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  1. #1

    Question 01 Virage crankshaft seal test & engine timing


    I need help. After 4 frustrating years (they have broken down at least every 10 hours if not more fequently) owning 2 very used (salt water rental units with 400+ hours when I bought them = Bad decision on my part) 2001 Polaris Virage, I hope & pray I am finally getting them to be reliable. I am replacing the stator in both because one has killed 3 CDI units and the other has killed 1 CDI but now lost all spark.
    After a very aggressive fight (I did finally win after 8 hours) getting the fly wheel off while the engine is still in the PWC (broke 2 puller bolts, beat on the center puller bolt too much and mushroomed the bolt end so the socket wouldn't fit, tried an air impact wrench = broke anothe puller bolt, added heat after moving the gas tank forward 6" and runing an exhaust fan for 2 hours to remove explosive gas fumes, added 2 feet long cheater pipes to the 1/2" breaker bar and 1 -1/2 inch wrench holding the puller stationary, finnally while the darn flywheel was hot ( 8 minutes with a small propane torch) I put every thing my 6'3" 220lb body had on the 2' cheater pipes and got it to braek loose!!!, now the crankshaft end threades are swelled by .010" so I'll have to file and rechase them, thanks alot "MURPHY").

    1) how can I test the crankshaft seal to see if the heat damaged it? (maybe air presuure, if so, how much pressure for how long?)

    2) I just installed a new CDI in one PWC and had swapped the CDI from the other PWC to trouble shoot the problem. My Polaris dealer says I do not need to worry about the engine timing because it will re-time itself. The repair manual says to recheck/adjust the timing. Should I pay my polaris dealer to check the timing with their super special instrument?


    Lindey - (just trying to let all 9 of our kids and their friends have some fun in Ohio)

  2. #2
    axgrider73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Southeast Ohio
    In the future when pulling the flywheel, take the flywheel bolt out and remove the washer, then re-insert the bolt. That way the puller rest on the head of the bolt and doesn't booger up the threads.

    How did you hold the crank to keep it from turning?

    As far as the crank seal goes, do you really want to trust a used crank seal? Replace it ($15). Then you can pressure test the rest on the engine for piece of mind.

    You should be able to set the timing with a standard timing light. Check the Tech Section for a lot of good info.

  3. #3
    The puller I used was a harmonic balancer puller. It has a 4th lug that I put a 1.25" boxed end wrench on. I added 2' of cheater pipe to the wrench to hold the crank still. Thanks, for the tip.

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