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  1. #1

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    what grit sandpaper to use on intake grate etc????

    What grit sandpaper to clean up the intake grate?

    Also, should I use sandpaper to grind down some of the excess silicone that is used on the pump shoe area? If so, what grit should I use? I am assuming that I will have to be extremely careful not to mess up the black paint.

    Any help is appreciated. I took everything apart to try to fix my cavitation and want to do all that I can while it is apart.

    The silicone that is on my pump shoe in the "tunnel" is not very smooth. it is rough when I run my fingers over it on either side next to the shaft. How do I get it smooth? Is is necessary for it to be smooth? I for sure don't want to have to remove the entire shoe and reseal. Should I just add more sealant to try to smoothen it out?
    Last edited by cue03; 08-15-2007 at 08:25 AM.


  2. #2

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    anyone?

  3. #3
    tomgtv's Avatar
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    start with 100 grit

    I'd use 100 grit to see how much material it is taking off.

    Go to 100/200 for pretty smooth surface.

    If you really want to get crazy go to wet sanding with 400+!

    Then get jewler's polish with a Dremel............

  4. #4
    Silence! I Keel You! earthshaker's Avatar
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    Hey Cue,

    The silicone is not going to get smoother with sandpaper...don't even try. Manual removal is the only way i know to removed cured silicone and would suggest unfortunately an exacto blade if you do not remove the pump holder like i did. You can see pics in this link the mating surfaces to get comfortable trimming the excess at the seam then use phenolic scrapers to remove from around your score line.

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...t=28222&page=4

    Very fine Piano wire is also an option to removed cured silicone globs. It works well on outside radiuses or in removing the pump holder all together.

    Use coarse emery paper to remove the heavy casting seams then use brown/grey scotchbrite blending pads (avail at most auto paint supply stores or some marine supply stores) if you do not have dremel or other power tools.

    The scotchbrite pads will conform to the radiuses and are extremely aggressive. Use the maroon scotchbrite for final finishing. You might consider powder coating particularly if you ride in salt since you just went through all the work!



  5. #5
    Formerly Ultra250 TN Aquaholic6801's Avatar
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    I used a file on my intake grate and a regular utilty knife blade to cut out excess silcone in the tunnel area.

  6. #6
    Silence! I Keel You! earthshaker's Avatar
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    He's right....I also used a file for the initial removal of the casting inperfections and moved on from there.

  7. #7

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    Thanks for the info guys. So it is necessary for the silicone to be perfectly smooth? It is completely cleaned up and I have removed anything that is in the way of the pump area etc. What is left behind feels a little rough. I am guessing it won't be an issue and I should see that much performance hit. Right?

    just trying to get clarification.

    As for filing the join points etc on each blade of the intake grate, would I gain anything there or am I just creating work for myself and won't see any benefit (besides maybe personal satisfaction) from doing it.

    Thanks as usual.

    Curtis

  8. #8
    Silence! I Keel You! earthshaker's Avatar
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    It's a sad story for me...have not been on the water since i pulled my pump holder. I'm afraid to look when i posted.

  9. #9
    Formerly Ultra250 TN Aquaholic6801's Avatar
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    Any time you can get a clean flow of water it will help with pump efficency.

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