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  1. #121
    wkuadam07's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by luna_azul View Post
    What are the symptoms of the fuse blown?

    I replaced my gray hoses and afterwards my fuel gauge was not moving..at all. No red LED telling me out of fuel. Nothing. So I assumed I pulled a wire someplace.
    Now, I think this fuse. Before I go pulling that dang baffle out, I want to know if this is the symptom of a blown fuse.

    It's a '97 GTX I believe. The Speedo hasn't worked since I bought it, but that's another problem. Related?

    Also, I'm not comfortable shorting the fuse. What would blow this fuse and is there danger of removing it?
    If you use a multimeter to ohm test between the 2 fuel gauge wires and get and open circuit, infinite resistance, the fuse is definitely bad. That is the best way to check it without pulling he baffle. Speedo problems are totally not related, the sender on the back of the ski goes bad on those, speedo is useless anyway...
    There is no danger eliminating this fuse at all, the fuse on the mpem will blow instead, it doesn't go bad from blowing, it goes bad from corrosion anyway. There is no danger whatsoever, evidence is that there are thousands of skis with this modification and no one has posted of a problem here even once...

  2. #122
    Yes I have done this repair many times. thx. But my problem is with the info gauge. Thanks for responding

  3. #123
    I have a question,

    I swapped over my grey fuel lines and pulled down my carbs for clean and inspection. At the same time, I pulled out the sending unit to inspect the fuel baffle sending unit as my gauge was not working either (1996 XP).

    As suspected, upon opening the fuse was blown. I proceeded to solder over the connection and reinstalled everything.

    Now when I push the start button to turn on the dash gauges my fuel gauge comes up showing 'full'. But my tank is currentky empty. I am also yet to start the ski and wont be for a little while yet.

    Does the gauge only show actual level of fuel in gas tank once the ski has been started? Should my gauge be not showing 'empty' now as it is in fact empty.

    I didn't have a working multi meter on me to check Ohms from empty to full.

  4. #124
    wkuadam07's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave_1357 View Post
    I have a question,

    I swapped over my grey fuel lines and pulled down my carbs for clean and inspection. At the same time, I pulled out the sending unit to inspect the fuel baffle sending unit as my gauge was not working either (1996 XP).

    As suspected, upon opening the fuse was blown. I proceeded to solder over the connection and reinstalled everything.

    Now when I push the start button to turn on the dash gauges my fuel gauge comes up showing 'full'. But my tank is currentky empty. I am also yet to start the ski and wont be for a little while yet.

    Does the gauge only show actual level of fuel in gas tank once the ski has been started? Should my gauge be not showing 'empty' now as it is in fact empty.

    I didn't have a working multi meter on me to check Ohms from empty to full.
    It should read correctly at all times, even before the engine is started. Any chance the float is wedged and stuck in the up position? Were the magnets in place on the float. With no float or no magnets on the float it might read full. Also.. are you absolutely sure that you didn't solder across "R1"? Because soldering across R1 instead of or in combination with soldering across F1 could cause that issue? A cheapy multimeter is invaluable for this task... you will have to spend the $8 to fix this one i would say...

  5. #125
    Thanks for the reply.

    I defiantly only soldered over F1 (the fuse closest to the top of the sender unit). I could see one of the resistors when I opened it up but or it only..

    I do have a good quality multimeter but just needs a battery. Today I will go get it sorted and pull the baffle out again and see what is going on..

    Dave

  6. #126
    Hi Everyone, purchased a 1999 GTX Limited and none of the gauges work at all? just starting on this project i checked the fuses in the fuse box and they are all good anyone have any ideas where or what to check next? If the fuse is bad like this post talks about would anything come on the gauges when powered up? i never seen them in working order so i do not know? thanks

  7. #127
    wkuadam07's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5starslarry View Post
    Hi Everyone, purchased a 1999 GTX Limited and none of the gauges work at all? just starting on this project i checked the fuses in the fuse box and they are all good anyone have any ideas where or what to check next? If the fuse is bad like this post talks about would anything come on the gauges when powered up? i never seen them in working order so i do not know? thanks
    This thread is only gas gauge issues. Your problem is much different. Your gauge is probably bad from water damage, or is working and you can't see it from sun damage... hard to say. Start a new thread for help on that one...

  8. #128
    Quote Originally Posted by Bpace07 View Post
    I did basically the same thing to my 97 GTi about 2 years ago, except I only cut out the top hole then de soldered the 2 solder joints then pulled the entire board out and replaced the fuse, its a .5 amp if I remember correctly. It helps to have 2 good soldering irons, one for each solder joint.
    Did you also have to drill out the the 2 rivets which look to be holding the board to the electric mounting posts leading up into the gray epoxy?

  9. #129
    Quote Originally Posted by gbh View Post
    Can anyone tell me how to remove the rubber boot off of the sending unit without removing the pink wires that are soldered to the sending unit. Also, how would one test the wire connection to the unit. I assume I could remove the heat shrink tubing where the wires connect to the sending unit and then test. Just trying to avoid a lot of extra soldering. The fuse is probably bad in my unit, but want to test the wires before I cut open the baffle.

    Should you ever have to perform this repair again on another ski... after cleaning up all the crud around the plastic housing (North of the rubber boot) with a small wired brass brush, I applied a couple drops of vegetable oil all around the top seem of the boot where it meets the plastic baffle... then gave the boot a slight clockwise/counter clockwise twist to better disperse the veg oil. After all that, the boot slid off really easy with no need for prying/pry tools...oh and don't forget to gently bend the sensor wires in towards baffle so the boot will slip past more easily by and not damage the sensor wires.


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