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  1. #1
    steve45's Avatar
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    Plastic inline Hose Couplings for disconnecting fuel and oil hoses

    It seems like I've been working on my 'Skis a lot in the past year. Removing and installing hoses is a pain. I thought it sure would be easier if I could find couplings for the primer lines, oil supply line, fuel lines, etc. Here's what I found:

    Parker-Hannifin make some small hose couplings with and without valves. A coupling with a valve means that fluid won't drain out when you disconnect the hose--a good thing for fuel and oil lines.

    Here's a picture of what I'm going to try:



    I'm not going to put them into the individual oil lines, just the supply line coming from the tank. I'm moving my oil lines to the intake manifold (a la the 1100 DI design) so I will be able to remove the carbs without disconnecting them. A 1/8" coupling on the primer supply line, and 1/4" couplings on the fuel inlet and return lines and I can remove the carbs with little fuss (I'm not messing with the pulse line).

    I'm not doing the cooling lines, yet. They don't make the plastic fittings that large, I would have to go to more expensive metal fittings and I want to see how these work out first.
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  2. #2

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    I like that idea. Parker makes nice stuff. I assume those are rated OK for fuel use?
    If they work well for you I might steal your idea.

  3. #3
    steve45's Avatar
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    The bodies are fine, the nitrile O-rings will probably have to be replaced due to ethanol. That shouldn't be a problem, I'll just have to get them and determine the correct size to order.

    After I get everything installed and tested, I'll post part numbers and sources.

  4. #4

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    Good idea. I'll try it when you get the part #s. My winter project is rebuilding 2 ultras, 1 Yamaha 1100 wave Venture, and a 700 Wave Venture. All of them failed due to oil, but I got them dirt cheap. Failed oil lines on all of them except the 700 WV, which was a failed oil pump. I'm going premix on everything now. I'm going to premix 2 of my ultras while I have the engines apart. I'm going to put a drain line on the bottom of the rear cavity so I can remove the oil every so often and keep a check on how much is in it. I'll do the same to the front the same for draining purposes. We run 30wt motor oil in the gear cases on these 14-71 Pro-Mod superchargers and they have 2 gears and spin at 12,000 rpm with a load of 800 hp. Absolutely no problems except a leaking seal occasionally. I'll post pics on the conversion when I get started on it. I already have the check valves out and ready to start machining.


  5. #5
    steve45's Avatar
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    OK, here are the part numbers:

    PPM-122-2HB, 61517, 1/8" Hose Barb PPM Valved Nipple Each $4.95
    PPM-121-2HB, 60997, 1/8" Hose Barb PPM Valved Coupler Each $5.16
    PPL-252-4HB, 61549, 1/4" Hose Barb PPL Valved Nipple Each $5.08
    PPL-251-4HB, 61535, 1/4" Hose Barb PPL Valved Coupler Each $5.25
    PPL-254-6HB, 61554, 3/8" Hose Barb PPL Nonvalved Nipple Each $0.92
    PPL-253-6HB, 61540, 3/8" Hose Barb PPL Nonvalved Coupler Each $3.60

    The first number is the Parker-Hannifin part number, the second number is the item number for the vendor I purchased from--U.S. Plastic Corporation (www.usplastic.com). Pricing is what U.S. Plastic's price, you might find them cheaper elsewhere.

    As mentioned, Viton O-rings will likely be a better choice for the fuel and oil applications. I'll post sizes and sources for those when I get the fittings.

  6. #6

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    Thanks for the PNs.

  7. #7
    Thanks for links

    also....prof100...keep us posted on mods to ultra,I've thought before about making lines to add oil to counterbalancers,that way it could be converted to premix....without taking motor apart to add oil every now and then

  8. #8
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    Well, I finished overhauling the engine on one STX and took it to the lake yesterday. This is my first one with the quick couplings in the fuel system. It did not run very well. I went through the carbs, replaced all the O-rings, check pop-off pressures (all 15-17 PSI), new fuel lines, SeaDoo fuel filter with replaceable element, overhauled fuel pump, etc. Not really sure what the problem is. At first I thought it wasn't getting enough fuel, but when I gradually pulled the choke knob, it ran worse and worse. I re-plumbed my primer to the return line and never was able to draw fuel from it, even with the engine running. I thought that perhaps there was a blockage in the return line, perhaps I peeled the inside of the hose when installing it or something. When I got home, I was able to blow air from the return quick connector to the fuel tank. Not sure if the quick connect fittings are too restrictive or what's going on.

    I only ran it about 20 minutes. Going to take a look inside the cylinders tonight, then I'm going to rig up a bottle to feed fuel directly to the fuel rail see what happens.

    So, stay tuned! I'll try to get on the water next Saturday and report back with my findings.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Are those quick connect couplings you have in the fuel lines rated for sealing while under suction?

    Hoses between fuel tank and fuel pump inlet are not under pressure, they would have mild suction, correct?

  10. #10
    steve45's Avatar
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    I really don't know. The fuel filter was full, so it was drawing fuel from the tank. Something to consider, however.

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