08-29-2007, 04:53 PM #1
ok,what works with what? coil/cdi questions
a few questions for all the polaris guru's out there.i have a 97sltx,it's developed a spark issue.so im looking at e-bay and see whole box'es,2 say sltx/sl.....after looking up the coil/cdi polaris pn's.they dont match.
so my question is,do all 900/1050 boxes use the same coil/cdi's and polaris just gives each model/year a new number,or are the sellers of these boxes just not know what their talking about?
will these boxes work on my ski?......are there any that can be used?or do i have to get the exact pn?
any help would be great.thank you,Gary
Last edited by gary; 08-29-2007 at 05:12 PM.
08-29-2007, 05:11 PM #2
Easy and Difficult question there. Easy - yes, any 900 and 1050 will work for you. Difficult - each part number is actually different, although not by much. What actually differs is the programming within the CDI itself. This is the timing / ignition portion of the programming. Also rev limiters are different for different models as well. If the CDI that you are getting has a different power curve programmed into it, you MAY need to readjust your jets a little to make up for the difference. The difference may be so small that you would never notice, but then again......
08-29-2007, 05:16 PM #3
Do yourself a favor and buy the "updated" ignition kit $300. Consists of stator and CDI. The newer CDIs will not work with the older stators. You have the newer stator if the CDI box has an RS232 port on the bottom of it. Your ignition woes probably lie in a defective stator, not the CDI.
08-29-2007, 06:35 PM #4
i was thinking that also,but im trying to be lazy i guess and hope the stator is good so i dont have to pull the engine to replace it.
your probably right on the stator being the problem though.i was doing a spark test using a spark plug tester,got good spark to the front cyl,weak spark in the middle,and no spark that i could see on the rear cyl.all with the tester.
if i leave the plug in the boot and ground it i get spark on all three,the rear being very weak,middle just weak,and the front seems pretty strong.
just as a hope im thinking of replacing the coil to see if i get lucky.
08-29-2007, 06:44 PM #5
It is alot easier to pull the gas tank than to remove the engine. It is a little difficult to reach, but still alot easier.
08-29-2007, 06:52 PM #6
I'm assuming your stator would test like a 650/750 motor. Have you checked your resistance values through the coils? Super simple, just crack open the e-box and test those wires that plug into the CDI. I recently had a complete break on one of my wires but the motor still ran, pretty badly though.
All readings +- 10%
Alternator Coil - Red/Purple to Yellow
Spec- .6 oms
Trigger Coil - White/Yellow to Black
Spec- 220 ohms
Exciter Coil - Red/White to Green/Red
Spec- 490 ohms
Pulser Coil - Blue/Red to Red/White
Spec- 90 ohms
08-29-2007, 07:31 PM #7
I've got the ignition coil from my 96 SLTX and it looks like the 97 uses the same box. I did the ignition upgrade after I had no spark at all. If you want to try my box, let me know.
If you change the stator, do the ignition upgrade. I got mine from Atlantic Powersports for about $280.
I pulled the gas tank and I'm happy I did. You have to remove the 4 bolts holding the gas tank down, 1/2" bolts, and muscle it forward. I took mine out completely so I could take the oil tank out. It's a b-otch to move the gas tank forward.
I used a craftsman flywheel puller that will get the job done but won't last more that 2 or 3 uses.
When you're there be sure to grease up the starter bendix.
08-30-2007, 10:29 AM #8
ok,im still a bit new to polaris so bear with me awhile,the updated ignition is decribed as update 98......so is a 98 stock ignition the same unit?if so i ave a line on one.stator and box.will this cure my ills?could save me about $100 than buying new.
08-30-2007, 10:34 AM #9
08-30-2007, 02:15 PM #10
I'd disconnect the battery. On mine it's the only way to get the e-box out of the hull a little bit for some working room too. For each coil you're testing, identify the correct color wires from the stator to the CDI and unplug them, then put a probe in each one noting the resistance it gives you.
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