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  1. #1
    1996SLTX's Avatar
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    Ski is running great again!

    I fixed the hull damage and changed the plugs today.

    The old plugs had gaps of .018, .022 and .030. New ones are gapped at .025. Starts were really quick and hot starting wasn't an issue at all. It also didn't stall as easily at idle, but it's still fouling up and takes several seconds to clear after leaving the dock. So I need to work on the carbs a little.

    I checked the compression also and from front to back read 112, 120, 119.


  2. #2
    1996SLTX's Avatar
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    Forgot to mention that GPS clocked me at 52 mph with a full tank of gas, 240 lb captain, and a pretty rough bottom since I haven't sanded the fiberglass repair on the bottom not to mention all the other dings on this old gal.

  3. #3
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Try opening the gap to .028
    Check the carbs for sure and see if the reed stuffers are installed in your craft, if they are, the settings on the carbs are different than stock.

  4. #4
    1996SLTX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ph2ocraft View Post
    Try opening the gap to .028
    Check the carbs for sure and see if the reed stuffers are installed in your craft, if they are, the settings on the carbs are different than stock.
    I'll open the gap....thanks...

    What's a reed stuffer? And how do I check them?

    BTW, I never noticed the 3 tits on the hottie....my wife picked it out right away...it's got me thinking now...between you and beerdart, I'm hooked on greenhulk

  5. #5
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    It's a plastic piece that fits inside the reed cages. It's used to increase air velocity through the reeds. You'll either have them or not. You'd need to remove the carbs and intake manifold to see if they were installed. Yeah, PH20 and BD sure do love their triples don't they?

  6. #6
    gary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1996SLTX View Post
    I fixed the hull damage and changed the plugs today.

    The old plugs had gaps of .018, .022 and .030. New ones are gapped at .025. Starts were really quick and hot starting wasn't an issue at all. It also didn't stall as easily at idle, but it's still fouling up and takes several seconds to clear after leaving the dock. So I need to work on the carbs a little.

    I checked the compression also and from front to back read 112, 120, 119.
    hello,im new to polaris skis and have a 97 sltx.my compression numbers are 130,120,130.i thought in the near future i would need a top end rebuild,but after checking the polaris manual,it stated the compression in the middle cylinder should be 10-20 psi lower than the outer two.not sure why polaris designed the engine that way.

    that same manual also states wear limit at 110 outer two,100 middle cylinder.like i said im very new to polaris but with the numbers you posted my first thought might lean towards a top end rebuild.

  7. #7
    xplayer2885's Avatar
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    Have you tride rebuilding the carbs yet. I tore into my carbs this past weekend. They were way worse than i thought. Besides being crusty intside, the n/s showed signs of wear, the arm showed wear signs, the high speed needles were all worn out. Hopfully everything new gives me a new beast.

  8. #8
    1996SLTX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xplayer2885 View Post
    Have you tride rebuilding the carbs yet. I tore into my carbs this past weekend. They were way worse than i thought. Besides being crusty intside, the n/s showed signs of wear, the arm showed wear signs, the high speed needles were all worn out. Hopfully everything new gives me a new beast.

    Is rebuilding the carbs something a novice should think about? I'm good with machines, but I don't have a working knowledge of this kind of work. Looking at all the receipts from the previous two owners, I don't see where the carbs every got serviced.

    Where would I get a rebuild kit? I'd probably wait to do it this winter.

    The ski runs very well, but not silky smooth at the low end. Top end is always there. Low end I've got fouling plugs or plug but overall this ski is 95% fun and 5% scratching my head as I learn about it.

  9. #9
    race24x's Avatar
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    I am no expert and still very new at this but very mechanically inclined. The carbs I think are very simple once you get some tips from the guys on here like I did. On one side there are 4 screws holding a cover on under that is a rubber diaphram under that you can check your needle and seat as well as 2 phillips screws hold a piece of metal shaped sort of like texas down under that is where you will find all the gunk LOL main jet is under there as well as the low speed jet. A small regular screw driver will pull them out and you can shoot carb cleaner through them hold tight and blow anything out. Now forgive me for not being technical but the texas shaped thing has holes and circuits going through it as well as a plastic one way door gizmo LOL I shot carb cleaner through all of that and used canned air to make sure it was clean. be careful of the rubber gasket for the texas looking thing and put it all back together. Flip the carbs over and there is a metal rack holding them all together I believe held on by 4 screws in the bottom of each carb. Take them off but be careful because the carbs will seperate at the linkage that runs them all from one cable. You can put them back together but I thought it was a pain in the butt. Under that 4 screws hold the bottom plates on I put some sand paper light grit on a nice flat 2x6 and cleaned them on that but you may want to ask around cause I am not sure thats oreffered method. Under those are the infamous screens and another rubber seal. I pulled the screens out with my fingers and cleaned them blew them out reassembled. That was about it. Anyone else feel free if there is something I missed cause like I said this is my first watercraft sooooo I may not know what I am doing LOL

  10. #10
    xplayer2885's Avatar
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    Like race24x said, carb rebuilds are easy. Mikuni just makes the exploded view look scary as shit.lol I was worried when i did my friends carbs. Honestly they were cake an it when very smooth. Just use a good screw driver when you go too take the two screws out of the jet block. an you will be fine. Remember to record you hi an low needle seeting befor taking them out

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