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  1. #1
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    League City, Texas

    Fuel Baffle Sending Unit Repair !

    Well, I have had a gremlin on my 1998 GTI fuel system that has had me stumped for about 4 days now (electrical).

    I did some troubloeshooting and found that the fuel sending unit baffle had a blown fuse on the internal circuit board.
    This is a common problem on Sea-Doo's.
    Another common problem I ruled out was the fuel float getting fuel in it making it not float, but it was o.k.

    I was able to get access to a blueprint of the circuit board on the Sea-Doo fuel baffles and found there was a fuse that is on the circuit board to protect the board from surges.

    A member from & sent it to me.

    I know this is not RXP or RXT related, but I want to post pics on what I did to fix it and the repair I done to the fuel baffle by using the plastic welding process.

    This repair saved me over 150.00.

    The repair of welding plastic can be done on almost anything with the right tip on the soldering iron and patience.
    For this repair below, I used a plastic zip-tie to help seal the seam.
    A white Zip-tie would have matched better, but this is what I had on hand.

    For any of you that own sea-doo's and have the fuel guage stop reading, this is very common problem that occurs.

    Top 3 problems are:

    * fuel float full of fuel (very common)
    * blown F1 fuse on circuit board (very common)
    * bad connector on the sending unit plug (rare)
    * bad guage (possible)

    Once the repair was completed, I was able to obtain an OHM reading of 0.01 - 88.8 (empty-full).
    The bar graph on my meter also showed the graduation chage from empty to full as I tipped the baffle from up/down to simulate a fuel level change.

    First pic here, I used a Weller Soldering Iron to cut open a hole to get an internal view of the circuit board and the location of the F1 fuse near the top.

    Found the fuse and removed it by unsoldering it from its location.

    I then filled in the gap with solder where the F1 fuse use to be.

    I then use a clamp and proceed to close the flap I opened and begin the solder process.

    I begin to solder by using a Weller Soldering Iron with a plastic smearing/welding tip. This is included in all Weller Irons. I've this iron for over 15 years and this tip has come in handy several times for plastic repair.
    I used the plastic of the tube to begin the fusing process. I added more plastic by using a Zip-Tie to add more material to help cloe in the seam. Zip-Ties are perfect for making plastic repair weld jobs. It melts at the right rate and is straight like a welding rod for laying in place as you smear it over the seam.

    Here is the final job completed. I used 1 8" Zip Tie to complete this job.

    Here is what the complete fuel supply assembly looks like prior to disassembly. I highly advise you to remove all the grey fuel lines and replace them as the OEM Tempo fuel lines disintegrate and can plug our fuel filters and carbs.

    Last edited by RX951; 08-05-2008 at 10:36 AM.

  2. #2
    getting waterlogged hotrod_sxty8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Southern Illinois
    great write up, I just fixed the sender on my 97 GTX it had the same blown fuse problem.
    thanks for the tutorial!!!

  3. #3
    javiert99's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Jupiter, FL
    sweet! I'll give this a shot on mine, thanks!

  4. #4

    Thumbs up Problem: Gas gauge quit working on my Seadoo Challenger 2000 jetboat.

    Problem: Gas gauge quit working on my Seadoo Challenger 2000 jetboat.

    The sender unit looks the same but it is longer on a boat than on the post attached. The float on my sender unit is different too. It has 2 roller magnets that were in place. It did however have some gas in it so I drilled 2 small holes, emptied it and sealed it with melted wire tie. I do not think that this will make a difference at all but maybe it will read more accurate?

    The fix was the F1 fuse on the board that was blown. The red oil light on the gas gauge would flash on when the key was turned on but the gauge was dead on empty. Removing and reinstalling the sender unit was easy. Just mark the hoses accordingly to where you remove them. I used a sharpy and some masking tape to label each hose and marked the unit on the plastic accordingly.

    Once removed from the tank, the rubber coupler has to be removed by sliding it up and over the wires. We cut the unit open at the top side where the hoses are located on the side of the board that has the reed switches. We did not have to make the second cut as in the diagram attached. The F1 fuse was there and it gave an open reading. We removed it and soldered a piece of wire across it. After that we were able to get meter readings across the wire and when the float was slid up and down. There are 3 wires on the connector and only 2 are used so make sure you are monitoring the correct ones because before I jumped the fuse I did get a reading on 2 of the 3 wires but they were the wrong 2. We sealed the opening back up with melted wire tie.

    Re-installed on the tank and now the gauge reads. Yahoo!!! This is the link and thanks to RX951 for taking the time to post.

  5. #5

    2000 GTX Fuel gauge problem

    Thank you RX951,

    I have a 2000 GTX and the fuel gauge stopped working. Went into the dealership and asked how to check the gauge before I spent $150.00 on a sending only to find out it was the gauge. All the parts dealers will not allow returns of electrical parts. I took out the sending unit and opened up the tube per the pictures and sure enough the F1 fuse was blown. I took out the fuse, bridged it and it works perfectly. Thank you! Hope this helps someone else.

  6. #6
    1999 GTX Ltd. "Doo Knots" Doo-Knots's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Denison, TX

    Question Fuel Guage Not Working

    This is my first post since joining GHPF's, and I am a newB to ski's.
    My wife and I recently bought a 1999 Sea Doo GTX & 99-2000 XP.
    The fuel guage on each did not work, so this thread was of interest to me. We told our service man about the problem and he said that it was not worth fixing since the problem would just reoccur in about 45 hours. That's how many hours were on the ski's when we bought them.

    After reading the posts here, I still have some questions. Did the F1 fuse removal and bridge permanently solve the problem a year later? Do I need to spend some $$ to identify the problem:
    Top 3 problems are:

    * fuel float full of fuel (very common)
    * blown F1 fuse on circuit board (very common)
    * bad connector on the sending unit plug (rare)
    * bad guage (possible)

    It seems that this fuel guage problem is systemic across all brands of ski's. Is this the case, and has a manufacturer found a design solution or a service professional found an easier, less expensive fix?

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jul 2007

    All that work and still the TEMPO fuel lines

    The gray fuel lines have killed more seadoos than anything. Get them out of your boat before your carb filters plug up and you end up melting a piston...the expense of that is quite substantial...

  8. #8
    1996SLTX's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
    I tried this repair, but my problem turned out NOT to be the fuse but one of the wires. I cut open the baffle going after the fuse, bridged the gap that the fuse connects and no change in the ohms. Still showed an open circuit.

    So I did a continuity check from the plug to the board and one wire had no continuity. That turned out to be my problem and wasn't repairable.

    Bummer...anyone got a fuel baffle for a 96 GTX? PM me if you do...thanks!

  9. #9

    fuel guage

    Thanks For The Guys Have Been Awesome

  10. #10
    Does anybody know what size the fuse is on the circuit board?

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