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  1. #21
    Mpeavler's Avatar
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    Knowing you can get discs .. maybe I still will upgrade then .

  2. #22
    Vman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by moparguy View Post
    Thanks for the info, definetly going with the disc. I think I will just convert after I take delivery.
    Verify exactly what brake components Triton is providing on that trailer before You dive in.

    For example; My WC4 came equipped with some nice Kodiak calipers and rotors, but they are only 8" and on one axle only... they were never up to the job- still aren't.

    My Shorland'r double has bigger 10" rotors on it's single axle... nice- but the components are UFP and imo, junk. The surge actuator is UFP also, and that too is junk.

    The material itself dictates a big cost difference... take a look at the price difference in calipers and rotors (steel, coated steel, aluminum, stainless, etc).

    If I knew then what I know now, and had the option... I would have done as K447 stated and added my own brake components after buying the trailer without brakes. It would have saved me money in the long run.

  3. #23
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vman View Post
    ...

    The material itself dictates a big cost difference... take a look at the price difference in calipers and rotors (steel, coated steel, aluminum, stainless, etc).

    ...
    If I can, I will buy stainless steel disc brake rotors. The less things on the trailer than can even think about rusting, the better.

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  5. #24
    Vman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    If I can, I will buy stainless steel disc brake rotors. The less things on the trailer than can even think about rusting, the better.
    Calipers too... If You can swing the $$, or at least aluminum. Kodiak offers a Dacromet coating on many of it's components...

    Point is, if they are offering me junk or undersized brake components on my next trailer... I'm going to pass, take the money I save, and buy good stuff.

  6. #25
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vman View Post
    Verify exactly what brake components Triton is providing on that trailer before You dive in.

    For example; My WC4 came equipped with some nice Kodiak calipers and rotors, but they are only 8" and on one axle only... they were never up to the job- still aren't.

    My Shorland'r double has bigger 10" rotors on it's single axle... nice- but the components are UFP and imo, junk. The surge actuator is UFP also, and that too is junk.

    The material itself dictates a big cost difference... take a look at the price difference in calipers and rotors (steel, coated steel, aluminum, stainless, etc).

    If I knew then what I know now, and had the option... I would have done as K447 stated and added my own brake components after buying the trailer without brakes. It would have saved me money in the long run.
    The brakes on my 2-2 were rated for 3000lb per axle, so braking on one axle was plenty for a 2-place trailer. With modern skis weighing in at 1000lb full of fuel, brakes on just one axle for a 4-place were likely very overloaded.

    I've been very happy with mine. Hydraulic surge discs are simple, easy to maintain & very reliable...muche more so than electric. Never had any problems with them jerking or pulsing. After 8 years of saltwater use, everything still looked great last year when I tore it down to replace the pads & bearing.

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  7. #26

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    For comparisons, these guys have the Kodiak S/S 10" disc brake conversion kit for $576, includes rotors, brackets and calipers.
    http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/...l#.WmL0JGdhiHs

    Be advised, though, you will need the Master Cylinder for the disc brakes, also. The drum brake cylinder is metered differently and won't function properly. You'll also need to use the 5 pin (or 7 pin) plug that uses the backup light circuit to power a solenoid to disable the disc brakes when backing, as they will apply when backing up, unlike the drum brakes which won't.

    Aside from little things like that, the conversion is really easy. Did the drum to disc conversion on my tandem axle trailer in about 2 hours. The bleeding took the longest, and I have a power bleeder.

    Quote Originally Posted by moparguy View Post
    Thanks for the info, definetly going with the disc. I think I will just convert after I take delivery.

  8. #27
    moparguy's Avatar
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    You guys are awesome!!! Great info and insight as always from GH

  9. #28
    moparguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mpeavler View Post
    Wow Iím sooo glad I read this Tonight about this trailer . I was literally about to buy one in 2 weeks simply for brakes. Pulling both the dooís .., quick stopping is really hard on the trail blazer I pull with . Currently got the elite WC NOW and was considering selling it to get your trailer . Maybe Iíll just keep my fully decked out one and just go with it .

    M
    Once I pick it up I'll let you know my impressions of the WC2-2, I hope I wont be disappointed.

  10. #29
    moparguy's Avatar
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    Picked up trailer today, 200mile trip on the freeway with only the new TX on it. It tracked amazing, didnt even pull with the weight bias. Brakes worked great, definitely noticable difference in stopping. Overall very pleased with my purchase, only issue/concern I have. Is the aluminum walkway getting slippery.


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