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  1. #1

    97 XP Starting issue

    I have a 97 XP and recently the bearing on the balancing shaft seized and blew out the side of the block. I replaced the sections of the block that were damaged and everything seemed to go alright. Since then the only way I can get the thing started is with starting fluid. It sounds fine once started but getting it started is almost impossible. Once warmed up it will start fairly easily with a little throttle. However if I let it sit for a couple of hours it will not start again. I have double checked the rotary valve timing, which checked out ok. I also checked the rotary valve clearance and it seems to be within spec as well. Compression is 140 in both cylinders. I installed new spark plugs as well. Tried new battery. I have adjusted the low speed screws up and down with no success. Checked the filters and everything else on the carbs and they are clean. I'm getting fuel from the return line of the carbs and the injectors are spraying gas into the carbs as they should. The carbs are getting fuel I just don't know if they are staying primed or what the problem is. I'm trying to get this ski running again by Friday for a church retreat and just don't know what else to do. P.S. the ski never had this problem before the bearing did the motor in. Please offer any advice you can.

    Thanks in advance,
    Ryan
    Last edited by djdeet; 08-07-2007 at 03:20 PM.


  2. #2
    Jug Inspector
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    Umm, how did you replace the section of the "block"? The cases are molded halves and there aren't parts that can be "replaced". Unless you had it filled and repaired? Or got new cases altogether?

    When you try and crank it over without starting fluid, do so for about 10 seconds or so. Pull your plugs? Are they dry or wet? (I guess dry as a bone)

    Seems like you have a lean condition. Or your rotary valve clearance is off.

    Bryan

  3. #3
    I replace both halves of the block except for cylinders and stuff like that. I checked the rotary valve clearance it was within spec. Any other thoughts?

  4. #4
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    Will it idle after it's been started with starting fluid?

    Pressure test it.

    Bryan

  5. #5
    yes it will idle after starting it with starter fluid. How do I pressure test it?

  6. #6
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    Plug all the holes (exhaust, intake, etc) and pressurize the whole engine to 10psi. If it holds for 10 minutes you're good.

    Bryan

  7. #7
    Okay did some more work tonight and still nothing. Tried an in-line spark tester. It showed there was spark at both plugs. Tore apart the carbs as much as possible (on one side of the carb the screws were stuck and couldn't get it open) Everything was as clean as could be. Took the fuel line off of the inlet of the carbs and gas comes pouring out so I don't think the fuel lines are clogged. I have noticed that it backfires often while trying to get it running as well. I know Bryan talked about pressure testing the motor which I assume involves pulling the whole motor again. Can you explain what pressure testing it actually checks for? Does that check the seals everywhere else besides the compression within the pistons that is normally checked with a compression test? I guess one of the last things I'm going to do is pull both carburators off of my other XP and try them on this ski just to rule out everything with the carbs. If that doesn't work then I don't know what the hell the problem is.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by djdeet View Post
    Okay did some more work tonight and still nothing. Tried an in-line spark tester. It showed there was spark at both plugs. Tore apart the carbs as much as possible (on one side of the carb the screws were stuck and couldn't get it open) Everything was as clean as could be. Took the fuel line off of the inlet of the carbs and gas comes pouring out so I don't think the fuel lines are clogged. I have noticed that it backfires often while trying to get it running as well. I know Bryan talked about pressure testing the motor which I assume involves pulling the whole motor again. Can you explain what pressure testing it actually checks for? Does that check the seals everywhere else besides the compression within the pistons that is normally checked with a compression test? I guess one of the last things I'm going to do is pull both carburators off of my other XP and try them on this ski just to rule out everything with the carbs. If that doesn't work then I don't know what the hell the problem is.
    Be careful what carbs you put on it, if they're jetted for a different engine you'll blow the engine. Well, seize it at least and cause 100 hours of wear in 5 minutes.

    Is it backfiring out of the carbs or the exhaust? Your compression is good, and you say your rotary valve is timed right, so it can only be tow things: Lean or timing off.

    Skip the pressure test for now. Get it running, and spray WD-40 or starting fluid around all the seals, gaskets, crank halves, etc. If your RPM raises when you spray a certain area, that's where your air leak is. If this test leads to nothing then you're going to need to check your timing. It's not adjustable on that ski so maybe you forgot to put the woodruff key in? Or it sheered?

    Do you have a manual?

    Bryan

  9. #9
    Be careful what carbs you put on it, if they're jetted for a different engine you'll blow the engine. Well, seize it at least and cause 100 hours of wear in 5 minutes.

    The carbs are off of a 97 SeaDoo XP as well so no problem there switching them.


    Is it backfiring out of the carbs or the exhaust? Your compression is good, and you say your rotary valve is timed right, so it can only be tow things: Lean or timing off.

    I see puffs coming from the carbs but also hear it in the exhaust a well.

    Skip the pressure test for now. Get it running, and spray WD-40 or starting fluid around all the seals, gaskets, crank halves, etc. If your RPM raises when you spray a certain area, that's where your air leak is. If this test leads to nothing then you're going to need to check your timing. It's not adjustable on that ski so maybe you forgot to put the woodruff key in? Or it sheered?

    If the woodruff key were not there or sheared off wouldn't the flywheel spin freely and not crank the pistons (which it is doing)?

    Do you have a manual?

    Yes I have a manual

  10. #10
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    The key is solely for timing purposes. The flywheel will stick plenty to crank and ignite the coils.

    It's coming out both carbs?

    Use the test procedure in the manual for testing the electronics.
    You have a multi-meter right?

    Bryan

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