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  1. #1

    Exclamation New to the forums... my 2000 Speedster just died :( Help?

    Hello all! I know people hate when newbie posters on sites post questions about things that have probably been addressed many times. I spent an hour going through the site search to try and find answers to my questions, but did not have as much luck as I hoped. Please don't hate on me if these are repetitive questions...

    Background: I've got a 2000 Seadoo Speedster 16.5' w/ the 240hp Merc EFI motor. I bought it used last year. It was good overall shape, and ran like a dream. Over the past month, it has started to cut out on me after a long day. I'll have plenty of gas, but I'll be at WOT and the engine just cuts. I was able to restart it (many times before the boat even slowed down) and continue my ride. ***Also I was at a local dealer and they had me use Evinrude XD50 oil for my motor. Is that okay? The owner ASSURED me it would work perfectly, but I'm being skeptical. Should I have it drained and use the SeaDoo stuff?***

    Then, last week, disaster struck... I was on vacation, and no more than 45 seconds in the water, trouble started. The boat would barely plane off and get up to speed. Then the engine died once again from WOT. It kept giving me problems on the restart. I'd have to let the boat sit for about 3 minutes before it would turn over again. I towed it to the dock and let it sit for a couple of days.

    I decided to try my luck again in case my boat was just being moody with me. I was able to start the motor, but it kept idling really rough (hard to explain, the motor wasn't idling rough, but I could hear/feel the impeller vibrating a little), and sometimes stalling. Finally I towed the boat back to my trailer using my friend's 15hp fishing boat (what a nightmare). I was able to start my boat enough to load it onto the trailer, but there was definately something wrong.

    I lucked out and found a dealer 15 minutes from where I was vacationing, so I dropped the boat off there. I explained my situation to the dealer and they said it sounded like a wear ring problem.

    Now, I've read so many posts about wear rings, that I'm almost slightly confused. Here's what I think i know:

    1. If you're mechanically inclined, and want to save money, you can replace the wear ring yourself.

    2. If you don't mind spending $250 (seems to be the going price? let me know if anyone knows differently?), have the dealer do it.

    3. There are aftermarket Stainless Steel wear rings, but people do not recommend using them.

    The dealer is going to be calling me Friday with a diagnosis and an estimate. I'd like to be prepared when they do and not just sit on the phone and nod my head while they tell me I need to drop thousands of unecessary dollars fixing things that may not be broken (I know if they say they need to top off my headlight fluid I should drive down there and choke someone.)

    Anyways... if anyone can shed some light as to what I might expect and what I should know when they call, I would appreciate it.

    Basically I'd like to know what this wear ring replacement might run me...

    Also, on a side note... kind of ridiculous to be asking this questions but I see there are site links from this site to aftermarket accessories for mostly PWC. I can't seem to find anything relating to my JetBoat. Can anyone guide me to a site that might have some accessories (performance, or not) for my 2000 Speedster?

    Let me know if anyone has any info for me.


  2. #2
    WaskesiuDoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Sherwood Park, Alberta
    This is right off of Mercury's website:

    What alternative/equivalent 2-cycle oils are available when I can't purchase Mercury Marine Precision Lubricants or Quicksilver brands of oil?

    If Quicksilver or Mercury Precision Lubricants outboard oil is not available, substitute another brand of 2-cycle outboard oil that is NMMA Certified TC-W3. The use of an inferior 2-cycle outboard oil can reduce engine durability. Damage from use of inferior oil may not be covered under the limited warranty. Always consult your Operation, Maintenance and Warranty Manual for additional information. Use the Bookshelf link on the Mercury Dockstore page if you need to place an order for a replacement manual.

    Below is some info about the DFI injector oil from Mercury:


    A synthetic blend 2-Cycle engine oil specifically formulated and developed to meet the needs of:
    OptiMax and Direct Fuel Injected (DFI) 2-cycle outboard engines.
    • Provides the maximum protection for Optimax and DFI engines even under the most extreme operating conditions.
    • Outperforms other oils by combining a carefully modified base stock blend with a synthetic additive package.
    • Minimizes carbon build-up to help maintain engine top end speed and acceleration.
    • Superior lubrication for increased resistance to piston scuffing.
    • Will mix with typical 2-cycle engine oils.
    • Provides warranty protection for Mercury and Mariner Optimax and DFI outboards.
    Available container sizes: Pint, Quart, Gallon, 2.5 Gallon, 55 Gallon

    I hope this helps with your oil question.

  3. #3
    I am new to sport boats also, but I have driven 2 stroke snowmobiles and outboards for to many years.
    I hate to say this, but it sounds like the engine was overheating and siezing up. You said the few times it shut down, it had to sit for a while before it would turnover. It probably cooled down enough to get clearance back in the engine. Maybe the water pump went bad!
    Hopefully I am wrong, but the impeller wear ring would really have to be tore up in order to shut you down at WOT. Or maybe something jammed in the impeller.

    Good Luck

  4. #4

    loss of compression

    I got the dreaded phonecall today...

    One of the cylinders has zero compression. So far i'm an hour's labor into this ($89) and they called to ask permission to take apart the motor to actually see how bad the problem is (another $89).

    I'm glad I brought it to the dealer I guess, I'd be scratching my head in my driveway for awhile.

    The mechanic seemed to be optimistic. He said with the type of block in the motor they would most likely be able to bore it out and just use a larger diameter piston instead of getting into replacing major engine components.

    They said they took a look at the impeller and did not find anything unusual. Nothing jammed, nothing chipped, looks great. He said he's certain the symptoms I explained can absolutely be caused by no compression.

    They're going to call me back tomorrow with a full estimate and parts list for the job. He said it should be "reasonable" as long as they can bore it out. I asked for a definition of reasonable, and he told me he would have a much better idea tomorrow / Monday.

    So... has anybody happened to go through this? How bad of shape am I looking?

  5. #5
    Well, do you want to the bad news now or later? I guess I'll tell you what I would suspect. If one cylinder is "0", you probably have 2 or 3 more that are tore up "some what". In that case you will want to bore out and clean up all 6?(I think its a V6). In that case a "rebuilt" power head may be the cheaper($2,000 ) way to go.
    Depending on your insurance, if you or someone else beached(COLLIDED) it on a sand bar and sucked a load of sand in, it may be covered by insurance. I've always carried full insurance on my newer toys for these types of encounters. The $250 deductable is tolerable.
    Have them check the water pump, if the rubber impeller is tore all to hell it may support a sandbar collision situation or if the block has sand in it.
    Hopefully you can get it repaired in 2-4 weeks and be back on the water before the weather turns cold.

    Good Luck,

  6. #6

    Rebuilt power head / Insurance

    That's not really great news. I was afraid of something like that. I'm sure they're going to determine what needs to be replaced. They didn't seem to mention anything about any of the other cylinders. I'm going to keep my fingers crossed. This problem happened instantly, and the boat was not run for very long in this condition. I'm hoping that will have minimized any damages.

    I'm pretty sure I have full coverage on the boat. The only boating "accident" that's happened is that we sucked up a line from a tube I was towing last year. That was a bad day. We spent two hours under water cutting it out. If there's not impeller / hull / wear ring damage, a collision is pretty much ruled out, and going the insurance route would not be an option, right?

    I'll be getting a phone call Monday with a full diagnosis and estimate. The shop seemed to be fairly sure that I would be able to get out of there for under $1k. If that's the case I'll be glad. I'll run it for the rest of this year, and look into a new boat next season.

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