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  1. #61
    martincom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    You asking or telling?

    Black/Yellow wire is ignition kill signal. I don't think it would affect engine cranking.
    Asking, as defined by the question mark. I didn't think so, either. However, if he conducted the tests as I set forth, it did. It is literally the only thing we hadn't tried and as he hasn't had spark either, I'm still thinking the two issues are related. That is why I'm asking for confirmation.

  2. #62
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    To confirm, the only way the engine will turn over with the lanyard in is to have the yellow/black LR505 wire unhooked. There is still no spark though. I'm thinking it's not the LR505 as its brand new. Any thoughts on what it could be?

  3. #63

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    To test for ign. Sparks leave all wires connected normally , leave the blk /y wire from cdi disconnected make sure you have power + 12v running to r/pur wire of the CDI (test with meter supply line to r/pur. CDI + 12v to ground)
    make sure blk wire from mag stator is grounded all the way to grd bus bar in electrical box turn over and you should have sparks at plugs if not you have issues with stator or cdi cheers

  4. #64
    martincom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harsax13 View Post
    To confirm, the only way the engine will turn over with the lanyard in is to have the yellow/black LR505 wire unhooked. There is still no spark though. I'm thinking it's not the LR505 as its brand new. Any thoughts on what it could be?
    We have an issue being created on the black/yellow wire. For the time being, leave it disconnected from the LR505 module. Find the black/yellow wire at the CDI module and disconnect it. Do you have spark?

    Leaving it disconnected, connect an ohm meter between ground and the black/yellow wires from the harness side of the LR505 module and then the harness side of the CDI module. What is the resistance measurement with and without the lanyard in? Also, check for DC voltage.

  5. #65
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    With all other wires in place, i disconnected the Black/yellow from the CDI. It will turn over with the lanyard in, but still no spark. I checked ohms on the harness side of Black/yellow. Its was OL. The black/yellow comes in to dry box from harness and basically pig tales off one end goes to CDI, the other to LR505. If i unplug either the CDI or LR black/yellow, it will crank but still no spark. Im thinking its the CDI. Does anyone have one for sale? # 4010567? Thanks

  6. #66
    martincom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harsax13 View Post
    With all other wires in place, i disconnected the Black/yellow from the CDI. It will turn over with the lanyard in, but still no spark. I checked ohms on the harness side of Black/yellow. Its was OL. The black/yellow comes in to dry box from harness and basically pig tales off one end goes to CDI, the other to LR505. If i unplug either the CDI or LR black/yellow, it will crank but still no spark. Im thinking its the CDI. Does anyone have one for sale? # 4010567? Thanks
    It sure seems like that is where it is heading. I don't suppose you'd have a CDI in one of your others that you could swap in to verify this?

  7. #67
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    I do not. Almost everything around here is fuel injected. Does anyone have a spare I could test with? I would hate to spend $450 on eBay and not have the fix.

  8. #68

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    I would go back and recheck and double check the stator you said you swapped it out with one with different #,s 447 has said CDI,s rarely fail. use the 9v battery test to check the 3 ignition transistors in the stator .
    the other thing I would check to make sure the blk/w wire from the cdi runs to the ignition pack and is not grounded or you won't get ign. sparks
    Double check all other Ground wires Stator to engine case / engine case to dry box ( I ran an extra thick #8 to ground bus bar in dry box from engine block.)
    hope this helps get you going without to much more frustration Cheers
    bus bar to solinoid mount


  9. #69
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    I rechecked the stator. It looks like it failed the hull effect ohms test. The book calls for under 25 ohms on the red, green and blue wires when turning slowly by hand. I'm getting 107 ohms on each of the three wires. Is this telling the the stator is bad? When I replaced the stator it had a different part number. But it looked exactly the same. I think the stator never changed the "high start" update that polaris did. I think the high start only affects the flywheel and the CDI. Am I correct on that?

    Also, I just recently bolted down the starter solenoid. It was just hanging for all of this testing. I don't think that it needs to be grounded as it bolts to a plastic bracket that holds the dry box to hull. I just don't want to miss anything. Thanks.

  10. #70
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harsax13 View Post
    I rechecked the stator. It looks like it failed the hull effect ohms test. The book calls for under 25 ohms on the red, green and blue wires when turning slowly by hand. I'm getting 107 ohms on each of the three wires. Is this telling the the stator is bad?

    When I replaced the stator it had a different part number. But it looked exactly the same. I think the stator never changed the "high start" update that polaris did. I think the high start only affects the flywheel and the CDI. Am I correct on that?

    Also, I just recently bolted down the starter solenoid. It was just hanging for all of this testing. I don't think that it needs to be grounded as it bolts to a plastic bracket that holds the dry box to hull. I just don't want to miss anything. Thanks.
    Nope. The exact ohms number will vary if you are using a different model multimeter than the official Fluke model. The important thing is that the ohms number changes drastically from very high ohms to very low ohms as the trigger magnet passes the Hall Effect sensor.

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