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Thread: New Machine!

  1. #1

    New Machine!

    I recently picked up a 1996 SL 780 that was suppose to have a bad stator, but with great compression (150# across 3). I got home and Ohmed everything, and it was spot on. Checked for spark, and it was there too. Put a little gas in the carbs, and it fired right up. So I have 2 questions that I could not find answers for by searching.
    1- Have the old stators been intermitant at times before dying, or do they just go? Seller swore he had a no-spark condition that he tested as a dead stator.

    2-If I plumb in a brass fitting opposite of the temp sender, can I use the garden hose to run machine in driveway? It currently has a large brass plug in there now.

    thanks!


  2. #2
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    I can't remember the last time I replaced a stator on a Fuji engine b ut it certainly doesn't happen very often. I say ride it and take a tow rope with you.

    That plug IS there for the water flush kit.

  3. #3
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    WELCOME to the Green Hulk Forums!!!!

  4. #4
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Yeah, welcome to the Hulk. Like he said ^^^^ run it. Just double check the ground wire and battery cables are tight. And you can get a flush kit for that brass plug for around $12 or so. Just don't rev the engine out of water. And always turn the water on after the engine is started, and off before you stop the engine. Otherwise water intrusion may happen and cause MAJOR engine problems. Also 150# of compression are high compression heads you have. Make sure to use 92 octane or better gas when fueling up. Good luck and enjoy your new ride. PS: since you searched the site, do you know of the recommended maintainence that should be done to the fuel system?

  5. #5
    axgrider73's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Green Hulk Forums!!

    I would guess that your stator os fine. It is rare that a stator goes bad on a Fuji engine. It is the Domestics that have the stator issue.

    Yes, you can put a flush fitting in place of the plug on the water rail to run the ski on the hose.

    WARNING: Make sure to start the engine BEFORE turning on the water and turn the water off before stopping the enigine.

  6. #6
    Water Bum Rodneyae's Avatar
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    Welcome to the HULK. The stators normaly dosen't give you any trouble. When it goes it goes. Mine left me stranded in the middle of the lake on a cold day in March. NOT HAPPY that day. You bought a great machine, just keep on the normal maintance any you will have lots of fun!!!!

  7. #7
    thank you guys so much for the replies! I just got back from the first ride. Did not go very far from the launch at first, as its about 60 degrees in MN today, and there is nobody on lake, but it seemed to start and run fine. Once I got a little braver, I went out with it, and the first half of the throttle range brought it quickly up to 40mph and about 6500 rpm. After that, nothing more from half to WOT. I will say that I neglected to change old plugs when I put it in. Could that have caused it, or should I just summarily tear off the carbs and give them a good cleaning as well.
    This could be the best $700 I have spent in a while! Thanks again for answers!

    Xlint: I did come across many comments about the fuel and oil system. If I took it all in right, I need to replace all lines, and possibly rebuild both fuel and oil pump as preventative maintenance. Also, what is the Pop-off test I have read about? Are the needle valves spring loaded, as opposed to a float?
    Last edited by drolds; 09-09-2007 at 02:11 PM.

  8. #8
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    flush

    you can run it for about 5 minutes tops on the hose after that the driveshaft will get too hot and gall the carrier seal bearing assm.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by TxPro1200 View Post
    you can run it for about 5 minutes tops on the hose after that the driveshaft will get too hot and gall the carrier seal bearing assm.
    +1 on that. After you mentioned that in another thread I checked it out while running it on the trailer. That carrier bearing was packed with fresh marine grease, and after only about two minutes or so that thing was way too warm to leave your hand on it. I suppose the water on one end is enough to keep it cool.

  10. #10
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drolds View Post
    Xlint: I did come across many comments about the fuel and oil system. If I took it all in right, I need to replace all lines, and possibly rebuild both fuel and oil pump as preventative maintenance. Also, what is the Pop-off test I have read about? Are the needle valves spring loaded, as opposed to a float?
    Correct, replace all fuel lines. Double check to make sure there is no restrictor in the return line going from the carbs to the gas tank. If there is, then you MUST reinstall it. It's usually around 1/2 to 1" past the carbs. I doubt you'll need to rebuild the fuel pump, but it's something to look into. DO NOT replace it, that is a high output triple pump already. There is no way to rebuild the oil pump. You can either run the current one, but a new one, or go with a block off plate and run premix at 40:1. If you keep the current pump, please replace those lines too. The needle/seat valves are spring loaded. And the pop off test measures when the psi "pops" the needle off the seat. I'm glad you're making yourself familiar with this site and your ski. The most obvious thing you should have read is to rebuid, or at the very least, clean your carbs thoroughly. Writing down your carb screw settings before you do any disassembling so you can put them back.

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