Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: 2000 gp1200r

  1. #1
    TX21's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    988
    +1
    7

    2000 gp1200r

    I did some searching and could not find what I was looking for. Got my first GPR this week and have to do a top end, carb rebuild, power valve motor check. Top end is easy I got that one no prob. Where is a good place to get the pistons? #3 cylinder head is dammaged from something (must have been another rebuild B4 I got it, no piston or cylinder dammage) do I need to replace the head? I know it will seal up and not touch the piston so why would I need to replace it? The carb rebuild is something I have never done but I am sure I can do that just have to make the pop off tester. Where can I get a good rebuild kit for all three carbs? And how do I prime the oil pump? I had a GTX RFI that I had to prime the pump so there was no air in the oil lines. I can't even see the oil pump on this boat. Oh and whats the best way to check the power valve motor? Just start her up and watch them move? Thanx for the help!


  2. #2
    TX21's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    988
    +1
    7
    Pulled the motor and noticed the loose lines to the oil pump also (heavy sucker ). What can I use in place of the stock ones so they last longer?

  3. #3
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    League City, Texas
    Posts
    16,066
    +1
    23

    GP1200R things to do

    * First off, welcome to the forum !

    * Look below in my signature where it says manuals and download a copy of the GP1200R Service Manual to your harddrive. This service manual will come in very handy as your do regular and preventative maintenance on your GPR.

    * I would personally install a block off plate and go pre-mix in lieu of the oil pump. The oil pump is on the front of the motors stator cover, which is located on the front of the motor.

    * As for the powervalve motor, if you see it cycling after the engine stops its working. If not, here is a test to check the servo motor.
    http://www.hydrotoys.com/gpr/tuners/.../motortest.jpg

    * You need to invest in Waveeater clip for the powervalves. The early model 66V motors have been known to drop a powervalves over the years. and looking at the age of your craft, I highly recommend it.
    Here they are:
    http://www.waveeaterproducts.com/

    * As for the carb rebuild kits, Carl at Island Racing sells them. If you don't feel like attempting it yourself, Carl & Jim's Performance both rebuild carbs with great results ! send off, get back, bolt on and GO !

    * On the pistons, you can buy OEM pistons or Pro-X pistons. LAsleeve sells them. So does Lynn Vick.

    * When replacing the pistons, pay careful attention to the cylinder size and order the correct piston. The cylinder size is stamped on top of the cylinder near the powervalve cover.

    * Here is a link that shows the size piston for the correct cylinder and OEM sizes
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...ht=piston+size

    * I would also install a new head gasket, and new intake manifold gaskets when you do the carbs concurrently when you do the top end.

    * Inspect the cylinder walls thoroughly when you do the top end.
    send us pics if you can.

    * When pulling a motor, don't use your back ! Invest in a 1 ton chainfall to help pull that sucka. They are very cheap and affordable at harborfreighttools.com and northerntools.com
    http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...70_18496_18496

  4. #4
    TX21's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    988
    +1
    7
    What a staggering ammount of info, thank you!
    Its going to take me a few hours to cover all of that but I am glad someone has this already in one spot. What mix do I run when I do the oil pump block off? Book says 30:1 but that seems a little rich. Also what about the head? I am going to have to get that 1 ton puller to put the motor back in. I am a little guy and by myself that thing is hard to take out!

  5. #5
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    League City, Texas
    Posts
    16,066
    +1
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by TX21 View Post
    What a staggering ammount of info, thank you!
    Its going to take me a few hours to cover all of that but I am glad someone has this already in one spot. What mix do I run when I do the oil pump block off? Book says 30:1 but that seems a little rich. Also what about the head? I am going to have to get that 1 ton puller to put the motor back in. I am a little guy and by myself that thing is hard to take out!
    When you pull the head, inspect it for any pits or cracks or stuff. post a pic or email it if you can.

    As for premix, most of us run Amsoil Interceptor at 40:1


  6. #6
    TX21's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    988
    +1
    7
    The head has dammage from something. Guess I just need to man up and replace it. Just didn't want to spend the cash. I'll get pics.

  7. #7
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    League City, Texas
    Posts
    16,066
    +1
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by TX21 View Post
    The head has dammage from something. Guess I just need to man up and replace it. Just didn't want to spend the cash. I'll get pics.

    hhmm.....

    yeah, send us pics.

  8. #8
    TX21's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    988
    +1
    7

    pics

    sheck em out
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0149.JPG 
Views:	105 
Size:	30.3 KB 
ID:	25410   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0147.JPG 
Views:	94 
Size:	42.5 KB 
ID:	25411  

  9. #9
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    League City, Texas
    Posts
    16,066
    +1
    23
    * uhm....just from looking at it the best I can......you possibly have a crank bearing that let go, from the size of the indentations on that head.

    * another possibility is the powervavel could have dropped and chipped a part of the top portion of that piston from the pic. It looks as if something "hung" on it and scraped/chipped it. This is common on the 66V motor to drop a powervalve.

    Also, what cylinders did they come from left to right ? is the #1 (front) piston on the left ?

  10. #10
    TX21's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    988
    +1
    7
    The damaged piston is #1 and the head dammage is #3. Must have been from another problem that has already been fixed.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Intermediate shaft from 2000 gp1200r
    By wademcgee in forum Yamaha Classifieds
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-24-2008, 08:14 PM
  2. 2000 gp1200r waverunner $3700
    By sheibels1440 in forum Yamaha Classifieds
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 06-24-2008, 04:28 PM
  3. Advice needed... buying a 2000 gp1200r...
    By jcc011185 in forum Yamaha Open Discussion
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 07-13-2007, 04:36 PM
  4. Price help on a 2000 GP1200R
    By flnsx in forum Yamaha Open Discussion
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 05-15-2007, 05:30 PM
  5. I need an oil pump for 2000 GP1200R
    By Robsauto2 in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 04-29-2007, 11:31 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •