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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    18

    Challenger 180: RPM reduced during turns

    Does anyone know how to bypass the RPM reduction that happens when turning on the Challenger 180? This is a very annoying safety feature!

    Does the Speedster 150 or Speedster 200 do the same thing?

    Thanks for your replies!


  2. #2
    I don't think its a safety feature, its physics at work. There is nothing electronic connecting the steering to the throttle as far as I know. If anyone knows different, please correct me.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    18
    Thanks DougT..........I was 'hoping' that it wasn't from the hull design, and it was just some safety setting. That whole physics thing just sucks!
    I wish I would have bought a 150 speedster instead!

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Tarpon Springs, FL
    Posts
    72
    I would almost bet that all jetboats do this. I know on my Utopia it does this also. Its not so much hull design as the design of the intake area.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Lakeland, FL
    Posts
    1,414
    And because of the direction the prop is spinning, turning in one direction will slow the boat more than the other direction. Either way you turn will produce more hull drag, but turning right favorably loads the pump, and turning left unfavorably loads the pump in relation to the prop. (if I remember correctly)

  6. #6
    I can tell you how to bypass the RPM reduction/physics of a C180 to a great degree, I just fixed mine yesterday
    Go buy a 3 inch ractive or K&N filter along with a piece of 3 inch outer diameter muffler pipe about 4 inches long.
    Unhook and remove flexible rubber hose from superchhharger, turn it around and install the opposite end of rubber hose to supercharger ensuring hose points up and to the left of engine as viewed from inside of boat.The hose should run on the engine side of rubber exhaust hose.
    Connect filter using muffler pipe, I took a file and tapered the inside of the muffler pipe to reduce turbulance.
    This leaves filter almost as high in the engine compartment as the stock location and farther away from any water that may splash in from the side cowl.

    Last step was to remove the rectifier mounted to top of airbox, flip it over and put screws back in. This gets the cooling fins of rectifier into cooler air so it wont burn out from being stuck in the box. I am going to mount a 12v computer fan to the top of the fins for extra insurance today.

    As for the results the engine gained 300 rpm, 2mph and when the steering wheel was cut hard I only lost a fraction of the power I used to with the stock intake connected.
    I really could not believe the results from just a filter.

    I was also worried about increased noise level but my wife agrees that it is only a negligible amount louder if any.

    Next mod, when there is some spare cash, is a solas 14/19 or 15/20 impeller just not sure which one yet. Need to read some more.
    Last edited by cfnnslsq; 08-31-2007 at 08:57 AM.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Lakeland, FL
    Posts
    1,414
    Next mod, when there is some spare cash, is a solas 14/19 or 15/20 impeller just not sure which one yet. Need to read some more.
    You'll either need an external intercooler or ECU upgrade to spin the 15/20. With just the intake upgrade, even handling the 14/19 could be a stretch for a boat (but a slight repitch would make it perfect).

  8. #8

    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Northern VA
    Posts
    85
    all boats get loaded harder in a turn and will loose rpms....

  9. #9
    VX1, thanks for your input, I was leaning toward the 14/19 anyhow as that is what solas recommends for my boat in stock form. Do you really think I will still have issues turning it if that is what solas suggests?
    With the intake upgrade I now have a slight cavatation with the stock impeller, and both impeller and wear ring are in perfect condition.
    Also If I have to repitch can you give any suggestions how to go about it?
    Thanks.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Lakeland, FL
    Posts
    1,414
    cfnnslsq - How did you get the recommendation for 14/19 on a (pretty much) stock 180? That's what they recommend for a much, much lighter stage 1 RXP. Typically, their recommendations are for the 11/19 on the non-supercharged boats, and 13/18 for the supercharged. Personally, I put in the 13/18, and it was absolutely perfect (out of the world acceleration), until I started adding more power and was hitting the rev limiter hard. But, like I mentioned, you can get the 14/19, but just be prepared to have to pitch it down a little (but try it first before repitching).

    Repitching is easy. If you want to get scientific about it, there's a Watcon pitch gauge available, but it's really expensive for a little piece of plastic (~$180). Just get an accurate ruler with milimeters, place the prop an a flat table and measure the distance from the table to the corner of the trailing edge of each blade. Then put your Solas prop removal tool (which you'll need to change props, another easy job) in a vise and placed the prop on the prop tool. You take a crescent wrench and bend the last trailing inch of each blade up or down, depending on which way you need to pitch. I forget which way you'll have to go to pitch down, but theres a couple of threads in the how-to section that describe this.

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