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  1. #61
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    If your good at gel then go for it. I have never done it but saw many that tried and it looked like sh*t.

  2. #62
    fixer's Avatar
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    If you go with gel be ready for a lot of sanding. That dump gun works well but you end up with an orange peel finish. I did the bottom of my 97' pro that way years ago..

  3. #63
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    What products and technique did you use? Did you use the Duratec gloss additive?

    I'm wondering if I could use the dump gun to get all the good thick initial layers on then come back with a HVLP spray gun for the final top coat with the Duratec would provide a good finish.

  4. #64
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    It's been too long to remember what product line I used but it sprayed out similar to paint but thicker. You won't get it flat with more layers just elbow grease...

  5. #65
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    Punch gelcoat dump gun or g100 dump gun into YouTube that will give you an idea of how it lays out

  6. #66
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Stripping the old paint off. Hope this shit works...

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  7. #67
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Shat, didn't work....

    Looks like I have fiberglass to gel to primer to red to black to white. Lots of sanding to come I guess...

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  8. #68
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    When paint remover doesn't work, you resort to the trusty heat gun and razor blades. This is going to be a long process....

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  9. #69
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    I spent some good quality time with my orbital sander and sanding block yesterday. After spending about 4 hours with the heat gun and a dozen razor blades, I was able to get the top layer of paint off leaving the grey primer. Under the primer is what seems to be a good layer of the original gel coat.

    I'm just about half way done with sanding as you can see in the pictures. For the repairs where there is bare wood, I'm thinking I'll lay some glass down to have some shape that I can dial in and true the hull. The parts in the front keel area where there is bare fiberglass I'll probably use West System 407 low density filler to get the shape and filling I want followed by a nice sealing layer of epoxy. The rest of the repairs where I don't use glass I'll be using West System 404, like where I need to do some repairs where the strake and transom meet.
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  10. #70
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    A bit of an update to this project. I have not been able to do too much over the last month or so due to the crappy weather we've been having here in Texas...be it ice or downpours. The sanding of the old paint took forever since I had to do it outside of my garage and on the driveway to keep from all the dust from getting everywhere in the garage in in the house. So now I'm finally done with the sanding and have the entire surface down to either the original gel coat or bare fiberglass.

    I am using West System 404 high density filler to repair all of these holes for the rivets used to hold the front splash guard and rub rails on. I plan on sanding down the repairs flush and re-drilling all the holes and using good quality rivets when I get to that point.

    There are several places where I have ground out cracks along the bonding flange that will require some fiberglass repair. The places where there is bare wood will have a layer or two of glass and resin laid to hopefully seal it up and resist any potential abrasions and bumps.

    I'm filling in the drain plug and will instead put it inside the pump tunnel since I plan on running trim tabs. The location of the stock drain is right smack in the way of the Hot Seat tabs I will be running.

    Once I finish the bodywork, I will bond the hull and top deck together with West System Six10 thickened epoxy....then it is gel coat time!
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