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  1. #1

    New(old) slt 750

    Hey everyone, I just picked up 1994 polaris slt 750 from one of my friends that he replaced with a Sea-doo wake and RXP. So i get the old one haha.

    I havent taken it for a test ride yet, but my friend said it was losing power while turning and it was accelerating at about 30% of what it used to. I ordered the Clymer's manual but im too anxious to wait for it to start working on it.

    So far im pretty sure the drive shaft bearings are shot, and i dont think the rear cylinder is firing, but it still runs.

    So basically, are there any tricks to getting the drive off to replace the bearings and inspect the impeller/stator? I've got everything disconnected but that damn blue sealant is the best stuff ive ever seen after working on boats for 5 years.


  2. #2
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Cleveland OH
    I'm not sure what your disconnecting with the blue sealant. Remove the steering cable, trim rod from steering nozzle, disconnect the 3/4" hose inside the hull from the pump, and the 4 bolts closest to the exit of the jet pump. DO NOT remove the 4 nuts that attch the pump to hull!!! Grab hold and pull. Don't lose the little rubber bumpers from each end of the drive shaft. If it doesn't come out, give it a yank, she'll go.

  3. #3
    You're making this sound way too easy haha. I've been spraying it with pb blaster and tapping on it for 2 days, i guess 13 years of corrosion doesn't help with making this easy

  4. #4
    SL750(& others)Pump Bearing & Seals Replacement Instructions
    í95 SL 750, How to Do, a Jet Pump Bearing/Seal Replacement

    Replacing the bearings and seals is pretty straight forward job if you have the proper tools.
    After removing the pump assy from the ski, disassemble far enough to get the rear cone off. Put it in a vise, and using the special tool (about $10.00) remove the impeller, (cc/w).

    You can now punch out the bearings and seals by using about a 6-8 inch long punch (using a good size hammer). There is ample room to move the spacer around, it seems easier to go through the middle of it vs. the side of it (Clymer) to drive them out.

    Next de-grease and clean up the housing.

    Put housing in an oven for about 45 minutes that was pre-heated to 212 degrees F.

    While this is heating, put the bearings in a freezer for about the same length of time.

    Now it is ready to assemble. The bearings will almost slide in with hand pressure; you might have to nudge with a hammer/socket (pushing on the outer race). Donít forget to install the spacer.

    When both bearings are in, let it cool for a while. Insert the first forward seal (socket/hammer on out side edges of seal) pack marine grease in the cavity (between the seals) and install the next seal.

    Installing the impeller requires the special tool(same one used for the removal) and a torque wrench that go to 100 foot-pounds.

    Assemble the rest with all new seals.

    Total cost for this project was around $100.00(using all Polaris seals/bearings)

  5. #5
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Cleveland OH
    If it's been in saltwater, it will be much more difficult to disassemble. I take for granite the freshwater. I've gotten saltwater pump parts before that were half rotted, and swollen at the same time. Good luck.

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