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  1. #1

    Thank you to everyone at Green Hulk Performance Forums!

    Just wanted to say thank you to everyone here. I've been lurking for a long time, reading everything I could. I know absolutely nothing about working on PWC's ... really about working on anything. I've never even changed my oil (on my car that is).

    Last year, I bought my first PWC, a 2001 GP1200R with 50 some odd hours on it. I bought wave eaters, the couplers, and a D-plate after some reading. When I got to the point of getting ready to pull the stinger to do the D-plate, I saw that the cat temp sensor already had the plug ... it was already done (oops, guess I should've looked a little closer before ordering the parts). I did put on the wave eaters and couplers, though. It also had a free-flow exhaust when I bought it (which I don't really care for)

    Winter came and I started to read. I was happy with the ski overall, but it had horrible cavitation that really made it a pain to do anything other than go from 30-60 real fast.

    After all the reading, I decided to seal the pump shoe, add an R+D intake grate, ride plate, Solas 13/19 impeller, and do the jetworks mod. I also decided to replace the metal free-flow with PVC. This weekend, I got my opportunity to try it out.

    I printed out all of the how to's I could find (Thanks much to Cajun Dude and Fercho) and was on my way. Unfortunately, the waverunner is at our cabin and I left my battery at home, so I didn't actually get a chance to see if it started after all of the work I did ... oh well, 1 more week

    I'm going to attach some pictures here, and some questions and would appreciate some advice/suggestions (since I really don't know anything).

    I'll start with pictures of my Jetworks mod that I installed per Island Racings instructions


  2. #2
    With the Island racing instructions, the cooling outlet from the stinger is on top with a straight fitting instead of the 90 on the bottom. Carl had said previously he does all of his this way and it wouldn't make any difference. My concern after putting everything together is this:

    I'm in Wisconsin. Will I be able to get enough of the water out of the stinger at the end of the year so that it doesn't freeze up and cause a whole lot of problems?

    Second ... you can see in the pictures, the hoses get awfully close to the stinger .... will the stinger get hot enough that it could melt the hose? SHould I ziptie it away from the stinger?

    Third ... since I didn't bring my battery, I obviously haven't adjusted the jetworks valve yet. When adjusting it, it seems to open and close really easily ... what keeps it from adjusting open/closed once I get it set correctly?
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  3. #3
    My biggest problem came with the pump shoe. Its a little hard to see in the pictures, but I busted off the right rear bolt head when I was tightening. I also don't have a clue what I'm doing with caulk (as you can probably tell by looking at the pictures ).

    I used blue threadlocker (medium) on the bolt. What do you all recommend to get it out? Should I use and easy out? What would happen if I just left it?

    Does the caulk look ok (as in, will it cause me any problems)? Should I cut off some of the excess?
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  4. #4
    And my last 2 questions

    You can see from the previous pump shoe picture that there are gaps where the ride plate and pump shoe and also where the ride plate and hull meet up. Is this normal? Is it ok? Should I do anything about it?


    And number 2, you can see below that the pump shoe, at the bottom (angled sides are perfectly flush), sits about 1/8 inch lower than the ride plate. Is this ok? If not, what should I do?

    Once again, thank you all so much. I can't wait to get out and try this out!

    Dan
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    Last edited by rehr0001; 05-28-2007 at 10:45 PM.

  5. #5
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    Welcome Dan,
    sounds like you have some work to do for sure now.

    that broken bolt is not going to be fun, if you can't get a pair of vice grips on it.

    A tip on bolt tightning... if you are using loctite, then also use a torque wrench and properly tighten the bolt... but hey, sometimes they just snap!

    Yes, do not seal the gap between the rideplate and the pump shoe...unless you like to fly like a bird! those notches are no accident.

    yes, your rideplate should be higher up in the hull than the shoe.

    The stock stinger shouldn't get very hot.

    The jetworks valve is a spring operated rubber ball check valve. Spring tension keeps it from changing.

    There is a version out there that you twist to change the setting. Pretty much the two hoses that it attaches to, keeps it from changing.

    Check your PM's. I'll send you an important link.

    best of luck.

  6. #6
    Thanks for the reply and the PM Hydrotoys.

    I adjusted the valve and put it in this weekend .... WOW! Its like a completely different machine. Night and day difference between the crazy cavitation I used to have and now actually taking off when I hit the throttle.

    Unfortunately, I used a drill bit type extractor to try and get the bolt out and busted the sheath of the extractor off. I rode for about 2 hours and nothing was loose afterwards.

    What are the odds that something will go wrong without that bolt? What would you guys do?

    Would it be worthwhile just to get a new pump shoe insert, take out the old one, and put a new bolt into the new insert?

  7. #7
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    Can you get us a pic of the busted doohickey?

  8. #8
    mrbtd's Avatar
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    Sometimes you can simply drill the old bolt out. Just use a small bit down the center of the broken bolt (being VERY CAREFUL not to touch the existing threads) it crumbles out.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by rehr0001 View Post
    Thanks for the reply and the PM Hydrotoys.

    I adjusted the valve and put it in this weekend .... WOW! Its like a completely different machine. Night and day difference between the crazy cavitation I used to have and now actually taking off when I hit the throttle.

    Unfortunately, I used a drill bit type extractor to try and get the bolt out and busted the sheath of the extractor off. I rode for about 2 hours and nothing was loose afterwards.

    What are the odds that something will go wrong without that bolt? What would you guys do?

    Would it be worthwhile just to get a new pump shoe insert, take out the old one, and put a new bolt into the new insert?

    I dont think I would run it with a broken bolt in the pump shoe. I just had to replace a rideplate insert yesterday for the same reason (bolt broke off). If you take your time, drink some beer, and not get in a big hurry, its kinda fun.

  10. #10
    I don't have a picture right now. I'll get one this weekend if I can't get it fixed. I'm thinking about calling a local auto shop to see if they'll help me out. I did try to drill it out a little, and the thing is hard as hell and doesn't drill really at all.

    I noticed in another thread (and also looking at the service manual) that I should've added anti seize to the end of the drive shaft where it meets the intermediate shaft. I added anti seize to the impeller, but not to the other end. Should I pull the drive shaft again this week and add the anti seize or do you think I'll be ok leaving it?

    Once again, thanks all.

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