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  1. #1
    sea~smith sea~smith's Avatar
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    Any advice for my first rebuild?

    Hey everyone,

    I bought an 1996 sl900 2 weeks ago and everything was pretty good. The compression in the pto cylinder was 130 then 90 and about 100/110 in the front. I knew this wasnt great but the ski still ran quite well, other than initial starts and idling. During idle the ski lasted 4-5 seconds and then just faded out to a stop. The seller suggested even before I bought the ski, that the carbs needed to be rebuild. He said the engine was rebuilt, but from what I see, I think he only replaced the pto piston. I remmeber the rpm's being high 5000s to low 6000s BEFORE IT HAPPENED! I blew the mag piston up as you will see in my pictures, and am now thinking of replacing the center and mag pistons and honing all 3 (the pto setup still looks good, I think it is the one he replaced). I will also be rebuilding the carbs and fixing the display myself.

    Can anybody also comment on the wear that is occuring on the areas beside the crank arms? the wear on the mag is slightly more obvious than the wear on the pto. The center one is fine.

    Since I am only 2 weeks into ski-dooing, this will be ALOT of firsts for me. The good news is my tool collection is getting better every day, the bad news is my bank account is going to get shalacked lol. but as they say, when you buy a watercraft you buy a hole in the lake...and fill it with money until the very end...

    Thanks

    Cal
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  2. #2
    axgrider73's Avatar
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    Do you have a service manual yet? If not, you might consider getting one.

    can you post some pictures of the inside of the cylinders?

  3. #3
    sea~smith sea~smith's Avatar
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    The 2nd and 3rd cylinder are fine, 2 should be ok with a hone and new piston etc. cylinder 1 as you can see in the picture, has some excess material where the piston reaches TDC , probably remanants of the melted material of the fried piston?... The line below the exhaust port is just grease, it was not a crack, so dont worry about it. Other than the area at the top with the excess material, there were no severe changes to the wall.
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  4. #4
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    The cyl that the piston burnt down in may be able to be cleaned up with a hone as long as there are no deep scratches in it.If it's alumium it should hone off,But It'll have to be checked that it's still in round afterwards.Go to Autozone and borrow a hone,All it will cost is time to try. Some side to side clearance is acceptable on the rod.

  5. #5
    axgrider73's Avatar
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    Have you gotten any further on this?

  6. #6
    Jug Inspector
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keddano View Post
    The cyl that the piston burnt down in may be able to be cleaned up with a hone as long as there are no deep scratches in it.If it's alumium it should hone off,But It'll have to be checked that it's still in round afterwards.Go to Autozone and borrow a hone,All it will cost is time to try. Some side to side clearance is acceptable on the rod.
    It is suggested NOT to use a hone to remove aluminum deposits from a cylinder wall. It creates uneven wear inside the cylinder as it goes over the aluminum bumps. You don't want that.

    Carefully use Muriatic Acid, It will remove the aluminum transfer but not harm the cylinder walls. Notice I said CAREFULLY becuase it will eat your jugs as well.

  7. #7

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    bore out the jugs , an ill sell you a 1050 top end cheap

  8. #8
    I would take it back and kick it off on the sellers front porch. You got hosed.

  9. #9
    sea~smith sea~smith's Avatar
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    hahaahah hosed is right. The good news is I am learning alot and I have some standing bets with friends that I can get it running without bringing it in to a mechanic.

    Is it ok to use used pistons in a newly bored cylinder? I have been offered a top end as you can see above and just wanted to see if you had any insight on that. You guys are all really trustworthy (unlike the seller who will be getting a nice rating to add to his 100% feedback ) anyways, I just wanted to verify.

  10. #10
    sea~smith sea~smith's Avatar
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    converting up to a 1050

    I will be buying a top end for a 1050 and was wondering if it is necessary to have 40mm carbs? I currently have 38mm, can I just rejet the 38s? Or do I need new carbs?

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