Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Chrisrokc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Oklahoma City, OK
    Posts
    3,667

    Exhaust Pipe Rubber Cooling Cover

    So today the damn thing on the back side slide out from under the hose clamp. I am talking about the cooling cover right before the section where you have the d-plate. The clamp was still good but the cover came out from under it. Almost sank my ski after a WOT run but I had enough water in the back I could tell a performance difference.

    Is there a fix for this?


  2. #2
    tighten the clamp.



    I know that sounds like a smart a$$ answer but I say it because I did the same thing. I reset the clamp and made sure it was on "properly" and made it nice and tight. NO more problems. Often the clamp isnt straight on the bottom side where you dont see and its cocked sideways which makes it feel tight. then when it straightens out its loose.

    If its truley tight and on straight, it wont go anywhere.

  3. #3
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    League City, Texas
    Posts
    16,066
    +1
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by Chrisrokc View Post
    So today the damn thing on the back side slide out from under the hose clamp. I am talking about the cooling cover right before the section where you have the d-plate. The clamp was still good but the cover came out from under it. Almost sank my ski after a WOT run but I had enough water in the back I could tell a performance difference.

    Is there a fix for this?

    I experienced this and almost sank my ski a few years ago also. (thanks for a BIlge pump )

    That rubber boot swells when it gets weak and swells more as it gets old. I had mine pull from under the clamps about a dozen times no matter how much I cleaned it with acetone/alchol ect.....

    The remedy for me was, I ordered a new rubber boot, "brand new" like 32.00 from boats.net or RIVA. This cured it !

    When I compared the new rubber boot to the original one, it was night/day. The old one was soft and pliable, the new one was very rigid.

    Another thing that can incur this problem is dual cooling. waay too much water pressure. But it loosk as if you have single OEM coolign supply.

    Do you have #3 or a "T" bypassing water out the back of the boat ? this helps reduce the water pressure in the cooling jacket (rubber boot) and helps take some of the pressure off the boot.

    Also make sure that boot is clocked correctly...and you don't have any pinch points in the boot.

  4. #4
    Like a chimp with a ball-peen hammer smackwave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    621
    +1
    22
    One thing I found out early on - do not tighten those clamps with a flathead screwdriver! Use a 7mm socket with your hand on the head of the ratchet and tighten until you have over an inch of clamp showing and it's fairly difficult to turn. Also, make sure the camp is over the grove in the stinger pipe and not crossing over the lip at the very end of the pipe. If the boot is isn't tight enough it will leak even if it doesn't come off. After getting burned the first time (fortunately only two bad check valves) I make a habit of running WOT with the seat off just to make sure everything's secure.

  5. #5
    Same thing happened to me this weekend .... I could run WOT, but out of the blue, the RPM's would just drop to around 6k, then right back up. I ran it with seat off and saw that it was spraying out just a bit of water occasionally at WOT. I felt, and its just like porksword said ... on the bottom side, I didn't have the clamp perfectly straight and the boot had moved back slightly.

  6. #6

    happened to me also

    The same thing happened to me last summer but before I found the problem it scuffed a piston and cylinder bad on the back cylinder....

  7. #7
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    League City, Texas
    Posts
    16,066
    +1
    23
    those boots see alot of pressure...off/on/off/on....and with age they get weaker.

    when I pad the old one on the work bench, it was all floppy and soft. the new one was rigid and much stiffer.

    I will say too, inspect the clamping surfaces well. clean the pipe and boot well.

  8. #8
    Chrisrokc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Oklahoma City, OK
    Posts
    3,667
    My Rubber thing is pretty hard to get on so I assume it is good. I mean it is a 2004 ski and all... Who knows though. But I noticed when I ran back with the seat off it looked a little fat after I fixed it on the water. Too much water pressure i thought?


    Only thing water wise I did was I did the jetworks fercho style with one change.

    I took the out water and put it with the out water from the top of the pipe so it would go out the oem spot.

    I guess I will tighten in and see what happens next time out. Just have the tool on me to fix it if needed.


    Oh yea, thank god for the bildge! Haha, how can I put a switch on that thing??

  9. #9
    Waveruiner pauladave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Clayton le Woods, North West England,UK.
    Posts
    409
    I had it happen on the XLT, but it was the bottom connector,as the pipe passes through the bulkhead, that seperated! I hadn't quite got the clamp square,and it caused the thing to seperate under pressure. Looked like the Queen Mary with all that steam and smoke coming out the hull! I agree with the tip about NOT using just a screwdriver to tighten clamps. I always wind 'em up with a socket. After you've stripped a couple, you get a feel for how tight they'll go!

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-22-2013, 09:49 AM
  2. How hot does the exhaust pipe get if there's a cooling issue?
    By xray328 in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-03-2012, 09:22 AM
  3. HOSS exhaust pipe
    By HOSS in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 63
    Last Post: 06-23-2006, 05:18 AM
  4. Wrapping/Insulating the exhaust piping
    By mgo7483 in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 10-07-2005, 01:36 PM
  5. Exhaust pipe problem?
    By kenshin89 in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 08-16-2005, 04:01 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •