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  1. #1

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    MSX 150 won't start - buzz from the rear right

    My MSX 150 had been running good. Started on the first push, topped out at 7500 RPM/62ish on the speedometer.
    The last time I put it in the water it almost started on the first push. I pushed the start button again and all that happened was
    a buzzing sound at the right rear of the boat.

    I pulled it out of the water and removed the seat. The buzzing was coming from the starter solenoid next to the stainless steel computer box.
    My first thought was a low battery so I pulled it out and charged it for a couple of days. When I reinstalled the battery, the voltage was 13.6 volts.

    It made no difference. I thought I might be a bad starter solenoid so I installed a new one, all black plastic housing. The same buzzing sound.

    What could the problem be?

    I replaced the SIFB module with the after market version a few years ago.


    Thanks for the help,
    Clay

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    What is the battery voltage measurement (using a multi-meter) while you are pushing the start button?

  3. #3
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    Are you sure the buzzing isn't coming from the main relay?
    And yes, please check the battery voltage while cranking.

    Here is a thread with some generally related info:http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=188415

  4. #4
    Did you check the cable ends for corrosion?

  5. #5

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    The battery voltage (with the lanyard clipped on) was 11.9 volt - While pushing the starter, the voltage read 5.8 volts. (What should the voltage be when starting?)

    The voltage of the battery while disconnected is 12.3 volts.

    Cable ends are clean.

    Is the Main Relay the brown box to the rear of the stainless steel ECU? It has T-4 written on it? It didn't vibrate while pushing the start button.

    Thanks

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clay View Post
    The battery voltage (with the lanyard clipped on) was 11.9 volt -

    While pushing the starter, the voltage read 5.8 volts. (What should the voltage be when starting?)

    The voltage of the battery while disconnected is 12.3 volts.

    Cable ends are clean...
    Battery is likely no good, at all. Do not charge it, just replace it. Internally degraded.

    Once any ‘12 volt’ battery is discharged below about 10-11 volts while just sitting , it becomes internally degraded. Charging the battery afterwards does not fully reverse the damage. Leaving the battery sitting in a deeply discharged condition furthers the damage as time progresses.

    I recommend the Deka model ETX16, AGM type battery, made by East-Penn. Very robust internally, will not leak, no liquid acid. Strong starting power, long life when kept properly charged. Distinctive battery posts, recognizable as. Deka AGM even when sold under other brand names.

    A strong and well charged battery should deliver well over 12.0 volts while sitting (typically somewhere above 12.5), even with lanyard connected. When start button is pressed, a strong battery will hold the voltage at or above 11.0 volts even with the engine cranking.

    10.6 volts is considered the minimum for cranking voltage, and normally it should be higher.

    Tip: When discussing battery voltages, just a few tenths of a volt can matter. The difference between, say, 12.5 volts and 12.1 volts when just sitting can indicate a huge percentage change in the battery’s available power.

    When actually cranking the engine, measuring the battery voltage as 11.5 volts would indicate a very strong battery while 10.7 volts during cranking would indicate a weakened battery.

  7. #7

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    Thanks.

    I do have that battery. It's a ETX 16L with 275 cca. It is a few years old though. How long should they be expected to last and what can I do to maximize its life?

    That'll be a simple fix and par for the course it seems.
    The last time it had issues I replaced a few hard to reach parts with no success only to finally discover it was just bad plugs.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clay View Post
    ...

    I do have that battery. It's a ETX 16L with 275 cca. It is a few years old though. How long should they be expected to last and what can I do to maximize its life?
    ...
    Calendar age is only important if the battery is well cared for. If the battery is abused then it will not do well and will not last a long time. Well cared for, they can last for 3-5 years, I would say.

    Once a battery is getting up there in years, I will remove it from watercraft even if it is still starting the engine, and seems to be ‘still good’. Out on the water, a sudden battery failure can leave you stranded, perhaps with personal safety at risk. I will install a brand new Deka ETX battery (with install date marked) and use the removed (and still labeled) battery for something less critical, usually a land based application. Or set it aside as an emergency spare, should a friend’s machine need a strong while at my house.

    I have posted elsewhere regarding battery care. The core aspect is maintaining the battery right at 100% charge when it is not being used. Not overcharged, not even by a little. And not almost fully charged. Exactly 100%. The closer to spot on at 100% charged and holding, the longer the battery will tend to last.

    How to maintain a 100% charge? Use a high quality battery maintainer with the correct float voltage for your AGM battery. And that charger’s automatic float voltage should be temperature compensated if battery is being stored somewhere hotter or colder than ‘room temperature’. Leave it connected as much as possible when not using the watercraft, and especially while the battery is in storage.

    I use the BatteryMinder 2-4-8 amp charger with temperature sensor. I also have installed polarized (fused) pigtail connections to each watercraft battery. Makes it very easy to lift the seat, plug in the charger and let it manage the battery.


  9. #9

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    Thanks for battery tips.

    I have a battery shut-off switch installed on the negative terminal to prevent discharge during boating season.
    The computer will drain the battery in few weeks if not used regularly.

    Over the winter, I store the battery in the garage and charge it periodically with a Battery Tender. I also have a CTEK charger. Is one better than the other?

    Thanks again

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clay View Post
    ... I have a battery shut-off switch installed on the negative terminal to prevent discharge during boating season.
    The computer will drain the battery in few weeks if not used regularly.

    Over the winter, I store the battery in the garage and charge it periodically with a Battery Tender.

    I also have a CTEK
    charger. Is one better than the other?
    ...
    Do you leave the lanyard in place when the engine is not being used, like in storage?

    Those are brands, not charger models. Some models will have more advanced capabilities.

    If the charger is temperature compensated and automatically sets itself to the proper float voltage for the battery type you have, why not leave it connected all the time during storage?

    If you can store the battery in a cool indoor space such as a modestly heated basement, that is close to optimal. Especially with a float capable battery maintainer connected and AC powered all the time. If the garage temperatures swings (day/night/seasonal) are reasonable, that is also just fine.

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