Thread: Need GP1300 Troubleshooting Help
06-17-2007, 07:28 AM #1
Need GP1300 Troubleshooting Help
My 2003 GP1300 is sitting in the yard staring at me with a sad, sad look the last couple weeks. It wants to play but has a bad sickness. I just don't know what it is.
I've posted recently about this. Here's the deal. Bought it used, and it ran great for about 6 hours. All of a sudden it lost its umph. It will only go about 55 mph and just won't reach more than about 5500 rpm. I'm not a great mechanic, so I took it to a dealer.
They yanked the CAT, put in a D-plate, installed the bypass chip, and put on a new impeller. New plugs, some injector cleaner, compression good, good fuel pressure, all electronics tested ok. It cost me a thousand bucks, but if it gets me hauling ass again, fine.
It did not. The engine sounds smooth, but it simply won't go full speed. Feels like a kiddie ride. Then, the engine died. After about 5 cranks, it fired up, I took off, and the thing really hooked up! I was screaming on the water. Then it died again. When I tried cranking it again, it makes this horrible screaching sound.
As of now, I've been told that the screaching sound is something to do with the starter or the flywheel key (?). It also has a little water on the spark plugs. Not a good sign. I have never flipped it, and it doesn't appear that there is ever water in the hull.
Do you think there is any connection between the loss of power and this new starter screaching? Weird. Anyways, I'm bringing it to a mechanic Monday AM to see what they can find out. Ugg...ANY IDEAS???
06-17-2007, 09:49 PM #2
First problem sounds like the powervalves are not opening, second sounds like the bendix locked up. Both are easy enough to fix but may need some more details to properly diagnose.
Can you hear or see the powervalves cycle when the motor is turned off?
06-17-2007, 10:01 PM #3
We need to find this guy a mechanic in the Sacramento area before he get taken to the cleaners again by that dealership. $1000? Ouch.
The water on the plugs is NOT a good sign.... you might want to check your head gasket, that will give you a chance to look at the pistons and cylinders too. When the head gasket went out on the Crayola, I lost all of my "ooomph" too, just didn't have any punch. I had the worlds fastests GP800R, couldn't get much past 70.
06-17-2007, 10:22 PM #4
Duke's nailed it about the starter. I just had to replace a bendix with a broken gear tooth that caused the starter to spin wildly and make an awful screeching sound. A good used bendix can be bought for well under $100, and any Yamaha bendix other than an old 500cc engine will work (really, many manufacturers share the same bendix). To replace it you need to lift the front of the engine and remove the flywheel cover, or just pull the engine. Given what the shop charged you for the last job to not fix your problem I'd find somebody else to do the work.
It may be water on your plugs, but if they're fouled (which could be causing the stalling and problem starting) gas will form drops on the plugs as well.
06-18-2007, 09:46 AM #5
Thanks for the replies,
First, yeah--$1,000 bucks. Really, you take $85/hr labor rate, plus the cost of all the parts...ugghh.
Anyways, the original Yamaha dealer I took it to said that the compression was just fine on all 3 cylinders. I don't know--maybe something has changed since that test.
The current mechanic I have chosen is a lot more knowledgeable (not just a moto mech!), and he is going to look at the Bendix/flywheel stuff today. If he can get that fixed, he can run the motor and re-check the compression. Hopefully, it's not a head gasket! Jeesh.
Here's the deal with the starter--most people say you have to yank the engine to really get to it. That translates into a lot of labor hours and $$$ for me. But this new guy says he thinks he can yank the starter without yanking the engine. Is this possible???
DUKE--as far as the powervalves cycling, I don't honestly know what to look/listen to on those, but I will have my mech. check that today.
I'll post this afternoon to let you know about my latest milking. Maybe some of you work in the personal loan business? Haha haaa...ugghh.
06-18-2007, 09:55 AM #6
You dont have to pull the engine to remove the starter. If I was working on it I would remove the engine to remove the bendix and flywheel. You have to pull all of the exhaust off to get the front cover off anyway, so all that is really left is a couple of cables, electrical connectors, and motor mount bolts to pull the entire engine. If you pull the engine you will get a very good look at everything and possibly be able to catch and little thing that might be causing your problem. While you are there go ahead and install the 3* key.
Just my .02
06-18-2007, 01:49 PM #7
Wow, thats a lot of money. I remember when I overheated my motor and killed some bearings and warped the head.
I got the motor taken apart and rebuilt, new rings, bearings, gaskets, and a new head for just under a grand from my local shop. Not a dealer btw.
06-19-2007, 03:58 AM #8
similar problems , yamaha could not resolve
i had a similar fault with my 06 gpr engine bogging down and not revving about 5000rpm , now and again and after each time it returned from the shop the problems was still there
try changing the fuel pump censor ,,,, it worked for me
06-19-2007, 06:23 AM #9
Well, yesterday's mechanic (Monday) said I have a shot crank shaft bearing. He turned the motor by hand and heard some grinding. It seems like this is consistent with the weird screaching sound when I try to start it. He's going to work me a quote today on a motor.
However, I've decided to take it to a shop down in Sacramento this morning for another opinion. This shop looks like it may be the place to go...They are exclusively PWC repair, they have a testing tank (nobody else in the whole area has one!) and they do a lot of their machine work in house.
All I can say is, when this guy tears the motor out, he better check every single possible thing while it's in pieces. Last thing I need is to drop another thousand and still have a broken bike.
I'll update this afternoon
06-19-2007, 06:57 AM #10
When the bendix locks in the drive position it will turn with the crank. The stator cover needs to be removed and the bendix inspected before a new motor is ordered.
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