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  1. #1
    RUNWME's Avatar
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    First every post! What changes will happen by cutting my 94 raider ride plate?

    Hello, My name is David and this is my first post. I live between Wilson and Greenville NC, but mostly ride in Washington North Carolina

    I have owned in past a 96 Seadoo XP with wet nitrous system and several tunnel hull boats, stv, talon and even a 21 foot cougar with twin 300 2.5 drags PLUS 150 alcohol/nitrous per engine ( 900hp on 900 lb bare hull ... wicked quick)

    This week I picked up a 94 purple hulled raider 701 and carried it out. First trip, best GPS was 52 mph and some vibration and porpoising.

    I cut out the stock intake grate to remove center 2 bars. In doing so, found some rope in the impellar which was promptly removed. Tonight seemed to be slightly better hooked up in chop, with top speed of 55.3 gps. It already has a Stainless Steel impellar on it, but I dont know pitch or brand. (whats easiest way to check?)

    Spending less then 100.00 total( its cheap ski to beat around with ) what are best improvements I can do to reduce porpoising, and increase speed. It handles well, with no indication of the right turn syndrom.

    I have been lurking around the forums and read that cutting the stock plate flush with hull increases speed while also decreasing bounce in chop. Is this pretty much the case?


    Other things I will do ( unless forbidden by those who know better ) will be to remove some screen from spark arrestor, remove rear bucket ( to allow more air to engine ) remove choke plates and install the wet nitrous system from my seadoo. Most likely this will require repitching the impellar, but will have to see how many rpms 40hp (20 per hole) shot increases rpm.

    Are there any other FREEBIE performance or chop hookup performance adders?


    Also, very few people like nitrous, but if set to run rich and in small amounts, its relatively safe and adds tremendous OOOOMPH on acceleration!


  2. #2
    cheatin' piston popper addicted's Avatar
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    welcome.

    a shorter plate will get you speed, but it will want to porpoise more. It's all about finding the right angle by shimming the plate with washers.

    I prefer an r&d aquavein grate. Helps hookup tremendously.

    Look at your prop. if it has a hex on the front, it is stock. if it has a removable cone, it is after market. You really need to pull the pump to find out more.

    flame arrestor mod probably won't be noticeable unless you go full after market.

    rear bucket, good idea, but impractical IMHO.

    $100 isn't much, but ebay is the place if you are patient.

  3. #3
    RUNWME's Avatar
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    Thanks for the welcome I like being a participant more then just guest lurker.

    The bounce doesn't bother me so much.. here in the south with 110 heat index the associated refreshing spray is welcomed.

    What does bother me is the sucking air, and leap frogging because of pump unloading. I will leave long and add shim to the BACK(?) of ride plate to push nose down and keep my eyes peeled for a used waveraider loader style intake grate. Ride quality is more important the speed to me since I won't be running with fast guys anyway.

    The prop ( looking at it from intake side ) does have hex where you could put wrench on it. I didn't realize they came stock with SS impellars, but I guess mine must be.

    @@ note... didn't see the Aquavein on ebay, so posted WTB in classifieds.... I imagine any loader grate worx riva pro-tec ect would be better then stock in chop? Will also get a tiny tach to track any progress
    Last edited by RUNWME; 08-17-2007 at 07:23 AM.

  4. #4
    jetskier90's Avatar
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    yeah post any cheap/DIY mods you figure out, I also have a 94 raider that I'm trying to improve on a budget.

  5. #5
    RUNWME's Avatar
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    sure... cheap mods soo far...
    Bone stock... 52
    cutter out center 2 bars of grate
    and cleaning impellar 55.3
    Remove rear water box and clean out (had sand in it), remove 1 ( of the 3 intake screens) file burrs off impeller ( wasnt bad, but had some nicks)
    55.9
    3.9 mph with no money spent so far. I do not know if screen had any effect on top end, but it seems to come off idle for initial punch with more authority, but that could also have just been from cleaning out waterbox.

    Riding in chop, putting my weight as far forward as possible made huge difference on it being hooked up. This is only 3rd time out with it, so learning everytime. Still riding all the time with trim in neutral.

    Next step this week will be to seal pump, grate, rideplate and bolt heads and see if that helps?

    Anyone else with cheap/free tips, please chime in.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by addicted View Post
    welcome.

    Look at your prop. if it has a hex on the front, it is stock. if it has a removable cone, it is after market. You really need to pull the pump to find out more.

    .
    The stock impeller is stainless, however, the Skat Traks have a hex on the front too, just like stock, but the Scat has a brushed finish, whereas the stock has a cast like, or glass beaded like finish.

  7. #7
    jetskier90's Avatar
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    sorry for the newb question but how do you get the stock waterbox out/where is it, it seems like it's behind the wall in the back????

  8. #8
    cheatin' piston popper addicted's Avatar
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    remove the rear bucket, fire ext. tube, and then wiggle it out.

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