Thread: Pro Bogs at WOT
06-30-2007, 09:28 AM #1
Pro Bogs at WOT
First let me say, a Pro 785 is one hell of a fast ski. Some may know I bought a 07 GTI for my g/f. After I drive that around awhile and jump on the Pro I just grab a fist full, and throw myself off. So use to the weak Doo, I forgot what power off the line is like.
To my problem. The problem only seems to start at WOT, it will start to bog down. I can be flying along and then it will lose power and bog. If I hold the throttle down it will keep bogging worse. If I let off the gas and hit it again it will bog. But if I idle around for a second all is good and it the problem goes away.
I was thinking a fuel problem, carbs maybe. But the plugs look great, brown tan color...same as they have looked since I owned it. I squeezed the fuel lines a bit to see if any felt swollen, they seem fine. Fuel on off switch seems alright, I pulled it out and looked at it. This was all just visually checking, nothing actually replaced.
While searching someone had this same problem and it was mentioned ehaust valves not opening all the way. I took my seat off and watched my valves. My middle one definitely moves more than the PTO and MAG at idle and until you WOT. At idle I'm not sure the front is really moving or just vibrating. When you WOT they all noticeably move, but the front the least, the back a little more than the front and the middle the most.
Maybe unrelated, but the HOT light sometimes comes on. Here is my theory, I could be way off. Maybe the valves get stuck or something and cause it to bog. The exhaust gas gets backed up and trips the hot light. Whenever the light comes on, I just gotta nail it, and if it doesn't bog and takes right off like it should, the light is gone. The gasses getting pushed out?
Sorry this is so long, but I know the more information I give the better. Can someone let me know how to check exhaust vavles full working? Or if I am way off track on my diagnoses? Or if the variance in each valve is normal? The middle definitely gets more action than the other two.
Last edited by antoniodef; 06-30-2007 at 09:35 AM.
06-30-2007, 09:41 AM #2
Open your upper screws a half turn and see if it gets better or worse.
06-30-2007, 09:57 AM #3
Will try that today, thanks.
07-01-2007, 06:51 PM #4
That didn't help. I am leaning towards my exhaust vavles not opening up. I rode it around for awhile with no seaton to watch it. It sounds like a banshee! People were staring like crazy cause it sounds like nascar around the lake.
What I noticed, is when my exhaust vavles were functioning properly I had no problems. No loss of power on top and accelerated like normal. I couldn't confirm when it would bog if they were not working, it's hard to look down and drive. What I could tell it seems, is the PTO and MAG seemed to be sticking when it bogs. I cannot confirm this 100%, I will have to watch them more when I go back out.
If anyone has any ideas, just chime in.
07-01-2007, 11:04 PM #5
do a search on here..there is a place(i think beerdart knows) on here that shows u how to unplug the actuator and apply power to it....to keep the valves open..then u can check rpm to see if you get all of it back.....
ps--a friend has my manual or i would tell u which wires to apply power too..to open the valves
07-05-2010, 09:36 PM #6
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Swanton VT
i have what seems to be the exact same problem, i just posted a thread on it, i will follow up, thanks
07-06-2010, 08:32 AM #7
That would be me that has that same problem. I tested the controller by splicing into the controller wires and making them move with a battery. either way you hook it up, they move.. then when in the water, they wont budge. maybe just vibrate a little.. Its the white with red stripe and the white with black stripe you hook up to a battery both ways to see if there moving.. although when in the water, its now under load and they dont work. someone said they should,,,but they dont..
Then you have to check the ohms when closed and open.. I think 1 is 850 and the other is 5000 ohms. if they dont have those values, the controller is bad.. or going bad.. Now I have no spark. Maybe its my stator.. ill have to check that too.. ugh! thank god my slt runs.
well at least im not the only one with this problem.. maybe we all can figure it out..
The cdi runs the controller. check all your wiring in the ebox to make sure your ground wires are tight and all is still hooked up properly.. let me know if you get it fixed correctly.. I need help on mine too.. they seem to work great when i power them up. in fact, i have a couple controller here and they both move when powered up by a battery..
BTW, a tan colored plug is lean. you want a chocolate brown color on the plug electrode.
PS.. I love the way it sounds with the seat off! It sounds exactly like a NHRA drag car! lol I had people staring at me while tuning too.lol It's like holy shit, what kind of motor do you have in there! lol
07-21-2010, 12:19 AM #8
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Swanton VT
was wondering if there were any results on the above 785 bogs at wot .... i have that as an intermittent problem now...my exaust actuator seems to be fine ???, , and yeah it sure howls when the seat it off!
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