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  1. #1

    2002 Virage I Low Hours Loss of Spark

    I just bought this ski last Friday and it only had 36 hours. I took it out on Monday and rode for 1.5 hours. I got home, ran and flushed the motor, and put the ski away. Yesterday afternoon, I wanted to crank it for a few seconds before I took it out. It tried to start about 3 times and then only turned the engine over as if loss of fuel or ignition. I pulled the plugs because I thought I had flooded the engine. I cleaned the plugs and grounded the plugs against a head bolt. There is no indication of firing when turning the motor over.

    The lanyard is in place so it is not killing the engine. I have disconnected the TPS (as I read in the forum) and still no change (hooked TPS back up). I left the battery on charge all night, tried my battery jump box, and battery charger... verified good battery voltage and no change.

    My biggest problem here is I have no user documentation and I am a drag racer so 2 stroke engines and their electrical systems are a bit new. I did find the Ficht Engine Management Module and stator under the front but am not sure of the exact location of the CDI but believe it to be with the EMM.

    It appears that the fuel system is functioning because the plugs are getting wet when it is turning over but just no spark. I checked one plug wire and had resistance of 500 ohms and another had 4,000 ohms (from where the spark plug would go and over to a head bolt). Those two readings don't make a whole lot of sense (as they should be almost the same) but was where I have started. I haven't performed any checks on the coil, CDI, or EMM yet and was only able to get the EMM partially out only to have extreme difficulty getting the cover screws to come off (so I quite before I stripped them)!!

    At this point, I have put everything back the way it was. I'm a little frustrated but I believe this has to be a simple problem. Anybody have any ideas and/or pictures or technical documents for this ski? I would like to try my best before I give up and pay someone to do something that I could do myself.

    Thanks


  2. #2
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Charge or replace the battery. Even though it cranks the engine there is probably not enough current left to fire the PVL ignition system.
    You can try a good known battery or a jumper box and see if she gets spark and/or starts.

    Good Luck and let us know what you find.

    Oh and WELCOME to the Green Hulk Forums!!!

  3. #3
    axgrider73's Avatar
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    I have a manual for this ski and can post pages if you can tell me exactly what you need.

  4. #4
    Thanks for the welcome guys!

    Yesterday, I tried the jump box and no change. I also tried my battery charger on one of the higher amp settings (not 200 amp engine start) and nothing. I charged the battery overnight with the 2 amp charge and it reads about 11.9 or 12 volts before you try to start and goes down to about 10 when starting.

    I talked to the previous owner and he just replaced the plugs before he sold it to me. I know you are supposed to have a resistive plug and one of the proper index. This is what is in it now are NGK PZFR6H. Once again, the plugs are wet which tells me that the ECM or EMM is still working at least from the fuel side. Can anyone verify if these are the proper plugs. I had an issue with NGK's in my race truck once where they would stop firing and I swapped to Autolite's and the problem stopped. I was taking header tube temps and found tubes with significantly lower temperatures which lead to me pulling the plugs and discovering that they would stop firing.

    Could you get some images of the electrical system schematics and system component locations. I know where the ECM or EMM is located but where exactly is the CDI. This is my first week with the ski so I'm getting accustomed to the terminology and component locations. This is a big step for me from my 430 ci small block with an 1150 carburator.

    Thanks for the quick responses. Do ya'll have a good lead if it comes down to getting another CDI, etc?

  5. #5
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Do you have a good battery? Must be fully charged and be at least 10.6 vdc while cranking your unit (measured at battery). A bad battery will drive even the best techs nuts. Charge and load check them when you have a no spark condition. Make sure they have fluid in them or they will die like us. . Usually you will see a spark when you let off the start button if the battery is weak

    Reed this section.
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15437


  6. #6
    axgrider73's Avatar
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    Here is some. More to come. Let us know if this helps.
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  7. #7
    axgrider73's Avatar
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    Specs including plug type. There are no pictures of the componants in the manual.
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  8. #8
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris_thames View Post
    Thanks for the welcome guys!

    Yesterday, I tried the jump box and no change. I also tried my battery charger on one of the higher amp settings (not 200 amp engine start) and nothing. I charged the battery overnight with the 2 amp charge and it reads about 11.9 or 12 volts before you try to start and goes down to about 10 when starting.
    It just should not be less than 10.6. Have you also checked the ground and connections to the battery and engine/engine bed plate?
    The battery is critical, I can't tell you how mnay times the battery winds up being the trouble maker.

    I talked to the previous owner and he just replaced the plugs before he sold it to me. I know you are supposed to have a resistive plug and one of the proper index. This is what is in it now are NGK PZFR6H. Once again, the plugs are wet which tells me that the ECM or EMM is still working at least from the fuel side. Can anyone verify if these are the proper plugs. I had an issue with NGK's in my race truck once where they would stop firing and I swapped to Autolite's and the problem stopped. I was taking header tube temps and found tubes with significantly lower temperatures which lead to me pulling the plugs and discovering that they would stop firing.
    You can sign up at Polaris Industries and have access to their parts catalog and of course Jay at Atlantic Powersports has the look-up with prices.

    Could you get some images of the electrical system schematics and system component locations. I know where the ECM or EMM is located but where exactly is the CDI. This is my first week with the ski so I'm getting accustomed to the terminology and component locations. This is a big step for me from my 430 ci small block with an 1150 carburator.

    Thanks for the quick responses. Do ya'll have a good lead if it comes down to getting another CDI, etc?
    If you need some new parts, check with Atlantic Powersports and be sure to ask for your Green Hulk discount!!
    .

  9. #9
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    WOW, you guys are like lightning!!

  10. #10
    I just read through the first (2) JPG's and I went straight for the obvious: lanyard (kill switch). I do not have 12V from the black/yellow to the black or from the black/yellow to a head bolt. What is the flow path to the kill switch.

    I'm also recharging my jump box and battery to make sure they are both at 100% before any future starting attempts. I want to make sure that battery is eliminated for sure.

    As far as the battery, I did find the negative loose yesterday. A high temperature at the negative gave it away as that incresed the resistance and caused the heat. I have verified that all battery connections are tight sense and I have been looking for loose wires, etc.

    Thanks for all the help!!

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