Thread: DIY - Fuel System Cleaning
06-01-2007, 05:41 PM #1
DIY - Fuel System Cleaning
If you have an older Seadoo with grey Tempo fuel lines (pre 2001) they need to be changed!
The primary symptom is the ski runs fine on the trailer but bogs when it’s under load.
You don't need the manual for this but it takes a while. Check the Mikuni site for explodes & rebuild info. http://www.mikuni.com/fs-carburetor.html
To replace SeaDoo Tempo fuel lines.
You will need:
20' of Gates Non Fuel Injection 1/4" fuel line(for a 951 you need 5’ of ¼” and 15’ of 5/16”) (NAPA)
25 stainless screw clamps or a bag of Thomas & Betts Premium Ties (zip ties w/ SS inserts) (NOT at HomeDep anymore)
Note: SD uses Oetker clamps. To remove them just pry under them a little and yank the line off.
There are small fuel filters in each carburetor.
Remove the carbs. The filters are on the fuel-pump side of the carbs. The one on the PTO carb will be more clogged (the harder one to get to). -If you just clean the filters without replacing the fuel line it will only last few tanks before clogging again.
Take the fuel lines off one at a time; measure and cut new line, replace using stainless screw clamps or zip ties (especially the inter-carb lines as I’ve had a screw clamp interfere with the throttle linkage if aligned wrong). Work your way back to the fuel selector but don’t attach yet. Clean and lube the fuel selector valve until it flows fully in each position. Attach lines.
Most likely this crud in everywhere. I suggest emptying, & removing the gas tank for cleaning. If the fuel sender is not working there are probably parts sloshing around in the tank.
Be sure to clean the carb bolts and apply synthetic grease to the shaft and threads when reinstalling.
Please add any addt'l tips.
Last edited by beerdart; 02-14-2012 at 09:51 PM.
07-17-2008, 08:06 PM #2
Bump for topic. I'm sure someone can add to this.
07-17-2008, 10:16 PM #3
I also check the tank vent check valve, clean the fuel strainer screen and replace the rubber gasket on the strainer cartridge under the hood. Change the pulse line from the fuel pump to the crankcase while you're at it.
07-17-2008, 10:27 PM #4
The proper size for 951 skis is 5/16 not 3/8.
Also the 97 XP & the 98-99 SPX also used 5/16 fuel line for delivery side & 1/4 inch on return line & line on carbs.
All other skis use 1/4 fuel line.
Tempo fuel line was used on all skis from 1994 thru 2002.
Last edited by water worx; 07-17-2008 at 10:34 PM.
07-18-2008, 01:04 PM #5
- Join Date
- May 2006
- Schenectady, Ny
Mikuni Super BN internal filter screen housings can be cleaned with a Q-tip rolled smaller than normal diameter dipped in Acetone. once the bulk of the gunk is out, shoot them or shake them with alcohol to finish. No need to buy new ones at $8 each or whateveer. i've cleaned at least 100 of them in my life.
if you want a quicker method, take two pill bottles, fill one with acetone, the other with alcohol. shake the filters in the acetone one for about 30 seconds. remove and shake them for 10 seconds in the alcohol. they will come out spic and span. you can only clean at most 4 to 6 filters with this method before the solvents are fully tainted, so i stick with the Q tips cuz you use less solvent and can toss them out. take sabout 3 qtip per filter, give or take, depending on how crapped up they are. i like the kind with the wood stick and cotton on the end. they fit right in there and you can twist them to aggitate the gunk. don't worry, the screen is very robust and will take a beating.
Last edited by The Wayniac; 07-18-2008 at 01:06 PM.
08-13-2008, 06:24 PM #6
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
Is this fuel line problem true for the Rxi motors as well I have a 2000 gtx Rxi that is booging under load ran great last year this week was first time out and runs terrible no other changes in the set up...Thanks Jim
Is there any other common problems that could cause this condition?
Last edited by Itsonlymoney; 08-13-2008 at 08:51 PM. Reason: Wrong engine type
08-24-2008, 09:06 AM #7
09-02-2008, 04:36 PM #8
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Warner Robins, GA Home of the 2007 All-Star Little League World Champions!
I just did my cousin's 96 XP this weekend so I'll add why it's fresh in my mind.
Get a large can of carb cleaner. I used this to clean the internal filter screens...it can clean one in about 30 seconds.
Here's detail tricks on the carbs: Remove the cover, diaphram, and check valve block over the jets. Spray carb cleaner into the pilot jet, with the tube connected on the carb cleaner can. Look into the carb throat, and you'll see three microscopic holes and one larger one off to the right that has carb cleaner coming out when you spray. After spraying initially, get someone else to slip their finger over the large hole to increase pressure to the three small holes. You will actually see the streams getting larger as the cleaner cleans out the varnish in the holes. This step is critical, if you want to have crisp throttle response on the bottom end.
Spray carb cleaner into the main jet too, but don't look into the carb while doing it unless you want it in your eyes!
Make sure you spray carb cleaner through the hose barbs, in and out. Remove the needles to get good flow through the inlet barbs.
Synchronize your carbs! 90% of the time one butterfly opens more than the other, reducing performance, max rpms, throttle response, and fuel efficiency. Use a flashlight, and lay an inspection mirror in the carb throat. Open the throttle wide open, and visually line it up with the atomizer. Then check the other butterfly the same way. Zip-tying the throttle to the grip keeping it wide open makes it easier. Use 2-8mm open-end wrenches to break loose the locknuts on the coupler between the carbs and rotate accordingly to get the butterflies the same position.
09-06-2008, 10:11 PM #9
Good thread.....some crap i found in my fuel system before changing EVERYTHING!!!
04-21-2009, 11:03 PM #10
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