Thread: rust on crank snout taper
08-16-2007, 10:31 PM #1
rust on crank snout taper
It looks like surface rust but after a clean up, looks like it did pit and corrode the snout taper a little.
With the tendancy to snap off the crank snout, would you guys trust this low hour crank with a little corrosion on the flywheel taper.
08-16-2007, 10:47 PM #2
Whats the rubber gasket on the stator cover look like?
08-16-2007, 10:57 PM #3
Stator cover o ring gasket is perfect woody.
Not sure how water got in there.
Had this ski since it was new and it only has 35hours....never got or gets any water in the hull. This boat only goes to the calm water river.
I had a ocean beater ski that got salt water in it all the time and it didn't have any rust on the crank snout, go figure?
08-16-2007, 11:02 PM #4
I use water based,low grit, valve grinding paste and lap the flywheel.They clean up good.Might check the starter base seal while its apart.
08-17-2007, 11:48 AM #5
I did clean it up with a scotch brite pad, a wire wheel, some emery cloth and a little wd-40 after the pics where taken, but some corrosion has eaten/pitted into the snout.
So would you trust that slightly corroded pitted crank snout in your motor ???
Know you are trying to help Woody thankyou, and hate to be argumentative, but my opinion on lapping the flywheel is the same as RAD's,
plain as day in their
installation manual as things not to do
"Voids the warranty" if you lap.
08-17-2007, 02:10 PM #6
There are pros and cons of lapping.Ive done it many times ONLY a very light lap,just to make sure they mate 100%. If your pitting is severe,IMO i would consider another crank.If the pitting is minor,i would do a LIGHT LAP,more of a clean up,to remove any slight imperfections.This is your choice only,im just giving my experience that has worked time and time again.
08-17-2007, 05:11 PM #7
Thanks woody, appreciate your advice. You are probably 100% right and the pitting is enough that it should be replaced.
Boat is going to be a triple pipe ported 1300, hopefully TJ ported. It will have a light rad charging flywheel so less stress will be on the crank snout.
Wondering whether corrosion/pitting are right at the place where the flywheel/snout cracks off the front web. Searched for some of the pics that have been posted but can't find any that show exactly where they break off.
What is your opinion on cranks.
A rebuilt trued and welded from crankworks with the large front bearing upgrade
a new OEM Yamaha trued and welded.
Who does the best crank for the gpr nowadays?
08-18-2007, 08:05 AM #8
I'd say if your snout hasn't busted by now, you are fine. I'm just guessing here, but my opinion is that the whole snout breaking thing is mostly brought on by the flywheel.
I'd lap the same flywheel and snout and run with it. Make sure to put on some locktite...
and find that water leak...
08-18-2007, 08:05 AM #9
...and that rad will be cracked within 20 hours.
08-18-2007, 08:14 AM #10
Any idea on why the Rad wheels crack.
Anything to do that will prevent the rad from cracking or should i just can it
How about the crankworks large front bearing crank mod?
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