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  1. #1
    stewartgpr's Avatar
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    best mods for rough water - gpr 1300

    Guys ,

    i have been following this site for some time now , you all have a wealth of knowladge and years of riding experince in differing conditions , i am seeking your "expert" ( some of you ) opinions to help me out

    i use my completely stock 2006 gpr1300 on the open ocean in the middle east , normal sea state is around 3 - 5 feet and the air temperature right now is around the 100 deg F

    i love to jump and play in the surf but would alsolove to have more accelaration even at the risk of top speed , we normaly never get flat water for high speed runs

    is there anyone out there that can recomend mods to give a better "punch" in the waves and any better handling in rough conditions would also be a bonus

    many thanks


  2. #2
    African-American
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    Get either the Skat-Trak 13/19 R Swirl Impellor or a Solas Dynafly 13/19 setback impellor.

    The Shred Master GPR "V" Ride Plate is the ultimate rough water ride plate.

    Do the following mods.

    Jetworks mod, D plate, remove the syphon, holshot helper (peice that covers hull overhang at the back of the ski, to prevent it from hooking)


    If you want even more bottom end punch:
    free flow exhaust, vforce3 reeds, youll also need to invest in a riva/advent/r&d ECU.

  3. #3
    Duke's Avatar
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    A few things for better hookup for a stock GPR would be a Riva 1200 intake grate, extended R&D trim tabs, R&D pump plug kit (PPK), and reinforce the tunnel with a reinforcement kit from R&D.

    The stock impeller works great with an untouched motor. Most likely you need motor mods to push any of the aftermarket props in the conditions you described. The OEM rideplate is one of the best rough water plates too.

    Also I wouldn't remove the factory siphon if wave jumping is your primary goal.

  4. #4
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duke View Post
    A few things for better hookup for a stock GPR would be a Riva 1200 intake grate, extended R&D trim tabs, R&D pump plug kit (PPK), and reinforce the tunnel with a reinforcement kit from R&D.

    The stock impeller works great with an untouched motor. Most likely you need motor mods to push any of the aftermarket props in the conditions you described. The OEM rideplate is one of the best rough water plates too.

    Also I wouldn't remove the factory siphon if wave jumping is your primary goal.
    +1

    Also if you are jumping alot, you may want to secure the seat latch. It could be a big problem if the seat comes off in a vertical landing.

  5. #5
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum Stewart !

  6. #6
    African-American
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    well the stock syphon pipe is useless if you have a decent always on or automatic bildge pump.


    For surf riding the first 3 seconds of throttle is all that counts (so you need as much punch from the hole as possible).

    I agree with the reinforcement and extended tabs, but disgree with the stock impellor, its useless compared to a Skat-Trak 13/19 R Swirl, for wave jumping.

    However a stock impellor is better than a 14/20 on a stock ski and the 14/20 lacks holeshot.

  7. #7
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    Also I wouldn't remove the factory siphon if wave jumping is your primary goal.
    Absolutely. That stock bilge works great, and should be left alone offshore. I'd run a Rule500 as well.

    The 3deg nozzle from the xlt1200 is wonderful for offshore riding. You will notice a much more horizontal attitude out of the ski... the nose tends to stay flat, until you ask it to.

    Any replacement turn nozzle would "bulletproof" the ski a little bit. Lots of folks have come down hard on the plastic stock nozzle and cracked it, or lost it altogether.

    The stock sponsons are much less agressive, even in the down position. This is a huge bonus in the ocean. Catching the top of a wave, especially if you chose to go over at some other angle than 90 is no fun.... well sort of fun, as you corkscrew in the air.

    I usually take an old vest and form it under the front bucket... doesn't hurt to have a little extra flotation in case of the worst...and weighs nothing.

    Don't take the front bucket out.

    Make sure your 4" corregated hoses are in place and pointed to the bottom of the ski... wherever the ends of those holes are, is where the water/air mixture enters the ski.

    Yamaha spark plug wires break down quickly, especially if you pull the electrical box in/out of the ski. Replace when ANY insulation is cracked or once every year, if you ride ocean all the time.

    Go to the autoparts store and pick up "die-electric grease." Put on ALL your electrical connections as possible. I usually do the ones inside my electrical box, spark plug wires, pv motor wires, you name it. It's not a grease. It's a silicon based gel that repells water and allows electrical connectors to stay oxide free.

    Have a thick plastic liner put under your seat cover. Silicone the edges of it to the seat. Install your cover over it. Always stand your seat up after a ride, anyway.

    A rear "flap" over the seat latch will keep your seat on longer and prevent the waves from opening your seat.

    A moderate designed side-lifter wedge setup will provide a means to use your legs to control your ski.

    Splash gaurds are great for the ocean, and provide much better visibility in front of you. The small one from Jettrim will control that super critical front area without wrapping all the way around the front. The flame one seems to be just as effective without all the ugliness.

    A metal tow loop, on your front tow loop is a nice quick way to get a rope on your ski...especially when your hands are frozen from riding.

    Ski ropes that float are great things.
    Last edited by Hydrotoys; 07-07-2007 at 10:44 AM.

  8. #8
    stewartgpr's Avatar
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    many thanks for your words of wisdom

    Guys

    great help ! , there are 4 of us here , 2x 06 gprs and 2 x 07 models , i shall share your recomendations with them also ,, so in summary :

    shopping list consists off :-

    1 . 13/ 19 impelor ( best make ? best budget ?)
    2. tunnel reinforce kit
    3. extended trim tabs ( r+d seem to get the best reports )
    4. splash guard ( great but does not stop my m/c hemlet getting ripped of when i nose dive )note to self - dont nose dive
    5. race ecu
    6.1200 intake grate
    7. new reeds
    8. free flow exhaust
    9. cat "D " plate

    i am not clear on ,, ride plate , i hear bad things about the stock plate but we tend not to run at any high speed , should i change to be safe for when i do have a flat day out

    most of the above seem to come in "Kit " form ,, ie : stage 2 R+d or Riva is it better to go for the full kit and save a few bucks or be selective and only shop for the above , i am looking for reliability since i throw this around alot

    other info on seat securing and underseat waterproofing was great many thanks i never really have water flooding issues

    i have had some electrical problems so i will for sure waterproof my connections

    the Ski is back in yamaha this week to sort out the problem that i am running 1 gallon of yamlube for every 2 tanks of gas , this problem came from the faults detailed on my last thread , once fixed then i need to go shopping for the winter

    great help guys and great site
    Last edited by stewartgpr; 07-08-2007 at 04:32 AM.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartgpr View Post
    Guys

    great help ! , there are 4 of us here , 2x 06 gprs and 2 x 07 models , i shall share your recomendations with them also ,, so in summary :

    shopping list consists off :-

    1 . 13/ 19 impelor ( best make ? best budget ?)
    2. tunnel reinforce kit
    3. extended trim tabs ( r+d seem to get the best reports )
    4. splash guard ( great but does not stop my m/c hemlet getting ripped of when i nose dive )note to self - dont nose dive
    5. race ecu
    6.1200 intake grate
    7. new reeds
    8. free flow exhaust
    9. cat "D " plate

    i am not clear on ,, ride plate , i hear bad things about the stock plate but we tend not to run at any high speed , should i change to be safe for when i do have a flat day out

    most of the above seem to come in "Kit " form ,, ie : stage 2 R+d or Riva is it better to go for the full kit and save a few bucks or be selective and only shop for the above , i am looking for reliability since i throw this around alot

    other info on seat securing and underseat waterproofing was great many thanks i never really have water flooding issues

    i have had some electrical problems so i will for sure waterproof my connections

    the Ski is back in yamaha this week to sort out the problem that i am running 1 gallon of yamlube for every 2 tanks of gas , this problem came from the faults detailed on my last thread , once fixed then i need to go shopping for the winter

    great help guys and great site


    1. 13/19 Solas impeller
    2. 1200 intake grate
    3. 3 degree nozzle


    These are "must haves" for an ocean boat,and in that order. The stocker plate is good, the Shred master is a bit better.

    Installing the "D" plate in place of the cat con is a good idea because it is a matter of time before you break yours. I trashed mine at 36 hours jumping waves in the Gulf of Mexico.

    The jet works mod will help you from a dead start, but if you are constantly moving and keeping your exhaust pipe free of standing water in the water box, then it is of little to no use.

    The extended trim tabs will certainly smooth out a GPR in rough water... expecially if you also have a 3 degree nozzle. I found that it took to much of the GPR's livelyness out if I just wanted to play. Racing was a different story... you want stability. Now, I run a Shred with no tabs at all. You will have to test this for you own particular riding style.

    Once you install a splash guard you will not want to go back... especially in rough water.

    Stock sponsons are all you need.

    Try these things before you go to engine mods. You may find in the future that you just want more power. For right now these mods will pleasantly surprise you.

  10. #10
    African-American
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    Skat-Trak 13/19 R Swirl impellor or a solas dynafly

    Shred master is a rough water plate, the riva/r&d plates are for flat water.

    If you use a riva/r&d plate in the ocean, itll be slower than a stock plate, and your gonna have a scary ride.

    If you want your stock sponsons to look a bit more cooler, paint them.

    Try and get a Rule 1100GHP automatic pump, when it detects water, itll pump it out, once there is no more water it stops. Very efficient. You might even want to get two of them.


    Mount one in the middle of the ski, and one at the back.

    Also look at a FUEL / VAPOR SEPERATOR kit (removes the air from the fuel, that happens with excessive jumping).

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