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  1. #1

    Ride Plate Removal

    does anybody have a step by step procedure to remove the rideplate on a RXP.
    Pictures of removed ones or open ones or any help to make me do that savely are highly apreciated!!!

  2. #2
    Hypertoys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Member yellow4 , removed one last week now on Page 7.

    How Hard to Remove the Ride Plate.

  3. #3


    Here you go hydrogen.

    1. A. remove the intake grate. 4 bolts. remember if this is the first time to heat up the bolts a little either with hot soldering iron or a little torch action. Not to much as to melt the side two rear intake grate bolt areas. Brass inserts are only in plastic (cheap)
    1. B. use allen wrench remove the coolant you see the Screw in the rear center of the ride plate. Make sure you have something to catch it in. theres a lot!.
    2. Once ride plate is off, undo the six bolts that are holding the ride plate in place.
    3. used a utility and carefully cut the black seal material (right stuff) that is sealing the rideplate to the hull. CAREFULLY. Don't want to put a gouge in the gelcoat.

    4. use a bottle jack this is like shibby did. I used my dodge dakota truck jack and place 2 x 4 blocks on upper and lower as close the the inner part as possible. Meaning you want to be closest to the pump tunnel or towards the bow. because you don't want to cause a lever effect and lift the end of the ride plate.

    Doing so could damage the two inlet and outlet plastic pipes of the ride plate.

    Closest to the inside is BEST.

    5. put the jack in and slowly raise the jack. you will hear some of the rubber stuff gasket material begin to break free. Don't be alarmed. Use a putty knife. and cut the material away as you are lifting. I went through a couple cycles. Lift it cut the stuff, release. Lift it again it will move higher up and then release. I've got pics of that. The more you can remove from the underside the easier it will come out.

    6. Once you jack it where you can't go any more, I used a cloth and very thin pry bar on the left and right side of the intake grate to get between the hull and the plate. Slow tease it up. the seal should break.

    hope this helps here are the pics. AND DON't forget too. My ski is upside down making it easier to do this. Make sure you follow hypertoys advice. The plate is a little heavy. It might catch you off guard when you are giving it that last oomph and it falls and hits your face be careful. Maybe even need to support it with something. When it comes down. Make sure it comes down level too. or else again you are going to break the two PLASTIC pipes.
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    Last edited by yellow4; 07-25-2007 at 09:37 PM.

  4. #4
    Hi Yellow4,
    perfect, thanx, exactly what I needed!!!
    NOW, how do I open and close the Rideplate to get to the water cooling inside????
    Did you try that too or has anybody done it??
    Pictures again would help a lot!!!

  5. #5
    Site Admin Green Hulk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Morgan City, LA
    Good info Yellow

  6. #6
    Thanks Jerry. I figure I would get it down in writing before I forgot since I just did it last week

    Hey Hydrogen. I think I have pics of that too. I'll try to post tonight for you.

  7. #7
    Hey Hydrogen. Sorry I misunderstood you. Are you trying to separate the ride plate itself.

    Pm Shibby man. He helped me out with a question on gelcoat a few weeks back and was very informative.

    If you type in ride plate or rideplate you may pull up his thread on ride plate truing and modification.

    There are many bolts hex screws holding the upper plate from the lower. probably like 30?

    Any ways I think that it just is matter of unscrewing and teasing it open. I think there is just gasket inside. Should come right out.

    hope this helps.

    Hey heres the post dont bother searching...

  8. #8
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Elephant Butte New Mexico

    in the middle of some rideplate action..

    2007 rxt showed up this week with an overheat compalint.

    Duh...the rideplate was punctured by a rock scrape..all the coolant was lost! Wasn't much of a gouge ( pics to follow)

    That is some cheese-ass chunk of aluminum to just shatter like that...
    anyhow, looked like it had been done once before, the silicon job wasn't so good, and I was able to use a sears 1/4 ton car jack ( the really cheapo one) to help the plate off. Didn't give a damm about the hose connectors, they are cheap enough to replace. and I would have had a time getting them off anyway..those are some serious sroing cleams and not in a very good spot for leverage..need a specialy too for sure.

    any suggestions on a better quality plate?, the aluminum should have been about 3x thicker then it was to keep this vital bit from being compromised.

    btw, the owner reported code p0116 ( "engine temperature sensor malfuntion"...geee, a total loss of coolant is an engine sensor malfucntion? ya think!.

    Have to order tomorrow, so any suggestions on alternatives most helpful.

    on the lighter side, seapoo suggests changing the coolant before storage anyway...

  9. #9
    King_Of_Fun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Catawba Island, Ohio
    I'ver never seen anything but an OEM replacement. A couple of guys here mod OEM rideplates, but that's all I've heard about... Ron

  10. #10
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Elephant Butte New Mexico

    after sleeping on it a bit....

    I'm thinking about adding some 3016 aluminum strip to the bottom of the plate. Our lake has some low lying rocks which are hungry for any kind of aluminum or fiberglass that comes near then so my thinking is $50-100 worth of beef up is worth the cost. 3016 Plate is expensive, but a couple of strips will perhaps take the brunt of the rock contact and maybe save the rideplate from being punctured. Use some of that expensive loctite flange sealant to attach them, I was suprised how much pressure it took to the the plate to seperate,t ehre wasn't a whole lot of sealant on it.

    IMHO it's a crappy design, the jetpump could have easily fed a heat exchanger located inside the hull, even an electric pump could have dealt with the cooling needs. I'll be suggesting a water temp guage since the instrumentation on this ski isn't up to it's cost, or it's potential to grenade.

    A supercharged engine should have an oil temp/pressure wtaer temp display so the operator can prevent the expensive pain or replacement.

    I'll suggest it to the owner and see if he wants to go for the extra costs. Will without doubt casue some waterr flow problems, but I don't think this guy is a full thottle hound ( espacially at 15 gals + an hour)

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