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  1. #1
    jcc011185's Avatar
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    REAL QUICK help needed... ultra 150 intake grate removal?

    How do you get the thing off? I see it has two bolts up front, but as it connects to the ride plate, I cannot tell how this thing removes? I looked at a picture of a grate online, and it appears to have two holes in the rear section, but I'm not seeing any on the ride plate???

    I wanted to have it removed for some testing tommorrow at the lake, so time is of the essence.

    I have a 2000 ultra 150 btw.


  2. #2
    btldigger's Avatar
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    2 are toward the front where you can see them the other 2 are under the front of the ride plate. You have to take off the ride plate to get them. Running without a grate would be a bad idea if thats what you are thinking.

  3. #3
    jcc011185's Avatar
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    That's what I was thinking, I was going to get some gps speeds with and without as I could do with ALL of my previous skis.... except this one. FUCK that! What kind of hell.. you have to remove teh whole damn ride plate just to get to removing the grate! Hell no, never mind! Now, onto my next question, what is safe to silicone and what is not? Now that I have the grate partially off and I will be re-installing, I was wondering it it'd be safe to silicone all the bolt holes, etc. There are two hole that go through the ride plate into the pump.. I'm assuming no silicone should touch these?

    Thanks,
    Jared

  4. #4
    btldigger's Avatar
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    Opinions vary on filling those holes I do know the shredmaster blocks them so you could fill them. But the silacone probably wont cure well enough by tomorow to stay in. Here are a few pics first is how to seal the ride plate the other 2 are the bottom of mine and what I did. You could pull your grate and mod it, that works well in flat water.
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  5. #5
    jcc011185's Avatar
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    That's very funny, cuz I filled in those holes first after I got the ski, BAD BAD BAD cavitation, the ski would stand still before taking off.. I pulled it up the ramp and scraped the silicone out with a screw driver I also did in between the plate and the grate, and I think it attributed to the cavitation.... It completly stumped my and that's why I asked... what else could cause cavitation? It's back to normal now, just maybe a split second of cavitation before it takes off. Still getting upper 64's and a 65 on a low tank of gas, and it is a 00 model without the race ignition and expensive plugs. The impeller looks ok, maybe just a couple VERY slight marks on the edges, nothing that I would think would hurt a thing. The veins on the stator look good to as does the surface of the inside of the pump. I do plan on getting a solas 16/20 impeller soon.. hoping to see a big difference there.

    Oh well, I'll try the silicone again, and I'll take my screwdriver with me just in case.

    Jared

  6. #6
    btldigger's Avatar
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    I would pull the plate and reseal it that is usually where the cavitation comes from or too much clearance between the wear ring and impeller. You may be able to pull out a shim or two. I did some back to bake testing with a solas and a modded stock the solas was only 1/10th mph faster. Skiworx did the stocker the solas came from impros both were shimmed to .005.

  7. #7
    jcc011185's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by btldigger View Post
    I would pull the plate and reseal it that is usually where the cavitation comes from or too much clearance between the wear ring and impeller. You may be able to pull out a shim or two. I did some back to bake testing with a solas and a modded stock the solas was only 1/10th mph faster. Skiworx did the stocker the solas came from impros both were shimmed to .005.
    I'm not really that into self modding yet.. so when I hear people talking about shims with the ultra, I really don't know what they mean. I just for now siliconed around the ride plate, and I filled in the mount holes and in between the ride plate and the grate and around the front of the grate. Hopefully I won't have a repeat of what happened before, I don't see how silicone around the ride plate can cause cavitation? I never understood why that happened.

  8. #8
    btldigger's Avatar
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    If the ride plate isnt sealed it can draw air into the front side of the pump. This would usually happen arround the eyeglass seal. The rest is to just make things as smothe as possible. The 250x guys had alot of trouble with this especially with excess silacone in the throat of the intake. The 150 uses shimms to set the impeller to wear ring clearance they are between the 2 halves of the pump case. They look like metal gaskets you may be able to remove 1 or more. You want as little clearance as possible without the impeller contacting the wear ring. I have a stock grate that I will try to mark later and take a pic of where to cut it and a better explanation of what to do to it. That is the best for flat water if you ride in the rough alot then the aftermarkets are better but they will scrub off some topend speed.

  9. #9
    jcc011185's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by btldigger View Post
    If the ride plate isnt sealed it can draw air into the front side of the pump. This would usually happen arround the eyeglass seal. The rest is to just make things as smothe as possible. The 250x guys had alot of trouble with this especially with excess silacone in the throat of the intake. The 150 uses shimms to set the impeller to wear ring clearance they are between the 2 halves of the pump case. They look like metal gaskets you may be able to remove 1 or more. You want as little clearance as possible without the impeller contacting the wear ring. I have a stock grate that I will try to mark later and take a pic of where to cut it and a better explanation of what to do to it. That is the best for flat water if you ride in the rough alot then the aftermarkets are better but they will scrub off some topend speed.
    What's the eyeglass seal? I didn't get a chance to test it yet.. me and some friends rode up to the mountains and I'm just getting back in. It has a full tank of gas and ready to go out tommorrow though at which time I'll post my results. I think I will end up having to remove the plate and re-seal, because last time I did around the edges, it certainly cavitated ALOT. I feel it's going to do the same thing tommorrow. So, since I have silicone filling in the bolt holes, what's the best way to remove it so I can have good access to the allen head screws that I have to remove to take off the ride plate?

  10. #10
    btldigger's Avatar
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    The eyeglass seal is the rubber seal between the pump shoe and ride plate it looks kinde of like a pair of glasses hence the name. It is what those 2 holes going through the rideplate pass through. A knife is probably good as any to get that silacone out of the holes a razor blade works on the rest clean up with alcohol or acetone to remove any grease or oil before sealing it.

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