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  1. #1

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    Quick question....

    I installed some OPAS Bloack off plates and I want to make sure that they are going to be water tight. I used silicone ont he back of all of the plates and then I ran a bead around all of the edges of the plates...

    If you can remember back I had a problem witht he inner left block off plate as when i went to screw the screw in to hold the plate it stripped the hull so I used some Fiberglass epoxy and put it in the hole let it cure for awile and then screwed a bigger screw in it. I hope it holds...but my question is..

    Is there anything ont he market that will bond metal to fiberglass and make it a permantent seal aroudn the edges? Or should I be fine with just a bead of silicone around the edges?


  2. #2
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    well since you stripped it... why not drill both the holes out completely on that one place inner plate... and then put a bolt and ny-loc nut straight thru the plate and thru the hull... a nut and washer on the inside. it'll last forever that way.

  3. #3

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    how can I get all the way to the back of my ski...its a GTX...I am 6'5" and i tried to get my hand all the way back there and couldnt...

  4. #4
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    find someone little where u live? if ur close, i can get in there. i go head first into my hull and can get my head all the way down into where the OPAS rods go thru the hull... pretty scary eh?

    otherwise, take the outter plates off, and put the nut in a LONGGGGG needle nose set of plyers and try that way...

    only one hole is stripped? then drill out jsut that one, put the bolt thru the palte and thru the hull and you can put the nut on the bolt by sticking ur finger in there... and the hole that isn't stripped do it the normal way with the threaded insert.

  5. #5

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    I live in Ohio so a little far away...but I will try the 2nd idea I think i can do that. thanks for the help!

  6. #6
    Quality silicone will be fine, use something good for above and below waterline would be best...PR...

    Shibbs has a good idea, find a nylon lock-nut to fit the stock allen cap screw and your in business...

  7. #7

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    I used Clear Silicone...its the same brand that makes the black RTV silicone...cant think of the name but I used it on a leaky rear window in my old truck and it worked very good. So we will see...hope i dont sink...I have to test it her when it warms up...thanksa gain guys I may try that Niloc nut idea.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Totallyblown
    I used Clear Silicone...its the same brand that makes the black RTV silicone...cant think of the name but I used it on a leaky rear window in my old truck and it worked very good. So we will see...hope i dont sink...I have to test it her when it warms up...thanksa gain guys I may try that Niloc nut idea.
    Permatex or Loc-tite...

    the clear is a good adhesive, but will turn yellowish quickly.

    next time, you can use lifeline from Boatersworld or use the Permatex ULTRA Black...PR...

  9. #9
    Moderator Insanediego Joe's Avatar
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    Should have used fast cure 5200 available @ west marine. Clear silicone is iffy.

  10. #10
    The 5200 doesn't adhere to metal. Atleast that is what 3m told me. Especially aluminum and stainless steel. Call the number on the tube and ask first.

    Isanediego, how do you like your RXP?

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