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  1. #1

    Intercooler install help

    Please help me with these question. I used the riva instructions but they are unclear...

    Geared up to install my intercooler today (should get it from the mail today). I ran into some problems with the pre-install of the RXT.....

    I think I stripped the clamp ring on the stock intercooler. When I screw the bolt the bottom spins. Should I jb weld the bottom or is it supposed to do that ?

    Am I supposed to use the O ring on the top(toward front of ski) of the stock intercooler or bottom of the stock intercooler when I put in the block off?

    Is it ok to shorten the water connectors from the pump to the IC. It seems pretty long. The manifold water connection seems short. Are you supposed to put an extension on this or use another hose.

    What is the easy way to take off the clamps on the water hose. I had to use a plier and peel it off. Has to be an easier way... (the one under the engine seems impossible)

    There was oil all over my stock intercooler. Was this supposed to be like this. Is this left over from before I had the oil catch can ?
    Should I try to wipe the inside where the stock intercooler went.

    Has anyone worked on the plumbing for the ebay intercooler. I'm going to try to make the plumbing as short as I can. This is correct right ? Shorter the better or should one side be shorter and the other longer to jamp up the air, like the reason uses a bigger connection on one side.


  2. #2
    Water4fire's Avatar
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    My stock IC clamp was a screw and in the bottom of the clamp was a nut affixed to it. I would say if yours is spinning it might need to just be held tight until it gets tight enough to stay put.

    My RR Block off came with the Green O ring installed, so I would use it.

    I cut my water lines to length and the Oketer clamps I just popped off with a screw driver and bought new screw clamps.

    The Stock IC on my ski was also covered in oil and this is from the crankcase vent back into the intake.

    I wouldn't worry about the inside of the intake.

    Hope this helps and I am sure people will chime in and help more.


    .

  3. #3
    From what I`m hearing, I can`t believe these ski`s have that much blow-by! to be wetting the intakes and coating the IC`s with oil ...PR...

    looks like it`s time to do the crankase vent can...

  4. #4
    Moderator Franko's Avatar
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    If you have to use an O-ring off the stock IC, use the green one. Also, silicone the block-off. You don't want any air seeping out or you will lose boost.

    Cut the hoses to length. If you screw up, you can buy heater hose cheap.

  5. #5
    GTXX's Avatar
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    PR it's not caused by blowby but from the windage of all the parts swinging around at 8000 rpm and tiny droplets of oil that fly off of these parts remain airborne long enough to make it to the crankcase vent. Remember when plumbing your catchcan that negative crankcase pressure equals horsepower and keep it plumbed into the intke tract if you can.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by GTXX
    Remember when plumbing your catchcan that negative crankcase pressure equals horsepower and keep it plumbed into the intke tract if you can.
    Can you elaborate on this a little ? So you need to have the catch can hooked into the intake for more horsepower because it needs a sucking action ?

    If a catchcan is hooked up solo you could be loosing power.


    Thanks for all the help with the IC posts!!! I'm kinda nervous with this install since it requires so many movements. Don't want to screw up...

  7. #7
    Water4fire's Avatar
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    Yea, I know what you mean! When I pulled my intake off I kept hinting the injectors on the motor, because you have to lift the heck out of the intake to get the stock IC out. I strongly recommend taking out the under seat vent and down tube.


    .

  8. #8
    GTXX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kinchyle
    Quote Originally Posted by GTXX
    Remember when plumbing your catchcan that negative crankcase pressure equals horsepower and keep it plumbed into the intke tract if you can.
    Can you elaborate on this a little ? So you need to have the catch can hooked into the intake for more horsepower because it needs a sucking action ?

    If a catchcan is hooked up solo you could be loosing power.


    Thanks for all the help with the IC posts!!! I'm kinda nervous with this install since it requires so many movements. Don't want to screw up...
    without going into a lot of detail pressure builds up in the crankcase from all of the parts moving, remember there is two sides to a piston. The pistons are displacing a lot of air on the back side too, most of which is offset by the other pistons, but not all of it. Relieving the pressure by having it open to atmosphere is the most crude form of crankcase ventilation, having negative pressure or a slight vacuum is much better. Some high tech systems actually use an air pump connected to the crankcase to create a vacuum. The stock set-up ties into the air intake which has a vacuum and relieves the crankcase pressure more effeciently at high rpm than being vented to atmosphere through a catch can with a filter. One of the air line moisture/oil accumulators inline appears to be the best set-up to me.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by GTXX
    PR it's not caused by blowby but from the windage of all the parts swinging around at 8000 rpm and tiny droplets of oil that fly off of these parts remain airborne long enough to make it to the crankcase vent. Remember when plumbing your catchcan that negative crankcase pressure equals horsepower and keep it plumbed into the intke tract if you can.
    gotcha, oil vapors slinging around! well right now, I have modded the stock vent hose to reach the Power filter correctly.Thanks...PR...

  10. #10
    Makes since..

    I wonder if anyone has done a back to back to see if they gained any top end when they hooked there catch can back to the intake.

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