Thread: Noise from Impeller
07-24-2007, 05:14 AM #1
Noise from Impeller
Ok guys you may have seen my post about lube and zirk fitting for lubing Impeller. First, thanks to all for the help and suggestions. Now hear this... After pumping about a tube and a half (the small tubes) into the fitting before seeing any grease exit around the shaft, I think I'm good to go. Or am I. Why did it take that much to fill it up. I wonder to myself "Was there any in there to begin with?" Now I noticed the other day during a ride while doing a 180 and the rear end coming out of the water -- when it cavitates -- i heard what sounded like a bearing burning. Like a high squeel. I of course said "oh chit!" So I tried to make it make the noise again, couldn't do it. Shortly thereafter put ski back on trailer and went home. 2 days later back out on the lake, and after lengthy ride was doing another 180 and ski cavitates and same sound. Once again tried to get it to do it again nothing. Now when I do these 180 or jumps of wakes where the ski will come out of water and cavitation will happen I have always left of throttle. My feeling is that is better on the ski and pump ring etc. etc. if you don't leave the throttle pinned during cavitation... loading and unloading the motor... I'm sure I don't need to go any further. My concern is this : was the impeller bearing properly lubed? And if it wasn't now that I have added the lube why would I be getting this noise? And what is this noise telling me? Help me out fellas..
07-24-2007, 07:11 AM #2
u mean the zirk for the driveshaft carrier bearing? not sure about that sound..
07-24-2007, 02:14 PM #3
Yes the Zirk fitting under the third seat for the drive shaft. Sound was quick. And like a squill. <-sp??
07-24-2007, 06:33 PM #4
The driveshaft coupler mybe slipping??? Just guessing, it is disigned to slip if you get something caught in the pump. Maybe you are loading the pump and shaft really hard causing it to slip. This is just an idea.
07-24-2007, 07:46 PM #5
The drive shaft is Not designed to slip. It is splined at the crankshaft and both couplers are splined also. The intermediate pump shaft is threaded. In fact I had to have special tooling made for my engine dyno because Honda uses a proprietary spline.
The bearing housing only needs 2-3grams of #2 grease. If it was new or disassembled it takes only 11 grams. Excess purges out on the drive shaft or falls on the floor through the intake grate.
I would take the pump off and inspect the pump and driveshaft with bearing. This is about a 1 hour job.
07-25-2007, 03:28 AM #6
Wow I was hoping it wasn't going to be that serious. I will assume the noise will only continue. And the problem, if it is, will only get worse. So since there are only a few months left in the season I will wait till then and bring it to the dealer and let them have it. Or is that one of those "wearable" items? I wouldn't have a problem pulling the pump during the winter months, but with all that silicone they have on there (and I mean a bunch) I would hate to be really binding on it to come off and break something. Well see I guess. Thanks for help and replies.
07-25-2007, 06:16 AM #7
The pump pulls off the back above the ride plate. There is NO silicone to deal with. About a 30 minute job.
Buy a service manual, from the address in the back of your owners manual and review it. You should check the pump every 6 mouths for peace of mind.
07-25-2007, 07:26 AM #8
Thank you. And I will. Still don't think the bearing might be going out?
07-25-2007, 06:34 PM #9
Just courious what happens when you suck something up into the pump at full speed???? Impller breaks, driveshaft brakes, tist the crank shaft???? The reason I ask this is on my older polaris the crankshaft comes out of index and it will not run. On my 96 polaris the driveshaft coupler on the end of the engine has a rubber sleaved coupler which will spin when and if you suck someting large into the pump to keep from causing major damage. Just wanted to know. If there is no protection I think I will find an unalterd intake grate to put back on as there is lots of logs and other debris at the local lake. Thanks for the info.
07-25-2007, 10:28 PM #10
165 HP makes a good wood shredder.
The turbo internals, meaning the Crankshaft, rods and pistons are forged . Wood should not effect them. worst case you may bend a drive shaft which is also heat-treated.
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