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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Oklahoma City
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    Stumped on low power

    I hope somone can help. I have a 99 slx 1050 that I got 1.5 years ago. The MFD has never worked and it has never had any reasonable power, my 750 run circles around it. I have cleaned the carbs, compression checks. All is good. I read some threads about bypassing limp mode. When I disconnect the grey wire into my CDI box I cannot get the ski to start. Starts right up when I connect. Any ideas?


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Homer Glen Il.
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    +1
    109
    sounds like you might have a bad stator or cdi .

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Oklahoma City
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    8
    Any suggestions of which to start with. I have tried to read some of the threads on testing the stator with it installed using a 9v battery. Is it somewhat easy?

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Beaver Falls, PA
    Posts
    281
    that model year uses a tan or light brokwn wire the wire you are unplugging is for the hall effects in the stator thus no start.

  5. #5
    What rpm will it rev to? Does it seem like it is hitting a rev limiter? I would disconnect the temp sensor and verify you have open resistance from the tan wire to ground.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Beaver Falls, PA
    Posts
    281
    it should go to 6800 then start to hard limit to 7200. Other wise it is 4500 rpms for the temp,fuel and oil limiter. PS disconnect the tan on the cdi and see if it revs.

  7. #7
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Apr 2006
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    Campbell, Ca.
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    What he said ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^twice.
    What happens when it's disabled?
    Remember you still need to solve the problem, disabling the wire is not the solution and should be used for testing only.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Oklahoma City
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    8
    Thanks all. Sorry i was away from my computer for a while. I also read some threads that it might be the tan wire also. Result was no different. It is tough to speculate the actual RPMs due to no MFD, but I would speculated, relative to my other, that (dry) it is apx 4000. I any suggestions about a way to check spark output? I decreased my gap and it seemed to be somewhat better on reving but no different on power in the water. I am still using the origional CDI and stator, so I ordered the upgrade and should be in tomorrow. Even if it is the problem or not I dont want to get stranded once it does go out..... Since I ordered a new set I never went through the trouble of thesting the one I have in. Anybody have any experience with disconecting the Black/yellow out of the CDI the "disable all sensors"?

  9. #9
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Campbell, Ca.
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    So you bought it a year ago and its never run good?
    I think I'd check crank index and make sure you didn't buy a hydro-locked engine or anything of the sort first.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Oklahoma City
    Posts
    8
    Good idea! I will look in to that. The engine seems very smooth at idle so that NEVER crossed my mind. When I got it one of the Carb pieces was broken so I got a new one and thought I had got a deal. Just seems like I got someone elses neglected toy....

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