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  1. #41

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    Thanks so much you guys you're all awesome. Got it back on the trailer today also had to rebuild that as well. Yeah the F-R lever is pretty solid can't move it at all, more work Found out from the grandson that the ski was serviced and put up for a while but not used. Hence the swapped fuel hoses i guess! DICK caused us all a shitload of thinking and unnecessary stress. Ok so back to the boat and the WD-40. Hopefully next post will be the all go one!!
    Cheers
    Wayne

  2. #42

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    Well that wasn't a happening. F-R cable seized solid at the back end. Had to make a long right angle spanner to undo the nut up the tunnel. Got it out and located a new cable $208.00 inc freight. Hope this will be the last expense

  3. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by old guys rule View Post
    Well that wasn't a happening. F-R cable seized solid at the back end. Had to make a long right angle spanner to undo the nut up the tunnel. Got it out and located a new cable $208.00 inc freight. Hope this will be the last expense
    Well being the scotch tight ass that i am i found the wobbly tube on the rear end of the cable was broken at the threaded bit and seized. after some wd-40 and some wiggling it freed up, yay!
    Cleaned it all up to find it is a brass tube so this is where the tight ass bit comes in, i soldered it back together and it worked fine !! Cancelled the new cable - saved 200$

    New issue - wanted to get the fuel gauge working, so read up on that in the stickies - good job D007! Pulled the sender again, checked the fuse on back side of the board - no resistance. did the same for the pink/black connections at the top of the board - no resistance . If the fuse was blown i would have an open circuit? Yes? So i think the sender is ok Float is ok also. I read you should have around 240 ohms across the pink/black. Where'd it all go? does it need to be in the fuel. (although i did test it before by probes in the wires with same result) Please tell me i don't have to go into the black box! I believe there is a fuse in there also for this unit. Would no power thru the system via the cut out switch cause this. It wont affect the ohm readings? Not an expert on electrics as you may have figured, but can generally get it in the end, bit stumped here tho. Anyone struck this problem before?. I need to replace the fuel gauge as the needle has dropped off but would like to have the system proven first. All comments gratefully received.
    Cheers
    Wayne

  4. #44
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    It is worthwhile to inspect inside the electrical box. Disconnect battery negative, then you can undo the screws and praise the box halves apart.

    You want to see zero corrosion inside and no moisture. If it is wet inside then further inspection is needed. There is a rim gasket/seal that must be undamaged and properly positioned.

    The wires are all color coded, as it the terminal board.

    If your model has a needle type fuel gauge (not the full digital display of the MFD) then there is probably a special LR module that provides a specific low voltage to the fuel sender. This is done so there will be no sparking inside the fuel tank even if the sender were to short or otherwise fail badly.

    IIRC the analog fuel gauge and fuel tank sender voltage is about 2.5 volts, but you can check the details via my signature links. Look for the attached text document that lists all the LR modules.

    Electrical diagram is also useful, have a look here.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guys rule View Post
    So i think the sender is ok Float is ok also. I read you should have around 240 ohms across the pink/black.
    Wayne
    The most likely problem is the fuel float. They are very known to not float in fuel. Note; they might float in water, but that is not the same-it needs to be tested in fuel. (it comes out the bottom of the tube)

    Make sure you are using the correct scale on your meter-the lowest should be like 200 ohm or 2K (2000).
    Full should read 33 ohms -empty should read 240 ohms. And you should be able to test it while out of the tank (hold it upside down for full reading) If still no reading-it's possible for the magnet to fall off the float.

    The 96-97 were a bit different as far as the gauge-had low voltage supplied to the gauge from a special LR module(the LR also fails). If you need a gauge,might look for a later model 12v gauge, I may have one.
    Last edited by K447; 03-10-2017 at 03:05 PM. Reason: 33 ohms = full

  6. #46
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    ... a later model 12v gauge ....
    As far as I know, all the in tank carburetor model fuel senders are powered by low voltage, none have 12 volts going into the actual fuel sender.

    For machines with a digital MFD display the low voltage was provided by the MFD itself. For the analog dials the low voltage comes from a special model of LR module.

    All of the Polaris fuel senders are electrically interchangeable. All provide 33 ohms resistance when fuel level is very high and 240 ohms when fuel level is very low.

    When inverting a sender to check for full/empty ohms comparison, sometimes when upside down the magnet+float part goes so high inside the aluminum tube that it passes all the internal sensors and reads empty (240 ohms). Tap it downhill slightly and it reads 33 ohms. Tricky, that.

  7. #47
    casey67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    As far as I know, all the in tank carburetor model fuel senders are powered by low voltage, none have 12 volts going into the actual fuel sender.

    For machines with a digital MFD display the low voltage was provided by the MFD itself. For the analog dials the low voltage comes from a special model of LR module.

    .
    I was refering to the gauge itself. The 96-97 model round fuel gauges received 2.5 volt from the LR-52.
    The later model, I think it was the Freedom used a round fuel gauge that was supplied 12volt fused. My point being if his guage (with needle arm off) needed to be replaced and if the LR had problems-use the later model guage with out needing the special LR.

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  9. #48

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    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    I was refering to the gauge itself. The 96-97 model round fuel gauges received 2.5 volt from the LR-52.
    The later model, I think it was the Freedom used a round fuel gauge that was supplied 12volt fused. My point being if his guage (with needle arm off) needed to be replaced and if the LR had problems-use the later model guage with out needing the special LR.
    Hi again guys I got out my new multi meter and lowered the range and there was the problem my el cheapo meter couldn't read that low. Anyhow, with the sender out i got 30 0hms at the top but only 105 ohms empty. Took the float out and placed it on the board and slid it up the board in stages and it had readings all the way. Is the 105 ohm reading an issue? Says in the sticky 240 or less. How much less before a problem?
    As for the gauge i found one on ALI EXPRESS with the 240/33 ohm range just a bit bigger in diameter is all no problem there tho. Will be about ten days wait.
    In the mean time i am checking thermostat and pop off thingy and the filter/strainer in the exhaust. Having a bit of bad weather here so cant get to it for long Centralized the steering a bit better too. Cable is a little stiff but i guess you don't want it real loose. I think i'll wait for the gauge before opening Pandoras box. All may be ok! Thanks again for the input y'all
    Cheers
    Wayne
    ps downloaded a copy of the manual. Thanks beerdart!!


    Edit : Having a think about this 105 ohms thing, this would appear to suggest that the tank on empty would be showing 1/2 full/emtpy on the gauge. Correct? Need to go play with the meter again i think!
    Last edited by old guys rule; 03-11-2017 at 08:18 PM.

  10. #49

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    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    The most likely problem is the fuel float. They are very known to not float in fuel. Note; they might float in water, but that is not the same-it needs to be tested in fuel. (it comes out the bottom of the tube)

    Make sure you are using the correct scale on your meter-the lowest should be like 200 ohm or 2K (2000).
    Full should read 33 ohms -empty should read 240 ohms. And you should be able to test it while out of the tank (hold it upside down for full reading) If still no reading-it's possible for the magnet to fall off the float.

    The 96-97 were a bit different as far as the gauge-had low voltage supplied to the gauge from a special LR module(the LR also fails). If you need a gauge,might look for a later model 12v gauge, I may have one.
    Hi Casey and K447, Have just received the new fuel gauge it is a KUS 12v -33-240 ohm unit. Before i cut the old one off i have a couple of queries:
    1. As it is a 12v gauge will it register properly with the 2.5v supply from the sender/system? or would i need to run a separate low amp fused wire from the kill switch. It is hard to check cos i think engine needs to be running.
    2. With only 105ohms for the empty reading will this cause the gauge to read 1/2 full or as the float (its good) is at the bottom will it just read empty anyway?

    Thanks guys
    Wayne


  11. #50
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    A new fuel gauge will not display correct tank fuel levels if the sender is not able to provide the entire range of 33 ohm through 240 ohm resistances. If the sender is not working correctly it must be repaired or replaced.

    Sender does not have a 'voltage' spec. It is a variable resistor device. The voltage feed to the sender is provided via the gauge itself.

    The gauge itself is connected to 12 volts and ground. On Polaris this would be Orange wire and black wire inside electrical box.

    The sender is also connected to black wire (ground) and to the sender terminal/wire of the gauge. The sender is never connected directly to 12 volt power.

    Do you have a link to the instructions for that KUS fuel gauge?

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