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Thread: Fuel senser

  1. #1
    sussex
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    Fuel senser

    I have a 97 seadoo gti less then 50hrs Well my float is out in my gauge so no reading. when i'm in choppy water or high rpm the engine just nose dives and stalls out any suggestions spark plugs are good, oils good, it starts back up, sometimes it will takes a few tries.
    Last edited by code322; 05-23-2007 at 12:38 AM. Reason: added


  2. #2
    getting waterlogged hotrod_sxty8's Avatar
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    sounds like it might be the fuel filters getting clogged....I would start there, then while your at it check out the fuel lines themselves they get soft over time and turn gummy on the inside, I know the ones on my 97gtx are starting to get mushy so I'm going to end up changing them out soon...

  3. #3
    sussex
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    thank you i'll check them

  4. #4
    steach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by code322 View Post
    thank you i'll check them
    To test pull off a line and stick a screwdriver in the end. If you scrape off brown goo it's time to change them.

    Since you have to fish around in the tank you should doo the fuel system replace.

  5. #5
    steach's Avatar
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    Repost:
    You don't need the manual for this but it takes a while. Check the Mikuni site for explodes & rebuild info. http://www.mikuni.com/fs-carburetor.html


    To replace SeaDoo Tempo fuel lines:
    You will need 20' of Gates 1/4" fuel line and choke/carb cleaner (NAPA), a bag of Thomas & Betts Premium Ties (zip ties w/ SS inserts)

    I HATE Oetker clamps. Just pry under them a little and yank the line off.

    Remove the carbs. The filters are on the fuel-pump side of the carbs. The one on the PTO carb will be more clogged (the harder one to get to). If you did just clean the filters it would only last few tanks before clogging again.

    Take the fuel lines off one at a time; measure and cut new line, replace using stainless screw clamps or zip ties (especially the inter-carb lines as Iíve had a screw clamp interfere with the throttle linkage if aligned wrong). Work your way back to the fuel selector but donít attach yet. Clean and lube the fuel selector valve until full flow in each position. Attach lines.

    Most likely this crud in everywhere. I suggest emptying, & removing the gas tank for cleaning. If the fuel sender is not working there are probably parts sloshing around in the tank.

    Be sure to clean the carb bolts and apply synthetic grease to the shaft and threads when reinstalling.

  6. #6
    sussex
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    thanks yall i'll check the lines i'm starting on the driveshaft. the carbon ring cracked so i have to pull the driveshaft out. just got to the impeller then ran out of time monday i'll work on it again what a pain. the impeller looks shot so thinking of buying a stainless still one hopes it will last longer. i may be able to just file the edges. have to see once it's out

  7. #7
    sussex
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    well I tore a part the fuel system. i checked the water fuel seperator in the front and the fuel was a light brown color. i'm thinking it was bad. didn't realize it should be checked. there was also sedament in it. I cleaned it out. I took apart the fuel gauge just to be sure it wasnt that cause it sat in the rain a few times. i got a resestant with the ohm meter so I dont think its that. I attempted the connector plug for the fuel senser and didnt get any reading or the float didn't moved. not quite sure how that works.... I took the fuel baffle out. the bottom just snaped out. all the research i've done I thought it was a metal piece that was sauldered on to the plastic. but it is just a plastic cover that snapps on to the bottom of the baffle. must be an upgrade?.After i slipped the bottom piece off the float slid right out. it has two magnants on the plastic float they were covered in sedament. gummie stuff. I cleaned the magnants. i attempted to try the ohm metar but it failed the fuse was bad so tomorrow i'll try the conectors and see if the float moves not that the magnants are not covered . hopeually it will work. If its not the float i 'm not sure what else it could me. all the fuses are good thefuel lines are clean. I'm pretty confident it will work. wish me luck tomorrow i'm getting a new ohm meter.............

  8. #8
    getting waterlogged hotrod_sxty8's Avatar
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    If you don't get any readings with an ohm meter on the plug in on the sender check out RX951's sticky about fixing the blown internal fuse on the sending unit circuit board. I fixed my 97GTX's sender following his directions.
    hook your ohm meter in the plug in on the sender and see if you get a reading then turn the sender slightly upside down and see if the meter moves if it doesn't read the sticky.

    It took me less than an hour to fix mine.
    I also changed out all the fuel lines cleaned the carb screens and the ski runs great, now I need to rebuild the carbs I found a couple of holes in the diaphrams.

  9. #9
    sussex
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    thanks for your help!!!Well i'm not getting a reading with the ohm meter. so what is the f1 fuse what is it for?

  10. #10
    getting waterlogged hotrod_sxty8's Avatar
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    the F1 fuse is just to protect the circuit board from current surges.

    it's about 1/8th of an inch wide by 3/16 long. you can read RX951's post about repairing it he has some pretty good pictures of it and it's location on the fuel sender.

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