Thread: Waterbox mod.
05-24-2005, 04:07 PM #1
I completed the waterbox mod. If you dont have a machine shop it could be a big pain in butt. Luckily i got a hook up . I took it to a machine shop and was able to get the top cut off with a machine that would cut it real slow and leave a perfect cut so when it was welded back together tthere would be no leaks. Not that it was that difficult, just could be a real pain without all the right tools. I'll be testing it out this weekend.
Just a little insight for those that are thinking about this mod.
05-24-2005, 04:08 PM #2
Don't you also have to use special weld material to keep it from rusting out?
05-24-2005, 04:11 PM #3
I just used a regular old sawzall to cut mine open. It gave a very nice clean smooth cut and welded back together nicely.
Mike, the waterbox is aluminum.
05-24-2005, 04:59 PM #4
05-26-2005, 05:44 AM #5
Why not get rid of the entire baffle plate or drill 2.5 holes? Any benefit to leaving the exhaust outlet neck protruding into the waterbox or cutting it off flush with the inner wall? Is this what Mark Underwood suggested or something you came up with on your own?
05-26-2005, 09:40 AM #6
05-26-2005, 12:25 PM #7
I don't know why? This is the method that was suggested to me so I stuck with it.
05-28-2005, 05:01 PM #8
There is no noticable gains on doing this mod maybe a little more noise at low rpm.
05-29-2005, 03:34 PM #9
I actually used a hack saw to cut the top...a real man (stupid one), but I'm proud of the job I did.
As to performance gains, I think I noticed a little loss in acceleration which to me shows that there are gains to be made. Hence why the racing waterbox requires max mods to complement the low restriction. I think if you were to eliminate all the baffling with only Stage I or II mods you might be defeating some of the gains...so in long, I think those holes and other cuts in this free mod is great for the IC/ECU type mods.
05-29-2005, 06:14 PM #10
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