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  1. #1
    Overlord in training ryan*9's Avatar
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    Question Need new motor! help please!!!

    the 96 crankshafts beraring decided to explode so we are jsut going to get a new motor.. we were planing on http://www.sbtontheweb.com/ cause we heard about it from a old time racer..
    now i come to this site and i am seeing other sides of the story...

    what should i do? what is so bad about these motors?
    if not them then who?
    prices... links... please.

    someone said OEM....?
    is that when i go to any dealer and order everypart number in the motor and what not....?
    links and info would be greatly appreciated...


    i read this on the sbt web site...
    Should I use an oil-block off? Oil-Block off kits are recommended for use by SBT on skis more than 7 years old with normal use, to insure your engine always receives the proper lubrication. Common failures on engines include lack-of-lubrication seizures due to failed oil pumps, breaks in lines, leaks, etc. Running a pre-mix oil/gasoline mixture solves this problem.
    what do i need to do that mod? is it worth it?
    i read somewhere that running premix is bad for the carbs...



    and also we are looking into factrory pipe... Sea-Doo ® 650/720 http://www.factorypipe.com/p_seadoo.php
    how good is this Electronically Controlled Water injection (ECWI®) system
    and this company itself?



    i well prob be asking more questions as i go thanks for anyhelp!


  2. #2
    Jug Inspector
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryan*9 View Post
    the 96 crankshafts beraring decided to explode so we are jsut going to get a new motor.. we were planing on http://www.sbtontheweb.com/ cause we heard about it from a old time racer..
    now i come to this site and i am seeing other sides of the story...

    what should i do? what is so bad about these motors? Cheap parts, mismatched parts, broken parts, incorrect blocks sent, etc etc.
    if not them then who? I'm sorry I can't help here. I rebuild all my own stuff.
    prices... links... please.

    someone said OEM....? Arm and a leg.
    is that when i go to any dealer and order everypart number in the motor and what not....? No, they mean order a shortblock. You might be able to find some crate shortblocks around, but highly unlikely.
    links and info would be greatly appreciated...


    i read this on the sbt web site...
    Should I use an oil-block off? Oil-Block off kits are recommended for use by SBT on skis more than 7 years old with normal use, to insure (Anyone who uses the word insure where ENSURE should be should not be entrusted with your engine) your engine always receives the proper lubrication. Common failures on engines include lack-of-lubrication seizures due to failed oil pumps, breaks in lines, leaks, etc. Running a pre-mix oil/gasoline mixture solves this problem.
    what do i need to do that mod? is it worth it? Most people recommend going pre-mix as it is the ONLY way to absolutely guarantee you're lubing your engine. With that said I personally don't go pre-mix... I stay oil injected.
    i read somewhere that running premix is bad for the carbs...There is some debate as to if/how much running pre-mix leans your air/fuel mixture. By itself it will not harm your carbs.



    and also we are looking into factrory pipe... Sea-Doo ® 650/720 http://www.factorypipe.com/p_seadoo.php
    how good is this Electronically Controlled Water injection (ECWI®) system
    and this company itself? What ski is this, an HX? Check out www.groupk.com for mod ideas.



    i well prob be asking more questions as i go thanks for anyhelp!
    Are you 100% sure that it's just the bearings? If you didn't spin them in the cases and your cases are ok, you can split the engine yourself and rebuild it.

    Gasket set - $85
    Rings - $35
    Hone - $20 (unless you do it yourself or find someone who will for free)
    Crank $150-$500 depending on if you have yours rebuilt or buy used/rebuilt/new

    That engine if properly taken care of will last you 100's of hours without a problem.

    Bryan

  3. #3
    Overlord in training ryan*9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ibreakstuff View Post
    Are you 100% sure that it's just the bearings? If you didn't spin them in the cases and your cases are ok, you can split the engine yourself and rebuild it.

    Gasket set - $85
    Rings - $35
    Hone - $20 (unless you do it yourself or find someone who will for free)
    Crank $150-$500 depending on if you have yours rebuilt or buy used/rebuilt/new

    That engine if properly taken care of will last you 100's of hours without a problem.

    Bryan
    thank you!
    ya i forgot to say its a 96 spx with the 717..
    you say u rebuild yourself that what we are doing but we dont know where to get the parts from...
    once we got it together we are going to take it in for a full tuning and what not...

  4. #4
    Overlord in training ryan*9's Avatar
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    what about any cheep mods i can do and or buy right from the dealer?

  5. #5
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryan*9 View Post
    what about any cheep mods i can do and or buy right from the dealer?
    I would not waste my money modding a 717. 96 XP's are cheap, can be modded cheaper, be much more reliable modded...and are more fuel efficient. 717's modded suck gas...BTW. Just ask any previous owner.

    You should do a search on the threads...I've mentioned Rotax remanufactured engines many a time. If you've read negative things about SBT then you must have read our suggestions?
    Last edited by 96XPSS; 08-06-2007 at 02:59 PM.

  6. #6
    Overlord in training ryan*9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96XPSS View Post
    I would not waste my money modding a 717. 96 XP's are cheap, can be modded cheaper, be much more reliable modded...and are more fuel efficient. 717's modded suck gas...BTW. Just ask any previous owner.

    You should do a search on the threads...I've mentioned Rotax remanufactured engines many a time. If you've read negative things about SBT then you must have read our suggestions?
    i nkow what we are doing is just getting the crank set straight from them.
    does rotax themselves make refurbs? if so how much would they charge?
    i dont have to money for a new ski.. i was just asking if there is any cheep stuff i could do to this to make it a little funner..
    some stuff i have gathered from this site which i well look into (tell me yes or no)
    -intake grat. different style.
    -flame arestor
    -rev limiter(my spx jsut takes off when its out of the water..)
    -new stock impeller and jet pump liner.
    -a cheep exaught pipe?? from rotax themselves do they have any proformance ones? maybe a pipe from a different modle that would be better?

  7. #7
    Jug Inspector
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryan*9 View Post
    -intake grat. different style. You need to decide what you want to do with the ski, top end or make it bearable in the chop.
    -flame arestor Good call
    -rev limiter(my spx jsut takes off when its out of the water..) This scares me. Does it idle in the water really fast? It should idle about 2-3mph in the water. It also should idle between 3000-4000rpm out of the water, preferably right in the middle at 3500. If you are revving out of control you may have a death-rev, aka an air leak. PS you already a rev limiter.
    -new stock impeller and jet pump liner. Good call. Check the clearance between the wear ring and impeller. If it's ok, and your impeller isn't a chewed up you're probably ok.
    -a cheep exaught pipe?? from rotax themselves do they have any proformance ones? maybe a pipe from a different modle that would be better? Unless you are prepared to do some re-jetting and spending some hours on the water tuning I would suggest not. But if you're up to it then get one, just know that tossing a pipe on and not testing will most likely blow the engine. If it doesn't blow it you'll have poor performance.
    Bryan

  8. #8
    Overlord in training ryan*9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ibreakstuff View Post
    -intake grat. different style. You need to decide what you want to do with the ski, top end or make it bearable in the chop. what style would i need to keep it from poping outt of the water when i spin...? like goding fast and i really lean into it is there one that would keep the bottom end down in the water?
    -flame arestor Good call any certin one you would recomend?
    -rev limiter(my spx jsut takes off when its out of the water..) This scares me. Does it idle in the water really fast? It should idle about 2-3mph in the water. It also should idle between 3000-4000rpm out of the water, preferably right in the middle at 3500. If you are revving out of control you may have a death-rev, aka an air leak. PS you already a rev limiter.
    yes i was looking some more and i know that now... sounds like i have this "death rev" in water yes i have a high idle and i move quite fast.. what can i do to get rid of this? would a simple carb rebuild kit like i see on that sbt website fix this and be worth it? my whole motor right now its totally taken apart btw..
    -new stock impeller and jet pump liner. Good call. Check the clearance between the wear ring and impeller. If it's ok, and your impeller isn't a chewed up you're probably ok. i have a few dents and scratches on both prop and jet pump liner... what about that metal peice behind it? should i worry about any damage to that? dents? is it something i can jsut file? (that gold peice). and also that space infront of the jet pump has alod of cuts in it.. is there a certin product that i should use to fill these to make it smoth? same with the bottom of the hull?
    ryan

  9. #9
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    A top-loading intake grate will keep you butt down, but you'll lose a few MPH up top. R&D makes a good one.

    Any flame arrestor is good, except the K&N's - they don't pass air as well when wet. Ocean Pro, Tau Ceti, ProK, any of 'em

    Try turning the idle speed down, it's on the MAG carb, underneath. Pain in the butt to see/get to. A little turn goes a long way. If you are unsure of the condition of the carbs I would go ahead and rebuild them. They're self-explanatory when cleaning/disassembling/etc. ZYou'll need to re-set your popoff. Search the site for it, there's plenty of info. If you need help with a pop-off guage let me know, I found one that's really cheap and works fine ($10) I think we already went over the SBT stuff. Call another vendor, almost any of them can get the rebuild kit for you: Watcon, atlanticjetsports, parkeryamaha, etc.

    I'm not sure what "metal piece" you're talking about. Try and make everything as smooth-flowing as possible. You can sharpen the edges of the intake grate and pump stator. File down all gouges that stick out. I try and clean up the leading and trailing edges of impellers to make it a little longer on them. I don't drag race so that extra .5mph doesn't kill me.
    Some people fill their wear-rings in with JB weld. Your call. New wear rings are actually cheap - $35 or so. For the bottom of the hull if it's just scratched don't sweat it. There are tests that say a scratched hull is better, tracks better, etc. If the cracks/gouges go through the gelcoat down to the fiberglass you need to fill it with something. You're supposed to use special epoxy or marine resin. I've used regular glass resin without a problem. It's clear so it doesn't match FYI.

    Bryan

  10. #10
    Overlord in training ryan*9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ibreakstuff View Post
    A top-loading intake grate will keep you butt down, but you'll lose a few MPH up top. R&D makes a good one.

    Any flame arrestor is good, except the K&N's - they don't pass air as well when wet. Ocean Pro, Tau Ceti, ProK, any of 'em

    Try turning the idle speed down, it's on the MAG carb, underneath. Pain in the butt to see/get to. A little turn goes a long way. If you are unsure of the condition of the carbs I would go ahead and rebuild them. They're self-explanatory when cleaning/disassembling/etc. ZYou'll need to re-set your popoff. Search the site for it, there's plenty of info. If you need help with a pop-off guage let me know, I found one that's really cheap and works fine ($10) I think we already went over the SBT stuff. Call another vendor, almost any of them can get the rebuild kit for you: Watcon, atlanticjetsports, parkeryamaha, etc.

    I'm not sure what "metal piece" you're talking about. Try and make everything as smooth-flowing as possible. You can sharpen the edges of the intake grate and pump stator. File down all gouges that stick out. I try and clean up the leading and trailing edges of impellers to make it a little longer on them. I don't drag race so that extra .5mph doesn't kill me.
    Some people fill their wear-rings in with JB weld. Your call. New wear rings are actually cheap - $35 or so. For the bottom of the hull if it's just scratched don't sweat it. There are tests that say a scratched hull is better, tracks better, etc. If the cracks/gouges go through the gelcoat down to the fiberglass you need to fill it with something. You're supposed to use special epoxy or marine resin. I've used regular glass resin without a problem. It's clear so it doesn't match FYI.

    Bryan
    thankyou you have been a great amount of help.

    when u say loose top end.. how much?
    and the metal thing i mean it the thing right behind the prop

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