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  1. #1
    Red Devil's Avatar
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    Question for "Dynotune" users

    Not quite sure if this is an issue and I hope this isn't to confusing to understand. When I first installed my Dynotune A/F gauge and put in the lanyard it would read 0.00 and then go to 19.9 after about 30 seconds, with the ski not running, just the lanyard in. Then when I would hit the start button I would idle around 11.7. Now, whenever I put the lanyard in before starting, the LED reads -0.08 and then goes to 19.2 after 30 seconds, again, without starting the engine. But now when I start the engine I am idling 10.9. It is almost like it is not calibrated correctly when started because if you add the 0.08 difference I would be at 11.7 with the engine started. I should not have to be adding numbers to an A/F ratio gauge for accuracy. I would like to know it is accurate when riding. Can someone try theirs and let me know their readings when the lanyard is first plugged in, and then what it changes to after if calibrates itself prior to starting?


  2. #2
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    initially it's 0.0 and the red LED is OFF...

    then mine is usually 20.0 when it calibrates itself... then i start it and it runs in the 11s...

    then if i turn the machine off it SLOWLY increases as the mixture disipates out of the exhaust

    the red switch and LED... i feel like they do nothing, but i dunno, lol

  3. #3
    Red Devil's Avatar
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    OK Steve, after lots of fooling around and even disconnecting the battery, removing the sensor, and recalibrating, nothing seemed to work. These numbers just did not make sense and I could only assume that my actual readings would have been off as well. Like you said, I know it used to read 19.9 or 20 with the lanyard in after 30 seconds. I did eventually and finally find a way to reset the display to read 19.9 though. After everything was back together and hooked back up, I was going to separate the blue wire and make it its own ground, but that still did not make sense even the the manual says to wire it this way. So, before doing this, I only disconnected the entire Dynotune ground wires and plugged it back up. Then, "Walla!" the display went right back to 19.9 and 20, just what I have been looking for. I just can't figure out why when I disconnected the battery from everything and then connected it back up, that this did not do the trick. I had to literally disconnect the ground while it was hooked up to the positive terminal. This is why I HATE electrical issues!!!! You can spend hours chasing a gremlin for something so damn simple.....
    Last edited by Red Devil; 06-03-2007 at 09:58 AM.

  4. #4
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    interesting...

    i didn't follow the directions on the grounds either... in our application it makes no sense... we only have like 2 ground locations, and ultimately they are connected to the exact same points, the block and the battery.... so all my grounds are on the battery in a hacked up temporary kinda way at the moment.

    glad u were able to get it reset and backing to the way it used to be

  5. #5

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    Seperate grounds are often needed when you are trying to measure low-level signals.

    You get small volt drops on the ground wires as various loads switch on and off. These normally don't make any difference UNLESS you are trying to measure low levels when these volt drops CAN be significant compared with the signal you are trying to measure - they can mess your readings up in an apparently random manner.

    For this reason, manufacturers recommend you "star" connect all the grounds connected to sensitive equipment straight back to the battery, and don't share them with anything that can introduce even small volt drops.

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