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  1. #1

    1998 Kawasaki STX 1100 engine Removal/installation

    Good afternoon everyone,

    I am about to start working on my 1998 Kawasaki 1100 STX. I have a good engine in a bad hull, and a bad engine in a great hull. All electronics work on both. My plan is to obviously, pull the bad engine, and replace it with the good one. I was looking for any pointers or advice anyone has on this. Should I buy a gasket kit? Is it necessary? Will I actually have to tear anything down on the engine? Pull the intake and exhaust to get the block out? Or is it possible to leave it mostly intact and have it lifted out/ dropped in? Thanks in advance.

    Side note: I found a good write up on SBT on Removal and reinstalling but it seemed to have a little too much information because itís going from an old one to a brand new factory engine. But again, any help is appreciated.

  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
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    A few thing to consider, Caleb:

    The exhaust and carbs have to come off. You can leave the intake manifold on.

    Yes, I'd install new gaskets on the exhaust. Do you have the factory rubber coated carb gaskets? If so, you can re-use them.

    If your running oil injection, by all means replace the bearings on the oil pump drive coupling.

    While you've got the engine out, it's an ideal time to replace the driveshaft bearing holder, as well as the starter.

  3. #3
    Do do Recommend pre-mix or oil injected? The blown engine was oil injected, it busted a hose and blew the engine. The good engine has been on premix. And Iím unsure about the carb gasket. Iíll have to pull and check.

    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    A few thing to consider, Caleb:

    The exhaust and carbs have to come off. You can leave the intake manifold on.

    Yes, I'd install new gaskets on the exhaust. Do you have the factory rubber coated carb gaskets? If so, you can re-use them.

    If your running oil injection, by all means replace the bearings on the oil pump drive coupling.

    While you've got the engine out, it's an ideal time to replace the driveshaft bearing holder, as well as the starter.

  4. #4
    steve45's Avatar
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    I prefer oil injection. The oil pump is the most reliable part on the boat, it's the hoses that cause problems. Also, you the 1100 engine, the oil pump drive coupling bearings are failure prone. They should probably be changed every 2-3 seasons. The hoses should be replaced with polyurethane hose and secured with .025" stainless steel safety wire, two wraps and twist the ends of the wires together.

    The problem with pre-mix is that if a carb gets plugged up, you get no oil (in addition to no fuel). With ethanol in the fuel these days, the problem of plugged carbs has escalated. I ran my oil lines into the top section of the carbs to provide oil if the carbs get plugged (like Yamaha). If you do this, you have to install pop-off valves in the lines to keep them from flowing all the time.


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