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  1. #1
    Will work on YOUR ski for FREE! GeoRXT's Avatar
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    Ok I need hull repair help...

    Im tired of spending $800+ on fixing hulls......At least last time it lasted a while....Look at it now...Got pretty messed up at the Ski Fest 3 weeks ago...Never leaving the ski in the water anymore!


    I sanded it a bit with 320 grit....After the pics, but it still looks bad....What can I do?

    That sort of grey patches you will see is epoxy I put on some gashes where you could see the fiberglass....I sanded it a bit but it's still crappy.

    Sorry about the cell phone pics...
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  2. #2
    Are there any deep gouges Geo?

    Some of those areas where you put the epoxy, how deep were the scratches?

    There are SO many scratches but this looks mainly cosmetic. Of course It would be a good idea too repair all that.

    Honestly the best way to go may be to get it off the trailer with a cherry picker and put it on the floor with a blanket as to not scratch the rest of the hull. Then I would prop it from side to side. and repair one side first and then repair the other.

    I'll betcha that there are also scratches and gouges undeneath the area where the bunks are on the trailer as well right?

    You won't be able to efficiently do a repair while on your back and trying to work around the axle, bunks and framing of the trailer.

  3. #3
    Will work on YOUR ski for FREE! GeoRXT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yellow4 View Post
    Are there any deep gouges Geo?

    Some of those areas where you put the epoxy, how deep were the scratches?

    There are SO many scratches but this looks mainly cosmetic. Of course It would be a good idea too repair all that.

    Honestly the best way to go may be to get it off the trailer with a cherry picker and put it on the floor with a blanket as to not scratch the rest of the hull. Then I would prop it from side to side. and repair one side first and then repair the other.

    I'll betcha that there are also scratches and gouges undeneath the area where the bunks are on the trailer as well right?

    You won't be able to efficiently do a repair while on your back and trying to work around the axle, bunks and framing of the trailer.
    I wish I could take it off....There are minimal scratches under one bunk

    Some are a big deeper than others, but not much. The ones I epoxied were the deeper ones.

  4. #4
    My recommendation would be to use the West System Epoxy to repair because for an amateur like me, There is plenty of reading material for cosmetic repairs like this, and the folks at West System are very helpful in helping you to do the repair properly.

    In order to make it look good, consider after doing the filling, repainting the entire bottom at least up to the chines. Then you can blend in the black gelcote with the existing at the chines.

    What's needed for your repair. I'll assume that all your scratches or gounges are 1 - 2mm which doesn't requir new mat or fiberglass.

    Materials.

    1.Get the video from west system, 22 bucks i think which covers eveything. (002-89
    2. Get the instructional pamplet, fiberglass repair (002894) very helpful.
    3. One glallon of the 105 resin. (105B) (You,ll need it)
    4. Resin hardener. If your novice. Using one with a longer working time such as 209 hardener (longest working time) or 206 hardener.
    5. Low density filler material to mix with the epoxy to fill in the low spots. 407 low density fairing filler. The fairing filler will sand fairly easily and finishes well. Don't get the microlight filler. Too weak and not good underneath black gelcote.
    6. flexible putty applicator, like the kind you put bondo on with.
    7. cups to mix they sell them at the website.
    8. 80 grit sandpaper , 150 and 220 grit aluminum oxide if possible.

    The literature is self explanatory. If you need any help pm me. I've been on 8 weeks for my hull redo now. Learned a lot.

    320 grit sandpaper is not enough to key in the epoxy.

    When applying the epoxy you need 80 grit as it is necessary to create enough surface area to really get the epoxy to stick since we are bonding on to polyester resin.

    Then you can fill in with the filler and mixed according to directions, sand and fair, apply clear resin over, wetsand and your ready for gelcote.

    There still a lot of details but if your up for it I would be glad to give you some advice. Good Luck.
    Last edited by yellow4; 08-16-2007 at 11:08 PM.

  5. #5
    Will work on YOUR ski for FREE! GeoRXT's Avatar
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    Wowww....This sounds like an awefull lotta work!...I barely have time to work on the ski sometime so it would take me probably the same time it has taken you to do this!....Hummm....Maybe a winter project...

  6. #6
    wavehummer's Avatar
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    GEO, after you fix the hull...get a keel guard....it's worth it!! And I don't see any loss of performance or speed with it..

  7. #7
    I AM A VERMIN icerat4's Avatar
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    Hi i do these kind of repairs at my bodyshop all the time.Yellow is on target with his info.A job like that here would run ya 500 bucks and the whole lwr hull gets shot.Takes 3 day in shop.Stuff needs to cure good.Make sure stuff is dry and your fiber glass is hard before sanding.And wear a mask when sanding please.O and i put rino liner on the v hull and i beach it all the time .And na da mark Great stuff and no drag.And with that stuff you gota have the right gun and make sure you mix it the right way and also sand with 80 grit for bite.

  8. #8
    Hey G, shibbs has a hull for sale, if your mooded to swap everything out...PR...

    I think it is a GTX limited hull, same as the RXT...

  9. #9
    Will work on YOUR ski for FREE! GeoRXT's Avatar
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    Hummm...u know how much by any chance?

  10. #10
    Too many coronas huh?

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