Thread: 1996 Waveraider
08-14-2007, 11:01 AM #1
I Just Bought A 1996 Waveraider Like The Title Says But I Dont Know Anything About It
So I Was Hoping That Some Of You Out There Could Tell Me About It And What I Should Do To It Im Wanting To Get Close To 65mph W/o Too Much Money
08-15-2007, 08:03 AM #2
Your going to have to spend $1,500 or more to hit 65mph in my opinion. Bullraider ran 63 on his Raider before the motor got ported. Bigraider, DarthRaider, Bullraider, oldmanraider and addicted will be able to help you and give you some ideas.
08-15-2007, 07:08 PM #3
I'll try to list some things to do starting with the cheapest and work on up.
1. Cut out the two center bars on the intake grate.
2. Cut the stock ride plate flush with the back of the hull. If you don't want to lose the dreamo pickup you can cut the front of the plate off and move it forward (mounts with 4 bolts)
3. Use several washers under the front of the ride plate to change the angle and raise the bow up more.
4. Fill in the bolt holes on the ride plate and sand smooth. (put some tape or rope over the bolts before you fill in so you can knock out the filler if you need to remove the plate)
5. Remove the grey vent tubes from the back and cut air holes in the rear storage bucket.
6. True the hull bottom
7. Fill in the visibility port on the pump reduction nozzle and remove the bilge siphon tube and fill in.(must add electric bilge pump)
7. Replace stock impeller
8. Change pump reduction nozzle with a 5-degree nozzle from a late model GP1200
9. Cut the head down or replace with aftermarket to raise compression.
10. Replace carbs, reeds, cages and manifold with gp1200 parts. (can be found on ebay for cheap)
11. Bore out cylinders to 84mm or pickup a 1200 cylinder
12. Replace electronics with parts from 1200
13. Port cylinders
I'm sure the other guys will have some more ideas for you to try.
08-15-2007, 09:02 PM #4
Good list Matt.
Personally, to keep it cheap, I would do it this way.
Protec shorty ride plate, shimmed as suggested above.
R&D grate. The stocker with 2 bars removed is too impractical for everyday riding, and the R&D for me was faster in all conditions.
pre mix at 50:1. the stock pump dumps waaayyy to much oil down the throats and it affects holeshot and top end by running too rich.
remove siphon and pisser from nozzle as Matt said
That should get you very low 60's consistently.
To go faster, do the rest.
pay attention to the details. Plate angle, filling holes, prop clearance, ect.
Save the porting for later because of the $$, but you probably won't see 65 without it.
08-16-2007, 12:25 PM #5
Ok Great Ill Get Started On All Of These Asap
What Would Be My Approx. Speed If I Did All Of The Suggestions Above?
08-16-2007, 11:58 PM #6
That's a tough one. The raider hull needs absolute perfect glass water to get max speed. Put it like this, if you can do over 60 in real world conditions, and still hold on, you accomplished your goal and earned alot of peoples respect
Mine has a gp1200 intake, solas prop, protec plate, nozzle, and some holes filled. Best so far is 62 in wind ripple water. I almost never see glass, and when I do, it is torn up by everyone else by the time I get out there
10-07-2007, 06:41 AM #7
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
Also I get alot of cavitation at the moment as we go on a 4 hour trip round the island and its out in the open water. Would taking the bars out help this or ,make it worse?
Thanks in advance
07-14-2010, 02:24 AM #8
Hope this helps
07-14-2010, 09:07 AM #9
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Bettendorf, Iowa
Flame arrestors too.
On my 1100 I've added primer kit, Ocean Pro FA's, rejetted, Solas I, and ProTec plate. Don't ask me how it performs because I have yet to get wet because it's not registered. These were all fairly inexpensive mods and can be done at home.
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