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  1. #21
    African-American
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    Surely we are all working together to try advanced each others GPR's and improve on their few negative points, and better our enjoyment for the sport.

    I would say sportsmanship flourishes when we all contribute and share knowledge.

    Remember, Information is free, sooner or later.

    If you are worried about someone using YOUR knowledge, patent your ideas, and then take legal action against all of us, that try and better the sport or that use your perceived ideas to better our GPR's.

    Imagine if everyone had the same attitude. We would all be sitting with stock GPR's, or would we even have jetski's ?

    PLEASE NOTE: IM NOT DIRECTING THIS POST TO ANYONE.


  2. #22
    (if the valve leaks any at all. gets a little peice of stick, leaf or something. and they do leak after a while then the basic water pump rules apply and it will cavitate.)

    Yes that is one of the pitfalls of this system, debris will get caught in them just as it does everything else, just have to keep an eye on it.. These new jetworks valves have a ceramic ball in them so we will see how they hold up.. Time will tell..

  3. #23

    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Since the cat is out of the bag! I have been working on this idea for 2 years now. I use a 1 1/4 copper tee and solder different hose barbes in it. You have to grind it on both side to make it fit (to long) You remove the pump and install it inside the hull were the Gates rubber hose is. No drilling or taping.
    I have seen no gains but feel the floating feeling (lift). I install a one inch hose and it slowed the ski way down, too much is bad. The 1/2 inch works the best. The problem I have run into is the valve, it much close all the way or the prop spins on take off. I'm working on a 12 volt hyd valve now but lost interest with all the nice weekend we have here lately.
    Mike
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  4. #24
    Hypertoys's Avatar
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    Riegelwood,N.C.
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    [quote=rossnemo;323067](if the valve leaks any at all. gets a little peice of stick, leaf or something. and they do leak after a while then the basic water pump rules apply and it will cavitate.)

    I think it will be ok if you put the end of the exit hose at the bottom of pump against the rideplate ,so when going slow the end of the hose will be submerged in water.It should suck water not air and maybe even backwash valve.

    Or maybe even put a flap gate on the end of the exit hose.
    Last edited by Hypertoys; 06-25-2007 at 08:06 PM.

  5. #25
    This was the frist person who brought up this idea to me over a year ago. Great thinking Mike!!!.


    Fercho

    Quote Originally Posted by mikel70 View Post
    Since the cat is out of the bag! I have been working on this idea for 2 years now. I use a 1 1/4 copper tee and solder different hose barbes in it. You have to grind it on both side to make it fit (to long) You remove the pump and install it inside the hull were the Gates rubber hose is. No drilling or taping.
    I have seen no gains but feel the floating feeling (lift). I install a one inch hose and it slowed the ski way down, too much is bad. The 1/2 inch works the best. The problem I have run into is the valve, it much close all the way or the prop spins on take off. I'm working on a 12 volt hyd valve now but lost interest with all the nice weekend we have here lately.
    Mike

  6. #26
    YudLuz2's Avatar
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    Flowood MS
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    Hey Mike,
    I tried over a year to make it work on my setup. But
    no luck. Its a very good idea. I have tried many things
    but I always go back to what works and thats fine tunning
    your setup for the buck. I think 97 percent of the people should
    be able to work there setup out, without a buck. Thats figuring
    your not running over 85 or 86 mph. You should never think you
    have solved the buck, it could happen at anytime. Always prepare
    yourself on every high speed run that your ski might buck. Thats
    the best advice I can give anyone. I would never say this mod
    will 100% stop the buck. Because of eveyone runs a differnet setup.
    Be it ride plate angle, weight, riding postition, nozzle or prop to\name a few items. You can buy this peice for around .68 cents at any Lowe's
    hardware store. Just trim it like you did for a better fit.
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  7. #27
    Banned User
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    [QUOTE=Hypertoys;323309]
    Quote Originally Posted by rossnemo View Post
    (if the valve leaks any at all. gets a little peice of stick, leaf or something. and they do leak after a while then the basic water pump rules apply and it will cavitate.)

    I think it will be ok if you put the end of the exit hose at the bottom of pump against the rideplate ,so when going slow the end of the hose will be submerged in water.It should suck water not air and maybe even backwash valve.

    Or maybe even put a flap gate on the end of the exit hose.
    I thought of putting a hose down on the ride plate as well with a coil of hose inside the boat like a reserve tank to hold extra water for take off but most like to take off nose up slightly and the water would run out and suck air. My first idea was in the pump tunnel itself but alas I decided to just keep it simpel and get the best of both worlds.
    better hole shot
    better top speed
    proven over the years by the kawie since 1997
    no mantnince
    never seen them stop up
    although they were to big in the zxi and ultra.
    If the holes are to big you will loose speed.
    thats why 3 months of testing on 3 different boats was done to perfect the size angel ect. for no comprimise. for your ridding pleasure.

  8. #28
    Duke's Avatar
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    I can see your point about keeping it simple by going with this method. It is by far the most.

    Some people have actually gone so far as to use multiple
    12v valves set up in sequence as pressure builds. I have no desire to do anything that complex.

    There are a couple reasons for the path I chose. One being if the passage were ever to be clogged with debris it would only hold the valve open and effect holeshot being immediatly evident. If one of the holes gets clogged in the pump shoe you don't know until it bucks you off. Also I was trying to come up with a more general usage that could be taken advantage of from 75 to 95 mph. Wanted to futher explore restricting volume for the slower boats to maintain speed but just keep the overstuffing at bay.

    This method has been tested for several hundred miles in the shallow waters of the St. Johns and over 100 miles in the bayous around Morgan City even with the 1200 grate. Worked flawless and never got clogged.

    Wasn't trying to indicate there is only one way but quite the opposite. Ross was just showing his new mod and I applaud him for trying something new. Personally I do not feel there is any benefit to doing this unless you are at the mid/upper 70s and above but thats just my opinion.
    Last edited by Duke; 06-25-2007 at 10:24 PM.

  9. #29
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    Didn't we just go over this?
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...highlight=buck

    Also, I did get a stick stuck in mine in Morgan city. Easy to clean. No big deal. My holeshot was terrible with the stick in there.

    Works pretty good with a 1200 grate too. Not sure why Kerry says it doesn't.

  10. #30
    philip_gpr's Avatar
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    Great stuff - Ross if you wanted you could offer a kit with the required parts.

    I like the idea already mentioned where the exit water is routed down by the rideplate - simply add a piece of hose on the end of the Jetworks valve - this way if on takeoff it did try to suck air it would suck in water

    While similar in concept I don't like the idea of taking the pressure off the hose by the driveshaft - I hate having additional water lines etc inside the hull that could potentailly fail.

    I was running out of things to try, I now have something to play with this weekend!

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