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  1. #1
    sea~smith sea~smith's Avatar
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    ***if you are planning on repairing MFD READ THIS***

    Hey all,

    For the past 2 days I have been working on fixing my multi function display. I followed christian79's instruction (very well written) however after BARELY missing destroying my mfd during the process I had to reconsider my options. The one thing I was not a fan of with the current repair method was the fact that while prying the clear front off, the blade at times, came very close to the lcd screen and flexed it several times (makes those funny spots like when you touch a computer screen). For the life of me I could not get the clear screen seperated from the body of the display, and I am quite good with a dremel and this type of work. It appears that the processes during the making of these displays was sometimes off, because as you will see in a picture I will add tomrrow, there was an area of the front of the mfd that I would never haev gotten off because of some glue that was used.

    I have developped a 2nd way of opening the mfd which does not look as professional as the current method, however you would never know the part had been worked on once back in the handle bar. I cut JUST BELOW the black plastic rim instead of between the black rim and the clear front. (I actually did cut between the rim and the clear screen, however I could not get it to work for me!) Here are the advantages to this new method:

    1. you never need to get too close to electrical circuitry of the mode and set buttons (take a look at how close christian79 had to cut). Now that I think of it, the front bezel doesnt even need to be removed, since we are bypassing the whole area.

    2. The method honestly takes 20 minutes, I actually did both on my unit and believe me, the cut between the lip and the clear front is terrifying when you take into consideration that these units arent made anymore and go for $$$$$

    3. If you arent confident in your skills, my way is the way to go, it stays clear of all circuits and of the lcd screen, if you hit that screen with a dremel, its game over after all that effort (I nicked mine because I went too far)

    4. I used marine goop to attach both pieces together again, this stuff is great to work with and almost feels like caulking while you use your finger to seal it all up. This method also makes reaccessing the circuit board again MUCH EASIER. Goop holds very well but can also be cut easily with a knife, wheras epoxy is super tough, and there you go prying on an already weakened front area again.

    In all, the methods laid out by christian79 were perfect in every way, the cleaning and everything were spot on, I just wanted to give you guys a second option for what I think is the hardest step in the process. I will post the final product tomorrow as well as a picture of where I cut, all other pictures were well documented in the christian79 post.

    Good luck

    Callan


    [Update by K447]
    See this post for addition information and more photos.
    Last edited by K447; 06-11-2015 at 09:41 PM.


  2. #2
    Get some pics up ASAP

  3. #3
    Its better to burn out than fade away christian79's Avatar
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    Good idea this is what a forum is about.

    Also I noticed that the two screen screws that need to be tightened seem to be accessible without opening the case. You have to drill out the two raised circles in the back and use a small screw driver and then glue in some rubber plugs. However, this will only fix your problems if the screws are your only issue. Also this is just an idea I have NOT verified this.

    Good luck

    Alex

  4. #4
    yep, thats the best way to do it.

    cut it right in the middle of the lip, you gotta epoxy it back together anyway.

  5. #5
    axgrider73's Avatar
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    Where you able to get any pictures?

  6. #6
    sea~smith sea~smith's Avatar
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    hey guys I had a but of an accident with the digital camera and Im seeing if I can scheme a way of getting it covered under warranty, I will try getting the pictures asap.

    Sorry bout that.

  7. #7
    axgrider73's Avatar
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    You might try your homeowners policy.

  8. #8

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    This is great info! my mfd was having problems. It was missing several pieces of the display. for example the trim indicator has several bars showing where the trim was and a couple of bars were absent things like that I could hardly read it. After looking at christian 79 and this post I decided to try the procedure myself. I tried cutting in between the clear a black parts, but for some reason I couldnt get the bottom to seperate. So I tried the cut behind the black lip and it worked much better not only was it much faster but the cuts were a quarter of the depth! anyway I cleaned the contacts and reassembled and it worked perfect! Every character lit up very dark. The only thing that I can't figure out is that the fuel and oil gauges dont show anything. When I turn the display on they light up but when it goes to normal after a second the fuel and oil show nothing does anybody have any advise on this? I think I should mention that I have a 12 to 8 pin adapter on the gauge maybe that's why? any help would be great thanks!

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by explude View Post
    This is great info! my mfd was having problems. It was missing several pieces of the display. for example the trim indicator has several bars showing where the trim was and a couple of bars were absent things like that I could hardly read it. After looking at christian 79 and this post I decided to try the procedure myself. I tried cutting in between the clear a black parts, but for some reason I couldnt get the bottom to seperate. So I tried the cut behind the black lip and it worked much better not only was it much faster but the cuts were a quarter of the depth! anyway I cleaned the contacts and reassembled and it worked perfect! Every character lit up very dark. The only thing that I can't figure out is that the fuel and oil gauges dont show anything. When I turn the display on they light up but when it goes to normal after a second the fuel and oil show nothing does anybody have any advise on this? I think I should mention that I have a 12 to 8 pin adapter on the gauge maybe that's why? any help would be great thanks!
    Thanks everyone. I did this today (the Christian way) and found that I too had problems seperating the Clear from the black plastic. But butchered away and finally got it.
    I too would try the second method if the chance arose again.
    To dry out the Desicant I used a hot air gun in a drawer of my table for 5 minutes to draw out the moisture. I also cleaned the contacts with some cct board spray. Glued it all back together and away it went.

    The fuel sensor of the 97 SLTX1050 was not showing a resistance reading of 24-300 ohms across the pink and black wires at the MFD connection. So I'll probably have a stuffed fuel sensor. Job for next time.

    The oil tank has been removed so I'm not fussed about the oil level on the MFD working or not.

    Also my RPM's isn't working, so I could use some help on that if anyone can post a link???

    The Voltage is way out by at least 3volts. I noticed that there are 2 adjustable pots on the circuit board. Does anyone know what they do??

    If anyone is in Brisbane Australia and wants this done give me a buzz anytime. Takes about 2 hours. Happy to help out.

    This forum ROCKS. Thanks yet again EVERYONE!!!!!!!

  10. #10

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    Does anyone know what the 2 adjustable potentiometers on the back of the MFD display circuit board do?? (Polaris SLTX1997)

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