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  1. #1

    GP 1200 Wont rev up past idle Please Help!

    I had a post a week ago about this problem. Now the ski will idle fine but will die as soon as I give any throttle at all. The fuel light is flashing but my tank is full. Now I rmoved the cover over the carbs and at idle can see fuel dripping into the front cylinder. But there is no fuel going to the other two cylinders??? The engine is brand new. Please help so I can actually go ride this thing.

    Thanks Curtis


  2. #2
    Flying Scotsman's Avatar
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    Sounds like more than one problem
    The fuel light flashing does not afect the performance of the ski.
    I would worry about geting it running then the fuel gauge.

  3. #3
    DAGO RACING CREW 97GPSLEEPER's Avatar
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    Have the carbs ever been rebuilt?

  4. #4
    I know that the light will not affect performance. I bought the ski with a brand new motor. So I don't know if the carbs were ever rebuilt. It seems that 2 cylinders aren't getting any fuel. Everything is brand new and clean. I just don't know where to go from here. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

    Thanks Curtis

  5. #5
    DAGO RACING CREW 97GPSLEEPER's Avatar
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    I would take the carbs off and look at the regulator side of the carbs. This side has a "R" stamped on them. There are 4 screws to unscrew. Be careful when unscrewing these 4 screws, they will most likely be tight and the heads will strip. Alot of times I have had to get someone to hold the carb while I take a hammer and tap the screwdriver handle as I am twisting the screwdriver. Once you get this plate with the "R" off, you will see the regulator diaphram. It is a round rubber diagphram. If the diaphram is not laying flat around the diameter of the diaphram, most likely the carbs have not been rebuilt in a while. Once you remove the diaphram you will see the needle and seat. You will see a spring under a control arm. The needle hangs on the control arm and fits down into a brass seat. Press down on the control arm on the spring side of the arm. The needle should lift up in the seat freely. You should not have to press hard at all to get the needle moving upwards. Do this a couple of times and make sure the needle moves up easy. If the needle is stuck in the seat this will keep fuel from entering the circuits of the carbs. If you go this far, you might as well remove the needle and seat and inspect the tip of the needle. The tip of the needle is rubber and it comes to a point. There may be a piece of the rubber tip broken off, blocking fuel from flowing through the hole in the seat. Go ahead and clean the regulator side of the carbs while your in there. Remove the seat to clean it and hit it with compressed air. You may have trash clogging the hole in the seat. I hope this finds your problem.
    Last edited by 97GPSLEEPER; 06-22-2007 at 02:05 PM.

  6. #6
    Thanks for the response. I guess I'll be wrenching instead of riding this weekend. Oh well there is plenty of summer left. Thanks againg and I will post my findings when I can start working on it.

    Thanks again Curtis

  7. #7
    cheatin' piston popper addicted's Avatar
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    Don't forget to take the fuel pump side of the carbs apart too. there is an internal fuel filter that should be checked while it's all apart, and alot of gaskets and diaphrams that could be leaking or creased. It actually sounds alot like the issue I was having. wound up finding creased check valves in the fuel pumps. also, don't forget to buy 3 carb kits so that you can install all new gaskets and such. Genuine mikuni is worth the extra $$.

  8. #8
    Flying Scotsman's Avatar
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    absolutely pull the carbs its cheap insurance

    Who put the motor in did they connect the fuel lines and pulse lines right.
    your not trying to fuel the carbs on the return side are you

    I would give yourself 2 hours to pull the carbs and inspect.
    If there bad it is easy to see.
    Bad carbs smoke motors so check them out and rebuild if needed it only takes a few hours.
    Take your time do it right.
    Dirty internall filters corrosion and check valves are easy to see.
    Replace your external fuel filter as well.
    You might be firing on 1 cylinder have you checked to see if you have spark at all 3 plugs.

    compression
    add ignition
    add fuel
    and timing

    if theres no air leaks it has to run its just an air pump.

    Scott..........

  9. #9
    Ok so the carbs are all ok. everything that you guys told me to check was good. Now just for th hell of it I pulled the 10 amp fuse and foud it to be broken! Could this have been my problem all along??? I'm having a hard time trying to find a new fuse. The 10 amp fuse at the auto parts store was a little longer than the one that was in there. My local powersports shop has none in stock. Does anyone know if this fuse could create this problem?

    Thanks again
    Curtis

  10. #10

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    You might want to change your fule filter also if you don't ever know when that's been done.

    Don't think that the fuse it your problem (heck, I didn't think that the the ski would run at all with the fuse blown?).

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