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  1. #1

    RE blockoff install question.

    Hi All:

    Going to install my RE Blockoffs tomorrow. Have a quick question for the forum. On my '04 GTX SC, I'm assuming that I need to disconnect the hose on the top of the pump. This is the one with the 90 degree fitting that connects to the thru hull fitting which is located above it. What are people using to block/cap off these two disconnects. Metric or SAE ? Size??

    I'm using the Riva instructions for the OPAS block off kit (RS 29050). They don't specify exactly what they have supplied in their kit for the above mentioned activity.

    Thankx..


    Jeff G.


  2. #2
    HoopsRXT's Avatar
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    The threaded piece in the pump 3/8" pipe thread. I used a plastic plug i found at a hardware store. Some people use a rubber vacuum cap on the tee on the hull and just clamp it one. Other people like myself got a peice of aluminum and made a plate to replace the tee that was in the hull.
    Last edited by HoopsRXT; 08-06-2007 at 04:08 PM.

  3. #3
    yes just like Hoops says: 1/2NPT for the pump, if you can remove that "T" diverter valve, that is KNOWN to leak and will fill your ski up with water when it fails...

    take the gasket from the valve and copy it to a piece of alum, paint it, apply silicone and install. I chose to use small #8 or #10 SS bolts/washer/nuts instead of the cheesy screws in the valve...PR...

  4. #4
    AKA: Larry lafjax's Avatar
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    I elected to leave my t-valve alone so I took a short piece of 1/2" heater hose, siliconed a short 1/2 dowel in it and installed with the hose clamp above the pump. So far it's held fine. I tried a vaccum blockoff but it ripped right off.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by lafjax View Post
    I elected to leave my t-valve alone so I took a short piece of 1/2" heater hose, siliconed a short 1/2 dowel in it and installed with the hose clamp above the pump. So far it's held fine. I tried a vaccum blockoff but it ripped right off.
    OK, but that`s not where the failure occurs. the valve itself moves, you can physically move the core up and down, here is where it will leak.
    Kinchyle`s boat pretty much almost sank bc of it...PR...

  6. #6
    Hi All:

    So it looks like I need to make a small plate to cover the hole after I remove the "t-valve".

    As PR has recomended, I'll use it's gasket as a template to make the plate.

    So...there will be three plates installed in the pump area. Two side plates from RE and the 3rd which I have made to cover the hole after the t-valve removal.

    I assume that I should use a marine grade silicone sealant when I install these plates? After which I'll use the existing screws, to complete the plate installation.

    What about the outer plates, where specifically should I be applying the sealant?

    Hopefully not silly questions, but I thought I'd get it right the first time. After all it's my wife's (Cough...cough) ski.

    Thanks again...

    Jeff

  7. #7
    AKA: Larry lafjax's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pale Rider View Post
    OK, but that`s not where the failure occurs. the valve itself moves, you can physically move the core up and down, here is where it will leak.
    Kinchyle`s boat pretty much almost sank bc of it...PR...
    Yep, Andy, I can push the nylon pipe sticking out above the pump up and pull it down. You are saying it will leak there? When I had the OPAS hooked up it still would push up and down but did not leak?? Was the pressure of the water to the t-valve keeping it down and sealed??

  8. #8

    Any body got pics of this t valve

    anybody got a picture of this

  9. #9
    HoopsRXT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NHGTX SC View Post
    Hi All:

    So it looks like I need to make a small plate to cover the hole after I remove the "t-valve".

    As PR has recomended, I'll use it's gasket as a template to make the plate.

    So...there will be three plates installed in the pump area. Two side plates from RE and the 3rd which I have made to cover the hole after the t-valve removal. Correct

    I assume that I should use a marine grade silicone sealant when I install these plates? After which I'll use the existing screws, to complete the plate installation. I used silicone from an auto parts store its called ultra black by permatex. Others use the "The Right Stuff" also by permatex. Both are black in color and work well. I just re-used all the OEM screws.

    What about the outer plates, where specifically should I be applying the sealant? When I install my RE's i applied a thin coat to cover the entire face of the plate. I did all the pieces the same way-both inner and outers. Just like if if you were buttering a piece of bread. I like to see just a little ooz out the side so i know i had good coverage and it seals well. If you get too much ooz out the you just have to wipe it off.

    Hopefully not silly questions, but I thought I'd get it right the first time. After all it's my wife's (Cough...cough) ski.

    Thanks again...

    Jeff
    Hope that helps you out.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by yellow4 View Post
    anybody got a picture of this
    Here is a couple pictures. One showing only about 1/2 inch of the white OPAS T valve exposed above the vacuum block off (pushed/slid up in the black plastic retainer. The other image shows about an inch of exposed white OPAS T valve exposed. The white valve slides up and down in the black plastic holder/retainer that is screwed into the hull. The seal between the two can become comprimised... Sorry for the blur (just cross your eyes).

    I was obviously going to go with the vacuum block offs but based on the info in this thread I will remove and replace with an alluminum plate and bolt it on.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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Name:	OPAS T Valve 002.JPG 
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