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  1. #1
    Polaris 750Sl
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    9

    95' Polaris 750sl Fuel Sending

    I talked with partsland today and ordered a new Float...Can anyone tell me how easy it is to install...They made it sound like it should be a simple task. I know you have to open the cargo area, un-screw the screws that hold the lines into the tank. From that point I need help.


  2. #2
    Disconnect the battery.

    You will probably have to move the fuel tank forward(some say you don;t, but I had to). A emplty tank helps . Four bolts.Loosen the clamps that hold the rubber fill hose, so you can squish the hose a bit, while moving the tank forward.

    Unbolt the fuel sender.4 Screws .Mark the fuel lines. Don't destroy the gasket while unbolting.

    Small nut on the bottom. Remove. When reinstall float don't overer tighten nut. and use locktite.

    http://www.sbtontheweb.com/forum/sho...ht=fuel+sender

    Reassemble. Re-connect the battery.


    EAsier said than done !..............
    Last edited by dorf; 07-27-2007 at 01:59 PM. Reason: Added link

  3. #3
    Polaris 750Sl
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    9

    thanks

    hey, thanks

    I am going to be replacing all the fuel lines....Should I do it at the same time? Why do I have to mark the fuel lines? Are they in a specific order? I haven't even looked at that part yet. Seems like I have a lot of room to work with. Is the Sending Unit long though?

  4. #4
    Polaris 750Sl
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    9

    One more thing.

    I bought a new filler neck,sleeve, and cap. The old one has rivets. Should I just drill them out? I think the new kit has stainless bolts with nuts. Any info would help.

    Few more things...I broke down the Intake to the top of the carbs. Is it easy to remove the rest to get to the reeds and also be able to look at the carbs for deposits. I also notice after taking off the intake, screen, bolts, and bottom plate: There wasn't a gasket in between the bottom plate and top of the Carbs. I looked at a parts breakdown and it calls for a FLAME ARRESTOR GASKET at that spot. Is this correct?

    Thanks so much for all your help so far. The project is going good. Compression is 120/123/125. I think that is fairly good right?
    Last edited by trentgstl; 07-27-2007 at 02:36 PM. Reason: Few more questions

  5. #5
    Don't know about the filler stuff or carbs.

    If you look real close at the top of the gas tank sender connection you will see markings for M ain, R eserve, R eturn, V ent .

    Be sure to put hoses back in the same place.

    A Clymer manual would be helpful to you.

    www.partsland.com for parts pictures

  6. #6
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Cleveland OH
    Posts
    17,329
    +1
    31
    Quote Originally Posted by trentgstl View Post
    I bought a new filler neck,sleeve, and cap. The old one has rivets. Should I just drill them out? I think the new kit has stainless bolts with nuts. Any info would help.

    Few more things...I broke down the Intake to the top of the carbs. Is it easy to remove the rest to get to the reeds and also be able to look at the carbs for deposits. I also notice after taking off the intake, screen, bolts, and bottom plate: There wasn't a gasket in between the bottom plate and top of the Carbs. I looked at a parts breakdown and it calls for a FLAME ARRESTOR GASKET at that spot. Is this correct?

    Thanks so much for all your help so far. The project is going good. Compression is 120/123/125. I think that is fairly good right?
    Yes drill the rivets, but don't drill through the hull. There should be a gasket between the F/A and carb tops. Maybe you can cheat and use a LITTLE gasket sealant if you don't plan on removing the F/A's much? and your compression is very good. Good luck.

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