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  1. #1
    msarge's Avatar
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    Yamaha VX110 Engine Removal

    Before I found this site I was on PWCtoday and RIVA. I am having trouble with the stator on my VX110 and a user on one of those forums has been a big help. After troubleshooting I determined that the stator was bad on my VX110. Now I had to ask how do you get it out. That's when user Billcosca gave me his step by step process of getting the engine out in 15 minutes!
    So my actual question is do you guys want his removal process posted on Green Hulk?


  2. #2
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    Fell free to post it

  3. #3
    msarge's Avatar
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    Billcosca's 15 minute VX110 engine removal

    Here is Bill's procedure (side note, Bill is from another country so I cleaned it up as best I could):

    • Remove the intake manifold by loosing the 4 clamps from the boots, single intake (air box boot) and move to the side don’t pull these out and (2) 12mm bolts on the brackets all in one piece flipped outside down and unplug the negative plugs (2) attach to the oil tank and the 2 sensors next to them disconnect and cut the zip tie holding the cam position sensor attached to the fuel rail disconnect.
    • Disconnect the 4 plugs on the front of the engine, 2 attach to the front bracket one to the throttle body and the one attach to the overturn sensor next to the fuse box.
    • Now put the all intake and fuel rail to the side of the ski.
    • Do not disconnect the fuel hose now. You can see the cdi and regulator, only remove the front 12mm bolt, and disconnect the 2 connectors to the stator leave the other wire connected and bring all wire harness and cdi/reg to the other side of the ski.
    • Remove the coupler cover and disconnect the water inlet hose under the coupler.
    • Disconnect the hose in front of the pipe (by the air box) and the big hose on top of the valve cover (this hose has a zip tie hidden next to the oil tank, cut the tie exhaust side remove the clamp on the water box side of the elbow and the one in the engine side on the end of the pipe lift the back of the water box and pushed to the back remove the elbow.
    • Remove the 4 bolts holding the engine to the motor mounts. Remove the negative wire from the battery the post.
    • Push the engine to the front until you clear the coupler now you can pull the engine out. Before it comes all the way out and when is on top of the ski disconnect the + from the starter (do not forget to reconnected before you lower the engine back in the ski).
    • Remove all the oil from the engine, there is a 13 mm bolt under the oil pump all the oil will come out. Do not look for this bolt in any manual the bolt does not exist since it is against coast guard regulations. It is the only 13mm back there.
    • Use hi temp silicone to re install since the washer will be trashed by electrolysis. I do not use any washer when I put these back.
    • Also, do not put back the oil filter until you have the engine back in the hull. It is easy this way but the engine came in and out with the filter but you may scratch the filter on installation and this will lead to a hole from a rusty filter since it is not stainless.
    • To remove the stator you will need a 8mm a 5 mm and a 4 mm allen key and loctite to re install the bolts.
    • Reverse all the process to re install.
    • Look at the coupler to align the engine side to side.
    • Re install the shims on the same position. I guess I did not forget any part. However, if I did I am sure you will figure out.
    • I am sure you will not do these in 15 minutes. Since I do these all the time, it is not as difficult as they look. You can order the stator from a dealer for around $370 or I can sell you one for 300 + shipping.
    • Check the regulator when you remove and look at all 6 pins. They all have to be the same color. If one is dark, (the one on the corner) the regulator is probably bad.
    • On the stator if you removed from the cover you will see the burn wires on the back. You cannot see these until you remove the stator.

    Hope this helps someone.

  4. #4
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    good post and BTW we have experienced Cosca-ease here he is a great guy.

  5. #5
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    great information

    I broke it up into bullets to make it easier to read.

  6. #6
    msarge's Avatar
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    Thanks, that does make it more readable.

    Thanks to Bill for sharing the wealth!!

  7. #7
    msarge's Avatar
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    When I was diagnosing my charging problem Bill swore that it would be the stator. However after doing all the checks (all checked good) I wasn't convinced! I had to pull the stator just to see for myself! Hopefully the pictures will do Bill justice cause he was right! Once I took it off and flipped it over.........well, just see for yourself!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #8
    RSM's Avatar
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    Really good info guys!
    Thanks...........

    RSM

  9. #9
    South Atlanta white trash MILF Hunta's Avatar
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    great post

  10. #10
    KyleP's Avatar
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    removal steps

    these steps are full of shit me and my boy never only removed the reduction pipe and have my engine out in 10 mins but thats cuz we kno what we are doing and have the engine in my gpr hull in 5 mis

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