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03-15-2006, 07:20 PM #1
Fuel Baffle Sending Unit Repair !
Well, I have had a gremlin on my 1998 GTI fuel system that has had me stumped for about 4 days now (electrical).
I did some troubloeshooting and found that the fuel sending unit baffle had a blown fuse on the internal circuit board.
This is a common problem on Sea-Doo's.
Another common problem I ruled out was the fuel float getting fuel in it making it not float, but it was o.k.
I was able to get access to a blueprint of the circuit board on the Sea-Doo fuel baffles and found there was a fuse that is on the circuit board to protect the board from surges.
A member from www.sea-doo.net & www.pwctoday.com sent it to me.
I know this is not RXP or RXT related, but I want to post pics on what I did to fix it and the repair I done to the fuel baffle by using the plastic welding process.
This repair saved me over 150.00.
The repair of welding plastic can be done on almost anything with the right tip on the soldering iron and patience.
For this repair below, I used a plastic zip-tie to help seal the seam.
A white Zip-tie would have matched better, but this is what I had on hand.
For any of you that own sea-doo's and have the fuel guage stop reading, this is very common problem that occurs.
Top 3 problems are:
* fuel float full of fuel (very common)
* blown F1 fuse on circuit board (very common)
* bad connector on the sending unit plug (rare)
* bad guage (possible)
Once the repair was completed, I was able to obtain an OHM reading of 0.01 - 88.8 (empty-full).
The bar graph on my meter also showed the graduation chage from empty to full as I tipped the baffle from up/down to simulate a fuel level change.
First pic here, I used a Weller Soldering Iron to cut open a hole to get an internal view of the circuit board and the location of the F1 fuse near the top.
Found the fuse and removed it by unsoldering it from its location.
I then filled in the gap with solder where the F1 fuse use to be.
I then use a clamp and proceed to close the flap I opened and begin the solder process.
I begin to solder by using a Weller Soldering Iron with a plastic smearing/welding tip. This is included in all Weller Irons. I've this iron for over 15 years and this tip has come in handy several times for plastic repair.
I used the plastic of the tube to begin the fusing process. I added more plastic by using a Zip-Tie to add more material to help cloe in the seam. Zip-Ties are perfect for making plastic repair weld jobs. It melts at the right rate and is straight like a welding rod for laying in place as you smear it over the seam.
Here is the final job completed. I used 1 8" Zip Tie to complete this job.
Here is what the complete fuel supply assembly looks like.
05-20-2007, 01:18 PM #2
AH HA!!! just what I was wondering about on my GTX.
I was afraid of cutting up the sending unit housing to see what was wrong.
now that I know how to git-er-done.......
05-20-2007, 01:24 PM #3
05-20-2007, 01:36 PM #4
Make sure you replace those crappy fuel lines while your at it or more gremlins will be in your future....
12-16-2007, 01:32 PM #5
- Join Date
- Dec 2007
i just finshed do this to my 96 xp and i was trying to find out what size fuse the one on the broad was so i could put the same one on the wires that are coming out of the top,
if anyone can help it would be a big help
06-16-2009, 07:34 PM #6
I have a bad wire in the epoxy part at the top. The fuse was fine, the magnets were in tact.... I would get different resistance ratings on the two metal connections under the epoxy part, but nothing at the wires themselves.
Also, my fuse was on the other side of the circuit board, and didn't look anything like the one shown here. I will upload pics later.
06-17-2009, 08:48 AM #7
So here is the assembly:
After first cut:
Here is the fuse:
And my plastic float. With the magnets still attached:
06-18-2009, 07:37 PM #8
- Join Date
- Jun 2009
If you have the patience.....
If you don't feel comfortable cutting your baffle and you have the patience, you can also remove the epoxy on top of the baffle. There's only two nuts holding in the circuit board. Once the nuts are exposed and removed the whole thing slides out and you can fix the board. If that's been stated somewhere already forgive me, I'm a newbie to this forum!
06-19-2009, 08:29 AM #9
06-23-2009, 04:15 PM #10
- Join Date
- Jun 2009
Well, the wires and the two nuts I was referring to are in the epoxy. The way I did it was with a small drill bit, an awl and a flat head screwdriver. I started drilling some small/shallow holes on the side, then proceeded to dig/pry the epoxy out. The wires on both of mine were in the middle so be careful not to damage them. If you do, it's easy to fix, but if it's not broke..... Like I said before, it just takes time and patience!
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