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  1. #1
    Site Admin Green Hulk's Avatar
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    The "GREEN HULK" fix for the GP1800 Intake Grate insert/hull cracking issue

    It's worth mentioning that there are literally tens of thousands of GP1800's running around out there and we've only seen a hand full of failures so it's not exactly an epidemic.

    My personal GP1800 is an 88+ mph ski and the hull showed no sign of cracking in this area, however I opted to do this fix as a preventative measure. It's always better to be safe than sorry. I recommend that anyone with a GP1800 modified to go faster than 80 mph do this fix also.

    The issue is that the lower hull is in two pieces which are bonded together. For whatever reason, Yamaha cut out that upper portion of the lower hull and put the intake grate Insert into this recessed area leaving only one layer of hull for support. As mentioned above, some skis have cracked in this weaker one layer area as shown here.




    This picture shows how the factory GP1800 insert is placed into this cut out portion of the hull




    The Green Hulk fix involves removing the stock inserts, filling in the recessed area with Epoxy Resin and Fibgerglass Matt and then using the old style FX SHO ride plate inserts. I want to give Bruce Clarkson over at RIVA Motorsports credit for sharing with me that the old style SHO Inserts can be used on the GP1800 to properly fix the hull cracking issue seen on some skis.

    This picture shows you how the factory FX SHO intake grate inserts extend over the recessed area giving you more structural integrity and support.




    Tip: To remove the stock inserts use a heat gun to break the glue down making the inserts easier to remove.
    What i did was protect the steering cable by wrapping it in a wet towel and used a heat gun on the inserts until the factory epoxy until it bubbled and smoked. I then threaded the old bolts in and gave them a couple light taps with a hammer from under the ski and the old inserts and glue came off in a single piece.

    Clean the area good and prepare to start laying the Epoxy Resin and Fiberglass Matt. I used a total of 4 pieces of fiberglass matt on each side to build up the recessed area flush with the surrounding area. It's best to lay the fiberglass matt on a piece of plastic, or some other flat surface and then soak it down with the Epoxy Resin. Lay each piece one at a time into the recessed area to build it up. Here's a picture of all the supplies that I used. The acetone was used for easy clean up of any drips.




    This is what the hull will look like once the Epoxy Resin/Fiberglass Matt is all cured.





    At this point you are ready to re drill the intake grate bolt holes from the bottom of the ski and then install the FX SHO inserts. I used 3M 5200 Fast Cure to seal the ride plate inserts to the hull. This image shows the FX SHO inserts in place. Tip: Temporarily bolt the intake grate up to hold the inserts in the proper position until the 3M 5200 cures (overnight)




    You will need longer bolts on the 4 rear grate bolts being the insert is sitting up higher than what it was before you built the recessed area up with Epoxy Resin/Fiberglass. You will need four M8 1.25 pitch bolts 50mm long. Also get 4 flat washers and 4 lock washers. I used blue loc tite on the threads of all bolts. This picture shows the stock bolt next to the longer stainless steel bolt. I got these stainless steel bolts and washers from my local hardware store.




    If you haven't already chosen which intake grate is best for you then I highly recommend you read this thread. Based off my personal Testing i choose to use the RIVA grate and pump seal kit on my GP1800
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=267008


    Be sure to use Permatex The Right Stuff to seal your intake grate. Here's a couple of pictures of the areas that I sealed mine.







    Tip: expect the Right Stuff sealant to ooze out and get messy once the grate is mounted up. Using some acetone on a rag makes quick and easy clean up of the sealant.

    To make things easy for everyone, I have added the FX SHO inserts here in the GreenHulk Store.

    Oversized GP1800 Intake Grate Inserts

    These oversized inserts fit in place of your factory GP1800 inserts and overlap the weak area of the hull. Fill in the empty area below the insert...
    2xF1G-U8571-00-00 $28.00





  2. #2
    Site Admin Green Hulk's Avatar
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    Another extra step you can take to help improve speed is to fill in the intake grate holes. I use JB Weld Stick. Don't worry, if you ever have to take the grate off for any reason you can use a small propane torch to heat up the JB Weld and it will pry out with a flathead screwdriver.

    I can tell you that on the Sea Doo skis, filling in the ride plate holes like this add's a proven 1 mph. You do NOT want to fill in the ride plate holes on your Yamaha though, as we frequently have to take the ride plate off. On the Doo's the ride plate is basically a permanent fixture.

    You can see the back intake grate holes are quite large. These increase drag slowing the ski down



    This is the product I used to fill them in



    Use enough of the JB Weld to build up a little dome, this way you can come back and sand it down flush.



    This is the finished product after sanding.





    Hope this thread has helped you guys! Please remember to support the GreenHulk Store for your parts needs. Use the discount code: greenhulk at checkout. It will save you 10% off the listed price of most RIVA and R&D Racing Products, all WORX Racing Products and all Solas impellers.

    Your business is appreciated!
    Jerry


  3. #3

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    Awesome thread. I wish someone would do a thread on shimming, sealing, mounting a ride plate.


  4. #4
    I like pipes. I love boost Mr. GP1800's Avatar
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    This should be a sticky. Simplest solution I have seen yet.


  5. #5
    Like a chimp with a ball-peen hammer smackwave's Avatar
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    Awesome info Jerry! Ordering the inserts now, I made my own backing plates over the winter but I like the idea of the closed thread caps much more for leak and corrosion reasons.

    My interpretation of "use a heat gun to break the glue down" was to wrap the steering cable in a wet towel and heat the factory epoxy until it bubbled and smoked. Threaded the old bolts in and gave them a couple light taps with a hammer from under the ski and the old inserts and glue came off in a single piece.

  6. #6
    Site Admin Green Hulk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smackwave View Post
    Awesome info Jerry! Ordering the inserts now, I made my own backing plates over the winter but I like the idea of the closed thread caps much more for leak and corrosion reasons.

    My interpretation of "use a heat gun to break the glue down" was to wrap the steering cable in a wet towel and heat the factory epoxy until it bubbled and smoked. Threaded the old bolts in and gave them a couple light taps with a hammer from under the ski and the old inserts and glue came off in a single piece.

    Yes, the closed end bolt inserts certainly prevent corrosion. And that's exactly how I got my factory inserts out. I will edit my original post to include your more useful information. Thank you sir!

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  8. #7
    Just bought the new inserts for my 2018 i got back in November.
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  9. #8
    I like pipes. I love boost Mr. GP1800's Avatar
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    I can’t have plain and boring looking brackets to make this repair
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  10. #9
    Did you cerakote? Looks good

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  12. #10
    I like pipes. I love boost Mr. GP1800's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BiG22DuBz View Post
    Did you cerakote? Looks good
    Powder coat

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