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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Grove, OK
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    13

    Drowned Polaris ressurrection.....

    Background:

    I have just purchased a 1994 Polaris SL 750. This machine was submerged three years ago and was not started since.

    I bought this without ever seeing it but in my opinion the price vs. risk of what I’m getting into was acceptable.

    The good news! The reason for the ship sinking was found to be the plug in the back was not installed. No gaping hole in the hull!

    I’ve worked on and maintained many two stroke MX bikes over the years so how hard could it be to get into a two stroke watercraft? It’s proving to be quite a challenge to get this dead patient resurrected. But a rewarding challenge at that.

    What I’ve done so far:

    Replaced the battery. Bought a good charger for starting also and hooked it up.

    Removed the spark plugs. Cycled the motor after adding a mix of Marvel Mystery Oil and diesel fuel down the throats of the carburetors and in the plug holes. Observed fountain of brown crap coming out of the spark plug holes. Repeated and repeated endlessly. Crap kept coming out.

    Tried to drain the crankcase to get the water sludge out but very little liquid came out of the vent barb on what appears to be the lowest point of the case. The additional diesel fuel added did not appear to be draining to this hole.

    Siphoned all the gas out and replaced it with fresh regular. Removed the plugged pipe on what appears to be the “end” of the fuel rail and cycled the motor to pump until fresh gas or rather just some gas drained from the connection in a bucket….maybe a liter.

    Siphoned all that would come out of the two stroke oil tank and replaced with fresh Pure Polaris Synthetic Blend. I use a Castrol synthetic in my MX bikes but decided to stick with the dealer recommended brand. I don’t need to add variables at this time.

    I took the risk up until this point that this motor is probably a goner but that doesn’t mean that it could not be brought back to life again.

    A compression tester indicated some very high and fluctuating readings but that was attributed to all the liquid still being spewed out.

    Next I flushed the motor again by now pouring premix gas down the carbs and into the plug holes. More fountains…..smoking was done a considerable distance away….

    Let’s put the old plugs back in….I have new ones but lets flood the old ones with this brew of Marvin, Diesel, Lake, Fresh premix for the MX bikes and fuel from the tank if any is actually coming through. Keep in mind that so far the throttle has been zip tied wide open.

    The big electrical box was opened by the previous owner and was dry……a good thing.

    It fired after about 3 short bursts of starting. Smoked like hell. I screamed out in joy! EEEha. Gently trying to modulate a little throttle but it soon died. It can run!

    Hooked it up to the back of my truck and went to my buddy’s house and stuck the trailer in the lake. Repeated the same priming with premix in the plug holes and she started again. I was uncomfortable with the amount of thrust it produced…trying to push my Titan out of the lake...heck; I don’t even have all the water out of the motor and certainly do not want to load it up yet. Took it back home and studied more of your threads.

    How do I hook up water to this thing so I can run it with no load on land and see what happens? Someone in the threads referred to a “back-flush kit.” According to the local dealer it is no longer available but all I need to do is hook a water supply up to the plug opposite the sensor on the water manifold. He cautioned me to make sure I start the motor first before turning on the water and shut it off first too before the motor. I don’t comprehend how water would get into the crankcase and cause a hydraulic lock….the water should not get in the crank period but I will follow his advice….and I’m passing this on….is the garden hose pressure of 3 Bar too great maybe…..it should flow through the outlet right and never reach line pressure?

    In the threads there are several references to burning a hole in a piston. This recalls my ownership of a twin Yamaha 180cc that had a habit of this. A real bad habit. It would scream at full throttle and haul ass…Until it burnt a hole in one of the pistons…Would still run…….barely. A different country……many years ago……I would carry a spare piston and rings and change it roadside numerous times. Until I got a little smarter and studied the reason for burning a hole in the piston. This thing was sucking air through a base gasket.

    This is what I’ve learned so far:

    Please feel free to comment on my interpretations.

    In order to burn a hole in a piston, you need a lot of temperature…..or heat.
    In the combustion chamber, we can significantly increase the temperature by adding more oxygen. This is easily compared by looking at the flame of pure acetylene gas and then adding oxygen to the mix. (A cutting torch….I’m old school…You probably only know a plasma cutter…kind of the same theory…not really)

    The ratio of fuel vs. air is what is creating a lean, optimum or rich condition. Leaner is hotter. Adding air or fuel starvation would create a lean condition.

    I do not want to burn a hole in one of my pistons. The threads indicate that this happens with my motor.

    I bought three diaphragms for the carbs and plan to replace them before going any further. The dealer informed me that the removal is challenging and necessary to prevent this from happening. Three diaphragms at $40 bucks a piece and that’s where I’m going next.

    Looks like a pain in the rear to get these carb’s off?

    BTW, Don’t ever think that you are doing a rebuilt 2-stroke motor a favor by adding an extra splash of oil to the premix, you are creating a lean condition by changing the fuel to air ratio leaner and therefore it will smoke but run hotter….stick to the proper mixture for break in.

    Any advice or comments are welcome.













  2. #2
    100 MILES OF HEAVEN AND I AM SMACK IN THE MIDDLE KEYZBUM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    JUST NORTH OF CUBA-- FL,KEYS
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    SWEET

    All I Can Say Is Nice Score
    Other Real "helpers" Will Be Along Shortly Will A Nice "HOW TO FIX LIST"!!!!
    My Only Advice Right Now Is Take 20 Bucks And Buy Some Lotto Tickets----take Advantage Of That Sweet Luck You Got Running
    Congrats Again
    Mattman

  3. #3
    seaobin's Avatar
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    Jun 2007
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    Raleigh, North Carolina, United States
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    Wow, what a tome. We are just jet ski jocks, and we like pics.

    Sounds like to are on the path,

    What I have learned in the Carbs are easy, 12 Mm short open end/ closed end wrench, six bolts on the underside of the carbs.

    Read the posts on cleaning carbs and do it twice.

    Get a block off plate, and remove the oil injection

    triple fuel pump, new fuel lines

    Clean carbs again

    make it rich until you are sure

    PLUG CHOPS, PLUG CHOPS, PLUG CHOPS

    Just kidding, but you understand..; Fuel delivery is the vital link

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Grove, OK
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    13
    Here’s my baby! Yeah she looks like only her mother could love her but I do. She has a fire in heart that inspires me.

    I'm new to this and not sure if the attachment worked....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #5
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Aug 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Watercamel View Post
    Background:

    I have just purchased a 1994 Polaris SL 750. This machine was submerged three years ago and was not started since.

    I bought this without ever seeing it but in my opinion the price vs. risk of what I’m getting into was acceptable.

    The good news! The reason for the ship sinking was found to be the plug in the back was not installed. No gaping hole in the hull!

    I’ve worked on and maintained many two stroke MX bikes over the years so how hard could it be to get into a two stroke watercraft? It’s proving to be quite a challenge to get this dead patient resurrected. But a rewarding challenge at that.

    What I’ve done so far:

    Replaced the battery. Bought a good charger for starting also and hooked it up.

    Removed the spark plugs. Cycled the motor after adding a mix of Marvel Mystery Oil and diesel fuel down the throats of the carburetors and in the plug holes. Observed fountain of brown crap coming out of the spark plug holes. Repeated and repeated endlessly. Crap kept coming out.

    Tried to drain the crankcase to get the water sludge out but very little liquid came out of the vent barb on what appears to be the lowest point of the case. The additional diesel fuel added did not appear to be draining to this hole. There are three drain bolts low on the crankcase under the exhaust.

    Siphoned all the gas out and replaced it with fresh regular. Removed the plugged pipe on what appears to be the “end” of the fuel rail and cycled the motor to pump until fresh gas or rather just some gas drained from the connection in a bucket….maybe a liter.

    Siphoned all that would come out of the two stroke oil tank and replaced with fresh Pure Polaris Synthetic Blend. I use a Castrol synthetic in my MX bikes but decided to stick with the dealer recommended brand. I don’t need to add variables at this time.

    I took the risk up until this point that this motor is probably a goner but that doesn’t mean that it could not be brought back to life again.

    A compression tester indicated some very high and fluctuating readings but that was attributed to all the liquid still being spewed out.

    Next I flushed the motor again by now pouring premix gas down the carbs and into the plug holes. More fountains…..smoking was done a considerable distance away….

    Let’s put the old plugs back in….I have new ones but lets flood the old ones with this brew of Marvin, Diesel, Lake, Fresh premix for the MX bikes and fuel from the tank if any is actually coming through. Keep in mind that so far the throttle has been zip tied wide open.

    The big electrical box was opened by the previous owner and was dry……a good thing.

    It fired after about 3 short bursts of starting. Smoked like hell. I screamed out in joy! EEEha. Gently trying to modulate a little throttle but it soon died. It can run!

    Hooked it up to the back of my truck and went to my buddy’s house and stuck the trailer in the lake. Repeated the same priming with premix in the plug holes and she started again. I was uncomfortable with the amount of thrust it produced…trying to push my Titan out of the lake...heck; I don’t even have all the water out of the motor and certainly do not want to load it up yet. Took it back home and studied more of your threads.

    How do I hook up water to this thing so I can run it with no load on land and see what happens? Someone in the threads referred to a “back-flush kit.” According to the local dealer it is no longer available but all I need to do is hook a water supply up to the plug opposite the sensor on the water manifold. He cautioned me to make sure I start the motor first before turning on the water and shut it off first too before the motor. I don’t comprehend how water would get into the crankcase and cause a hydraulic lock….the water should not get in the crank period but I will follow his advice….and I’m passing this on….is the garden hose pressure of 3 Bar too great maybe…..it should flow through the outlet right and never reach line pressure? Yes you hook the flush fitting to the cooling rail. The water flows thru the exhaust to cool it and fills the water box. If the motor is not runing the water will collect in the box and back up the manifold and into the cylinders..

    In the threads there are several references to burning a hole in a piston. This recalls my ownership of a twin Yamaha 180cc that had a habit of this. A real bad habit. It would scream at full throttle and haul ass…Until it burnt a hole in one of the pistons…Would still run…….barely. A different country……many years ago……I would carry a spare piston and rings and change it roadside numerous times. Until I got a little smarter and studied the reason for burning a hole in the piston. This thing was sucking air through a base gasket. Yes Lean = Heat = Melted aluminum.

    This is what I’ve learned so far:

    Please feel free to comment on my interpretations.

    In order to burn a hole in a piston, you need a lot of temperature…..or heat.
    In the combustion chamber, we can significantly increase the temperature by adding more oxygen. This is easily compared by looking at the flame of pure acetylene gas and then adding oxygen to the mix. (A cutting torch….I’m old school…You probably only know a plasma cutter…kind of the same theory…not really)

    The ratio of fuel vs. air is what is creating a lean, optimum or rich condition. Leaner is hotter. Adding air or fuel starvation would create a lean condition.

    I do not want to burn a hole in one of my pistons. The threads indicate that this happens with my motor.

    I bought three diaphragms for the carbs and plan to replace them before going any further. The dealer informed me that the removal is challenging and necessary to prevent this from happening. Three diaphragms at $40 bucks a piece and that’s where I’m going next.

    Looks like a pain in the rear to get these carb’s off? After the carbs are off do yourself a favor and remove the manifold and reeds and inspect the crankshaft. I have a feeling that it will not last the first trip to the lake.

    BTW, Don’t ever think that you are doing a rebuilt 2-stroke motor a favor by adding an extra splash of oil to the premix, you are creating a lean condition by changing the fuel to air ratio leaner and therefore it will smoke but run hotter….stick to the proper mixture for break in.

    Any advice or comments are welcome.













    Good luck

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Grove, OK
    Posts
    13
    Thanks, I think I am past the point of draining the motor...since it fired.

    I will head the water to be turned on warning and accept it.

    I'll inspect the reed valves....make sure they don't stick and close fully....another possible lean condition.

    It's not good news to hear about "I have a feeling that it will not last the first trip to the lake."

    I know it's taken out of context but what exactly should I be concerned about? Any preventive measures? The crankshaft....reeds?

  7. #7
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    The crackshaft and bearings are made of a ferrous material that likes to rust. With the reeds removed you can get a good look at the crank.

  8. #8
    Wankel till I die!! jonjonwells's Avatar
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    Apr 2007
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    SE Kansas
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    Holy Crap, a SL on Grand.... prepare for LOTS of airtime.

    After sitting for that leangth of time I would definately do a complete rebuild of the carbs.

    Would definately do as Beer stated, Remove the reeds and check your crank. You probably have alot of rust and possibly a bad bearing, if it has had water sitting in the case for 3 years. I have found that a little hand held mirror comes in handy when removing carbs.

  9. #9
    seaobin's Avatar
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    I think what he meant was Steel sitting in water, rusts.
    My engine was full of water and the crank was thrashed. All of the bearings were gone. The engine spun and sounded fine, but it would not have lasted the first hour.

    Sean

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Grove, OK
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    13
    I've flooded it with lubrication and hope that flushes out most of the debris and burn the rest off....maybe with a little increase in tolerances but still within an operable spec.... we can hope.

    Rusted bearings are never good but I can hope that it may survive with proper lubrication at least till I get to ride a few times….

    Hey, I'll keep ya'll posted and if I have to rebuild the engine, so be it.

    Maybe I should sell it once it fires next......and buy a newer one, that was not drowned.....I feel like I'm pot comitted now after buying those carb diapraghms........

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